Popular Post Mr.Mk1 Posted May 13, 2017 Popular Post Posted May 13, 2017 Folder showed up, one of those save barn special on trademe. Goes good for what it is. More again tomorrow 15 Quote
Popular Post Mr.Mk1 Posted May 14, 2017 Popular Post Posted May 14, 2017 I really hope the other side is better 24 Quote
Mr.Mk1 Posted May 20, 2017 Posted May 20, 2017 It seemed like a scratchy day and I didn't achieve as much as previous days but it all counts. Seam sealed where needed and threw the door back on, couple of patches where the guard bolts on Going to be a laugh making this cunt again! HAZAH! Moved the car across and Got the drivers guard off and the sill is far far better! Guard it's-self not as bad as passengers but the brace and bottom is still cooned 8 Quote
Mr.Mk1 Posted May 27, 2017 Posted May 27, 2017 Had to work this morning so only half day on this: this cheeky wee shit was a recipe for wet carpet, right behind the wheel then I spotted this wheelarch becoming the engine bay 7 Quote
Popular Post Mr.Mk1 Posted May 28, 2017 Popular Post Posted May 28, 2017 Fuuuuuck. Was hopeful to smash it today but the more I dug the more was missing. Thats the firewall, so had go slow so as not to burn it with fire. while I was waiting for the rust converter to dry inside the sill I cut open the outer C pillar and the inner between drip rail and door shut. Not good news. Also hung the door back on without any issues, Stoked it even closes! wire wheeled, rust killed and etched the upper wheel arch where the guard bolts on. Soaked the captive nut clips in acid then converter ready to go back onto the area just etched 17 Quote
Popular Post Mr.Mk1 Posted June 3, 2017 Popular Post Posted June 3, 2017 I didn't get a decent pic but the piece beside the new patch directly above was cut out, but was actually fine underneath so I cleaned it up, rust killed and welded back in. i did other life stuff this morning so only a few hours this afternoon. More tomorrow and Monday 10 Quote
Popular Post Mr.Mk1 Posted June 5, 2017 Popular Post Posted June 5, 2017 Then I was doing a patch in the sill and RAN OUT OF GAS. Fucking rage. So I was left to make all the rest of the body patches and rust kill and seal seams. While feeding rust converter all around through a hole, the brush posed no resistance.. FUUUUUUCK. Most akward placement. like an archaeological dig in the rear guard, that's about 4 inches of dirt. found a bulb. Luckily the rust hasn't eaten through the inner yet so took a good clean and rust kill. made patches for the bottom of the guard x2, outer C pillar x2, another 4 in wheel arch and the ugly one for the inner guard, coaxed the frame off the other front guard then gave up for the day. 19 Quote
Popular Post Mr.Mk1 Posted June 10, 2017 Popular Post Posted June 10, 2017 The body is done! Just need to put some sealer on the underside of wheel arches then move onto the front guards and bonnet. Have a donor bonnet that's good apart from one back corner so will slice it off the blue one. 36 Quote
Popular Post RUNAMUCK Posted October 15, 2023 Author Popular Post Posted October 15, 2023 So, i know a guy who makes things from aluminium. My radiator was getting a wee bit dozey in the fins. I pulled it out, and dropped it off to his house. This was the result. 11 Quote
Popular Post RUNAMUCK Posted January 14, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted January 14, 2024 I went to mums earlier, and had to see this poor old thing in the flesh again. thought id use this thread as a place to write my do do list of things that need doing. Three and a bit years, and ill be 50. Be nice to have it on the road before then. Cooling system flush. Despite the engine being rebuilt, some IHC left it sitting for ages with no corrosion inhibitor in it. Im going to refit the old radiator, pull the thermostat and flush everything with an as yet unknown agent. (Feel free to share your remedy of choice) I sure as hell dont want to be putting any of that crud in my flash new rad. Power steering box. Long ago, the box was rekitted, and modified to "firm feel" specs. (Basically US police care spec) Because valuent power steer is impossibly light. However something was put together wrong. And once i fitted the power steering pump, and had new hoses made, the wheel just cranked all the way to right, the instant the engine was started. Ive previously tried to adjust the valve (theres a sliding valve body used to find the centre of the two valve biases) but even at full travel this doesnt correct it. So the box needs to be removed, and sent back to dads for remedial surgery. Exhaust needs finishing. The pipes presently end at the diff. (Twin 2.5" pipes) the bloke who did