Escorto. Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 yep. its all g mate. appreciate the interest/help. i may have to go back to the og dizzy yet. but i changed my plug leads to hei ends or maybe get one of these. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Ford/Electrics/auction-335807528.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 Thats a pro-comp dizzy too... Just the non HEI version.. Theres a reason why they are sub$150 brand new and a proper MSD one costs $600.. fuck that sounds like snobbery.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escorto. Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 i havent seen any msd ones on trademe. also can you tell why pro-comp dizzys are shyt but they are a leading 4wd parts manufacturer in aus? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 Same reason Repco sell cheap ass fishing rods? To make a profit I guess. Only going on my experience and what I have read not saying its a hard and fast fact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Nice car, I wouldn't use the D.P carb, sounds to me like your V.S has a burst power valve from a backfire. Also sounds like the accelerator pump linkage has free play or the little ball bearing has been left out of the vacum port for the secondary diaphram. If your worried about the CFM try a stiffer spring in the secondary diaphram. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escorto. Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Thanks, i should have said, it hasnt suddenly started running rich. ive been told it over carbed by quite abit. which makes air tumble and low end torque suffers. thats why i thought id put the 600 DP on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leebo3 Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 A guy here told me the opposite, said 351C are pretty heavy breathers and usually a 750 would be sweet, but if you already have the 600 lying round maybe just throw it on and try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Hey hows your car going? I just read through the things above. I think small block Ford is the same C and W. Ford changed the winsor firing order around the release of 5.0 mustang, I think it is refered to as "mod" in the MSD instructions above. If you get stuck look for a factory Cleveland electronic distributor, they work very well and are very relyable. With your carb I would stick with your 750 vs. just come down a jet size or two, check which power valve you have, it might be opening to early. I have a 780vs on my mild-warm 383 and its great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 A 750VS is plenty fine and no way over carburettoring a 351.. its what you throw on most 350 and above motors - 600DP is OMG factor the DP factor will just DESTROY your wallet around town driving but providing its jetted correctly then it will wake your whole car up to 5000rpmish - although in the higher revs it'll be stretching to flow enough air.. FYI - a 351 operating about 80% efficency will suck 650cfm at 6500rpm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 Did you perform the compression test "properly" I'll find my instructions I set for a proper compression test. Please Hold Caller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 Here you go. My technique for compression test is this. 1 - Get engine up to operating temp 2 - Crack off spark plugs a quarter turn each (to loosen any carbon deposits around the spark plug threads) 3 - Run engine for 30 seconds at around 2-3000rpm (to burn off any carbon deposits from stage 2 so they don't get stuck under a valve) 4 - Remove the plugs 5 - Disconnect the distributor to eliminate the spark 6 - Jam the throttle wide open (have someone sit in the car or put a brick on the gas) and make sure the throttle stays WOT until the entire test is complete (opening and closing the throttle between compression checks causes bore wash and can alter the compression from first to last) 7 - Start on number 1 and thread the compression tester in till it is firmly seated 8 - Crank Engine over so the engine turns over 20 times (10 compression strokes) 9 - Write down the result from the gauge (generally between 100-180psi) for each cylinder 10 - Back to stage 7 but move to next cylinder and continue 11 - Compressions shouldn't alter more than 10% between worst and last (up to 20% at most) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escorto. Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 Tomorrows job I think, Cheers K-trips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrota Posted October 27, 2012 Share Posted October 27, 2012 Nice falcon man. I have a 750d/p on my 351... Was told it was overcarbed etc but I have it running mint but my wallet is really suffering.... Im selling it and have just bought a new 670cfm street avenger carby. Also looking at trying a 750 v/s carby. Just get it tuned up properly and should go sweet as! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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