efp0wa Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 I had recently changed head gasket, water pump and belts on my L300. It's overheated again...*sigh*. What do I do with it? Any ideas? Realistically.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 blocked radiator? is the fan working efficiently? is it showing signs of a blown head gasket again? if so it could be a cracked head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efp0wa Posted January 19, 2010 Author Share Posted January 19, 2010 Not sure yet. Will check it out. You don't happen to have a head you could send me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 nah I don't sorry, well I do but it has an ugly weld in it and I probably wouldn't trust it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 yea check the radiator first and pray thats it Did you get the head tested and skimed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efp0wa Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 Ok, I refilled the radiator and attempted to start her up. I did not put the radiator cap on, and when turning the motor over water/coolant was being propelled out somehow. Like it was under pressure.... What the fuc*...? Cracked head or block i'm assuming??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 the water pump would do that as it's trying to pressurise the system. If you see noticible bubbles or steam/exhaust gasses coming out of the radiator then you have a blown head gasket/cracked head. You can get a tester called a T-K (or was it Tee-Kay?) which is pretty much litmus paper and it detects CO2 in the cooling system which tells you if it has a blown head gasket or not. You may have replaced the head gasket to fix the head gasket but did you fix the cause of the blown head gasket? They don't usually blow by themselves without being overheated first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efp0wa Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 I was being cheap, and being cheap = skipping major things. I didn't get the head crack tested. I did check to ensure it was straight though, and it was. I have never had a block crack tested.... I see a brand new 4g63 head on trademe for $400, is it worth it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Well you don't even know if its the head cracked yet! Blocks don't generally crack, well not 4G63s anyway. You could put in a brand new motor and it would still overheat if it has a poor radiator. Just because you can stick the hose in it and water flows out the other end doesn't mean the radiator isn't blocked. Take the radiator out and take it to a pro to be cleaned, they take the end tanks off and put rods down the tubes to clear them out and braze the tanks back on and its almost brand new. Costs about $100 or so to do. But before you do that get a t-k test and check if it has a blown head gasket or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efp0wa Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 Im fairly sure the head gasket has blown. Where do i get a k-t test? I havnt had much luck in Nelson.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 I know repco/appco sells it, in a black bottle looking thing. For all we know this 2nd time the head gasket blew is caused by why it blew the first time.. honestly FIND OUT what is causing the head gasket to blow before you go about repairing it.. as it's just going to blow again, or worst your new motor will suffer the same fate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0ss4yy Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 take the head off after k-t test See if you have coroded water jackets or cracking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 you can hardly ever see cracks in a cracked head, on 4G63s its usually under the cam cradle between the spark plug thread and one of the valves, even more prone to happening on an MCA-jet head. Usually you drop them in a pressure tank overnight with dye to show up cracks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0ss4yy Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 there's this shit you can buy, cant remember the name of it, but you spray it on the head, and its a red spray, and you can see cracks really easily Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0ss4yy Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Tis called Magnaflux Spotcheck.. Comes in a very thick pen, with 2 parts, 1 a cleaner, 2 a developer.. Probably does the same as pressure tank full of dye, case thats all it really is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyfive Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Wait wait. When you turned it over, as in- Cranked the engine, water was propelled out? If so, Yeeeaaah Boooiiii. Its fucked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Requiemk Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 It overheated again and now you have really fucked your head most likely. check thermostat operation block is straight radiator (might be possible to look down radiator filler and see blocked tubes) waterpump impeller fucked fan radiator cap may also be at fault Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efp0wa Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 Yes, took rad cap off and turned her over with radiator full. Water/antifreeze shoots out of radiator during cranking, as soon as I put the rad cap back on and crank her over all of the water from the radiator gets forces into the overflow bottle and out the drain tube when i'm cranking her over. I aware that I need the find the solution as to why she overheated in the first place. What steps should I take exactly (have written a plan up below), sound ok? I have taken all into account what you guys are saying regarding to find out why it overheated in the first place. • Compression test motor. • K-T test motor (seems like a waste buying the test as I’m very positive the H/G is blown). • Perform leak down test on motor. (don't have a leak down tester at home, not sure if I need to do this. But i'm worried air is getting in from somewhere) • Rectify any leaks • Remove radiator and get professionally cleaned. • Remove required components to check water pump. • Remove and test thermostat. • Remove required components to remove head. • Purchase recond head from caboonatlarge “$200. rebuilt head, been cheaked and cleaned up, planed, new valve guide seals, head gasket set and even had the valve clearance done” • Install recond head and all other components. • Finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 find out if caboon's head has been skimmed and if so how much by, it has been skimmed quite a bit and you put that head on an already tired bottom end no doubt you'll be asking in a few weeks/months time why the big end bearings are starting to knock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efp0wa Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 find out if caboon's head has been skimmed and if so how much by, it has been skimmed quite a bit and you put that head on an already tired bottom end no doubt you'll be asking in a few weeks/months time why the big end bearings are starting to knock. Have txt him. How does it cause big end bearing damage by using a skimmed head? I've had heads skimmed on old L20ETs and never had a problem with bearings... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.