the exhaust on my 620 ute (no thread for that sorry) recently build a whole new 2.5" Mandrel bend system for Dads SBM stroker hardtop. So in the interest of saving time, i swooped, and called dibbs on his old diff hoop pipes. Valiants are eye wateringly tight through here. (Even more so once the mandatory height reduction has been carried out) so these will be resused. (As its not an all out performance engine, being press bend rather than manrel wont matter a pinch of shit) my mate who did dads new pipes actually commented kudos to whoever bent that pipe, because its such a small place to fit through. Ill have to make a final determination after the pipes are finished, but i absolutely hate the way the mufflers sound. Theyre hedman turbo flow ones. Theres a high probability that these will be replaced with straight through ones. Trans cooler. I need to have a new treans cooletrmade to match with my new radiator. The bloke who made that said its no trouble at all to whip one up. Body work, In finding this thread, i had to look at all the rust repairs Josh did all over again. Fuck it was rusty bitch. Josh did an amazing job. When he finally told me to come take my car away, the only thing left is the bonnet, and the inside of the front guards. Ive got another bonnet which is repairable. I can buy new bottoms, but the rest will have to be crafted from scratch. So theres an update that isnt really an update. But i have this list to remind me. 31 Quote
Popular Post RUNAMUCK Posted March 12, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted March 12, 2024 Im still thinking about this once in a while. Tracked down a less fucked right front guard. It was up welles ways. @Goat kindly let me use his house as a freight forward depot. The seller dropped it off, and a mate who was passing by collected it the next day. Picked it up tonight. Defo needs a wee bit of work. But i can buy the inner and outer bottoms off the shelf from Automotive Panel Craft in Oz. Thanks to @Classicdat for lugging it south for me too! 23 Quote
Popular Post RUNAMUCK Posted April 20, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted April 20, 2024 Believe it or not i worked on this today. I went over to mums to sell a valiant diff to a rooster off marketplace. While i was there i set about refitting the copper radiator. With a view to giving the block a good flush before fitting the purdy new rad. I got that in. But decided there wasnt enough day left for the actual flush. (We spent ages digging through my pile of diffs, turns out i have three spare VG diffs) I went to start the old bitch up, cos i havent heard it run for ages. But the fuel pump didnt seem to be able to fill the fuel filter. So i gave up on that too. Ill take an electric pump over some time, and finish what i started today. Pic of the pile of diffs for thread. 23 1 2 Quote
Popular Post RUNAMUCK Posted May 4, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted May 4, 2024 Got the chance to fuck around with 5his wreck again today. Plumbed in an electric fuel pump. (It was a GMB unit for a subaru leone, bought from rock auto as a lift pump for my 620 ute) but it couldnt suck any gas through either. Like an utter fucktard, i inverted the pump polarity. (That did nothing, no buzz) So i switched it back. That now did nothing too. Then some smoke escaped from the pump. So a brand new pump that never even saw gas once is now destined for the bin. (Its very fortunate rock auto is so cheap) So i popped the gas cap, and jammed 120psi down the fuel supply line to the tank. It didnt really seem like it was pushing much. The old boy showed up, so he shot the air in while i listened at the fuel filler hole. Didnt sound like much. then a huge rush of air burst through. Obviously since it sat so long, the gas had turned to shit and blocked the line. So sooner or later the gas tank will need to come out for a de-scuzzing. So i reconnected the mechanical fuel pump, and cranked it over. The fuel filter quickly filled up, and it burst into life. (Sort of) ran a bit wooly. And wouldnt stay running on the main fuel circuit. 