Guest WESTCORT Posted August 31, 2008 Share Posted August 31, 2008 ok been trying to get my eski goin over the past few weeks and while ive been making a little progress its still not running properly. Originally i had it running a 32/36 with the ecs2 ignition module. this ran fine for the time i had it but when i snapped the accelerator cable bout 9 months ago i pulled the 32/36 and put a single 48mm dhla on it. After finally getting this to run, if i cleaned up the plugs and got it going it would run fine, but then would slowly start to run rough and then die. puzzled as to what it could be i put a timing light over the leads to see what the spark was doing. and as it turned out on plugs no 1 & 4 when it was at a constant speed the spark would be kind of intermittent, then if you put your foot on the gas the spark would dissapear and come back as soon as you lift your foot off the gas. Im only talking about a quick blip of the accelerator here. and it would only do it on 1 & 4. puzzled as to what it could be i thought it might be something to do with the vacuum running to the esc2 since the feed is from the side of the manifold now not the carby like on the 32/36. I bought a kit from the states to convert points dizzy to electronic and it is a little better but same problem, and now the tacho is not very steady and bounces around quite a bit. so i thought fuck it ill put the points back in and the tacho now bounces quite a bit around the actual rpm. And the car is running quite rough. what ive noticed is the tacho started bouncing around with the change from esc2 dizzy to the points dizzy. but what could it be? such a weird problem. and what could be making the spark on plugs 1 & 4 behave like this? when 2 and 3 are perfectly fine under all conditions? thinking of getting it driveable and taking it to a auto sparky.... but cant really afford this and im not ready to give up just yet. help much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excort Posted August 31, 2008 Share Posted August 31, 2008 hey mate im haveing the exact same problem i find if i get it warmed up and take 1 and 4 off 2 and 3 will run sweet and if i take 2 and 3 off 1 and 4 will run sweet im running the same ecu as you but with the electronic dizzy and ive had the same problem with 2 dif points dizzy's replaced the leads run a relay so the comp and coil are getting a mint feed the only thing left is the coil and ive just brought a msd blaster coil which im praying will fix my problem when you put a timeing light on your crank does the marks jump around abit ? as mine move acouple cm's back and forth ive thought maybe a fuel problem ? but if you can the spark doing that it has to be electrical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WESTCORT Posted August 31, 2008 Share Posted August 31, 2008 im running a gt40 bosch coil. I dont think its the coil thats the problem. as it seems weird that the coil can affect 2 plugs and not all 4, but ya never know. yea the timing marks move around a lil bit but thats been pretty standard with any engine ive had in the eski. What carb are you running? mine was running fine before i swapped to a sidedraft which made me think it was the vacuum hose to the esc2 that was causing problems. the electronic dizzy i was running didnt have the flickering tacho problem just this points dizzy that ive converted to electronic.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted August 31, 2008 Share Posted August 31, 2008 is it tuned? a fauled plug wont fire the light Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WESTCORT Posted August 31, 2008 Share Posted August 31, 2008 its doesnt have a perfect tune but its relativly good enough i would have thought? carby was rebuilt and jetted to suit by weber specialties but it was jetted off the car not on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 Is the firing order 1-2-4-3? Take a good look at the dizzy cap for signs of a crak or the rotor hitting the terminal posts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 Pintos run 1-3-4-2 don't they? Unlike Kent's with the dizzy in the other side of the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WESTCORT Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 yea its 1-3-4-2. firing order definatly 100% correct. just cant understand why it gives me trouble when my foot is on the gas and then works perfect as soon as i back off.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 I was not suggesting that you had the firing order wrong but you have now confirmed that the two cylinders that are behaving strangely are consecutive in the firing order. I don't know what a ECS2 is but if you suspect vacuum then disconect the vacuum advance line and re-test. I expect that if your plug leads located firmly and in good condition that you have a distributor problem. If all of the plugs gave you the same result I would also suggest checking rotor phasing and timing chain tension. Can you describe what the ECS2 does? Is it something that needs an even air gap to trigger the spark steadily? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WESTCORT Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 the esc2 was one of a few electronic ignition systems to come out in with the sierra. But i thought that originally was the problem so orderd a new ignition system from the states, which is what i put in next. just your basic hall effect sensor that replaced the points and condensor in your points dizzy. It has 1 wire to each side of the coil. And since i put that in (in the other dizzy i had) it still gives me the same weird no spark when i put my foot down but returns once i let it off, and intermittent spark when idling/at a constant speed. Its cylinder number 1 and 4 giving me the trouble, on opposite sides of the dizzy. so weird. And the flickering tacho came about once i put this other dizzy in.. the standard tacho doesnt flicker but ive got another gauge sitting in front of it that does. So im guessing its more sensitive but it was working fine before I changed the carby and all this came about.. Also after removing the vacuum hose it makes no difference... Is it something that needs an even air gap to trigger the spark steadily? Can you expand on this a bit? do you mean even air gap between magnet and hall effect sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forced Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 is it tuned? a fauled plug wont fire the light If your plugs are fouled due to running too rich then it will fire when your foot is off the gas better than when foot is on the gas because less voltage is required. When it misfires, the tach jumps, due to excessive back emf in the primary coil winding. It's like everything else, cause and effect. Fuel problems sometimes look like ignition problems. Have you checked the plugs again? 1 and 4 will be running off one choke, 2 and 3 off the other, maybe they're not jetted the same or a blocked air bleed or similar? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 . Its cylinder number 1 and 4 giving me the trouble.........................it was working fine before I changed the carby and all this came about..Also after removing the vacuum hose it makes no difference... Regards to the 1 & 4 giving you shit - I apologise. I could have sworn you said 2 & 4 when I first read the post.Forced has a good point re the mixture but I would also want to be certain that your new carb (and manifold?) are not giving you a more fundamental problem or providing an earth for a rubbing plug lead. Have you checked for a vacuum leak? You need a can of brakeclean to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slipsittin Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 I would go with Forced and Uncle Jake on this one. Vacume leaks can cause tachos to bounce for some reason. Never figured out why but a points dizzy will do it when the dwell angle is not right too. As Forced said just check the jet sizes incase someone was having an off day and installed the wrong one (or it was mispackaged), But start with the vacume leak first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sholdowa Posted September 4, 2008 Share Posted September 4, 2008 But start with the vacume leak first. If it's a vacuum leak, then the revs will *increase* when the throttle is closed - as the mixture will richen with the venturis shut and the air is only sucked in through the leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forced Posted September 4, 2008 Share Posted September 4, 2008 If it's a vacuum leak, then the revs will *increase* when the throttle is closed - as the mixture will richen with the venturis shut and the air is only sucked in through the leak. I think you mean "lean out" First step is always to check plugs. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slipsittin Posted September 4, 2008 Share Posted September 4, 2008 When it comes to side draughts vacume leaks don't always cause lean outs due to the emulsion tube arrangment it can cause the fuel delivery to increase. Plug fouling can be caused by leaning out also but in rear cases where the electrode temperature is increased past its limit. Corey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WESTCORT Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 seems cranking the points and a standard coil has solved tacho and missing issues. pretty sure it solved the disapearence of the missing spark too. so weird. gona get it fully goin with points then swap back to electronic when its back on the road. what kind of electronic ignition is everyone running with these motors and sidedrafts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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