99% sure the old gas in the bowls has turned to varnish, and blocked the jets/capillaries. I dumped 2/3rd of a bottle of CRL into the radiator, and filled the rest up with water. Which involved another fuck around trying to get the hose working. (I took a bucket of miscellaneous hose fittings over with me) Using generous lashing of pedal pumping, i kept it running long enough warm it up. then drained the rad, and repeated a few times. Later i plucked the thermostat, and hosed the block out a few times. Eventually the stuff coming out looked clean. The old boy asked if i wanted him to clean the carb out for me. (Hes just build a 750 DP for his VF, and it piecing together another 650DP 5hat he got for free) since hes semi retired, i said yeah go on. (Im quite time poor) so i whipped it off and gave it to him. (The fuel that dribbled out the bowl vents onto the lawn to empty them was fucking putrid) (the colour of a dehydrated piss, and even more stanky) The manifold is an Edelbrock "street master". Which is a single plane open plenium. But its a design from the post oil shock '70s. (Apparently it won some award in its day) So despite being single plane, its got quite a small plenium volume. Somebody on a mopar forum filled with clever people reckoned they pull quite hard to 4000. This manifold also has the smaller ports to match with the 318 ports. (340 and 360 are bigger) im running a 390cfm 4bbl carb. The small carb means higher air speed. Which makes for really sharp bottom end response. (It should pair nicely with this manifold) the last engine this carb was one was quite punchy down low too. I strongly suspect that it will benefit from a carb spacer. As luck would have it, i picked up a carb spacer a while ago that will spice things up once i get the vehicle back on the road. This carb spacer is tunable up to 250hp. Although i suspect aiming that high would be a one way ticket to a sump full of piston fragments. Then focus shifted to my pile of diffs. Fairly sure the diff isnt an LSD. Since ive pulled apart so many Vals over the years, ive got a good collection. I had the idea in my head one of them was a 3.23:1 lsd. However after removing the back plates to check the ratio on four different VG valiant diffs, apparently none were fittes with that ratio. (And only one was an LSD) You can identify a bougie warner M75 LSD by the extra set of bolts which hold the halves of the nugget together. So after lugging heavy diffs about, and touching gear oil that was put in these diffs possibly before some of you were born, i shelved that persuit. Ive got an LSD nugget that i scored off @unlimitedpower a long ways back. (Reportedly scavanged from a EA-ish falcon) this will be pulled down, inspected, and set back up to the factory spec. (Way back when i first joined OS i bought a Factory VH valiant workshop manual of somebody on here. It has the specs these are supposed to be set up to) If I remember to take pictures, ill do a post when that gets done. So coupled with cutting the grass, i finished the day stinking of gear oil, and stale gas. (And because theres no proper hand cleaner at mums, i had to use cold water surf. (Well, the Pams equivalent) 24 Quote
Popular Post RUNAMUCK Posted August 3, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted August 3, 2024 Not a great deal has happened since the last update. The carb is still sittin waiting to be stripped and cleaned. But today i plucked the fuel tank. It actually came out a lot easier than i anticipated. After i removed it, i realised i had nothing to transfer the fuel into. (It smells nasty) im back around there tomorrow morning. So ill pour all the contents out (feels like about 15-20 litres) then see how grot the inside is. Hopefully i can just extricate the worm of congealed fuel that would have solidified in the pick up tube. Becuase the outside of the tank has a healthy layer of factory body sealer. The top side doesnt, but it appears to be zinc(?) Plated. I must have had the fuel tank out before. Because the hose clip where the line connects to the pick up tube isnt factory/is of the ilk of hoseclips ive used elsewhere on this build. Picture of the offending item. 10 Quote
RUNAMUCK Posted August 3, 2024 Author Posted August 3, 2024 Really not looking forward to removing the powersteer box either. Might trailer it to dads and use the hoist for that job. 1 Quote
RUNAMUCK Posted August 4, 2024 Author Posted August 4, 2024 On 03/08/2024 at 17:16, RUNAMUCK said: Hopefully i can just extricate the worm of congealed fuel that would have solidified in the pick up tube. Becuase the outside of the tank has a healthy layer of factory body sealer. The top side doesnt, but it appears to be zinc(?) Plated. I transfered the guzzoline into a fuel container, and shone a light inside the filler hole. Yeah, thats defo gonna need a proper clean out. The bloke who made my radiator (Earlier in the thread) works at a place than can clean fuel tanks. He did the one in her indoors CRX. (That was horrific inside) I also hate the fuel pick up too. The way its configured means the car "runs out of gas" with quite a bit of fuel still in the bottom of the tank. (No wonder theres such an accumulation of mud/scoat in the bottom) 6 1 Quote
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