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Help a Newbi - AW11 4AGZE rebuild.


rusty260z

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ZE crank is the same as all other 4age cranks from redtop onwards....

TRD only do head gaskets, not the head set. stock head gasket is good for plenty of boost, so you would only need the TRD one if you were after a small compression increase or mass boost.

new genuine gasket set is cheap and has everything in it bar injector o'rings.

stock headbolts are also upto the job, so you dont need ARP ones unless going extreme or will have the head off a few times. but i would go with ARP rodbolts.

but then again i dont know shit :lol:

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ZE crank is the same as all other 4age cranks from redtop onwards....

TRD only do head gaskets, not the head set. stock head gasket is good for plenty of boost, so you would only need the TRD one if you were after a small compression increase or mass boost.

new genuine gasket set is cheap and has everything in it bar injector o'rings.

stock headbolts are also upto the job, so you dont need ARP ones unless going extreme or will have the head off a few times. but i would go with ARP rodbolts.

but then again i dont know shit :lol:

have you ever herd of the saying do it right first time around

who honestly knows what this guy is intending to do with his bulid

why fuck arse around with factory head bolts if a month down the track hes going to turbo it with mass hp in mind?

anyway arp head bolts are really not much daerer than standard ones :wink: but hey i dont know jack

and yea apploiges i meant head gasket not head set

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sparkle wrote:

blah blah blah vaginal discharge

best ever discription[/code]

that was towards your stupid bitching.

sorry didnt see where i was bitching ?

you must have been mistaken

flawles if he wants to know something about 4agze's im sure hell pm me

id rather be doing that talking about it

some people have never atually done ....anything

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so to summarise,

1) Keep the standard rods are massive and the pistons

2) rod bolts weakest link so new ARP rod bolts (most important)

3) Big end bearings with race bearings

4) Freshen up head with valve job

5) possibly blue top cams

6) Value guides

7) new seals on the bottom end and head, valve stem seals etc.

8) new oil pump and water pump with all the new timing belts etc..

9) change the supercharger pullie's..

10) aftermarket computer or remap ECU for better revs & fuel

11) new head studs ( arp ) (might as well)

12) rings

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so to summarise,

1) Keep the standard rods are massive and the pistons

2) rod bolts weakest link so new ARP rod bolts (most important)

3) Big end bearings with race bearings

4) Freshen up head with valve job

5) possibly blue top cams

6) Value guides

7) new seals on the bottom end and head, valve stem seals etc.

8) new oil pump and water pump with all the new timing belts etc..

9) change the supercharger pullie's..

10) aftermarket computer or remap ECU for better revs & fuel

11) new head studs ( arp ) (might as well)

12) rings

1 ..yeap sounds choice

2..as above

3... TBH stock numbered toyota bearing are great ..generic bearigns are not as good (race just means there 3 layer) tolerance wise as teh genine nubers...or you can measure up and get soem trd's..the make toleranced bearings as well

4..3 or 5 angle is good (geat them to also do your valve clearances at the same time(they trim the vavle to reurn to orininal shim requirements)

5...we never got any better numbers on the dyno changing to bluetop cams

6..yeah headset is good

7..as above

8..yeah is good

9...what size do you want....ive made a few ....reguardless make sure they retain teh harmonic balancer

10...no rechip avalible....link is a good proven pakage...btu allow 2 grand for fititng buying and tune...if you cant do it yourself

11..there cheap enough to just do it

12...yeap...just chech ya bore size and ovality befor buying them incase you need to go up a piston size

gaskets etc aftermarket is good and cheap you can get a headset off trademe for liek 150 bucks and never had a issue with them

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9...what size do you want....ive made a few ....reguardless make sure they retain teh harmonic balancer

10...no rechip avalible....link is a good proven pakage...btu allow 2 grand for fititng buying and tune...if you cant do it yourself

9...what max size that can be used so that wouldnt have to change or move other external things i.e some belts etc, which i read somewhere has to be done in some cases. and to achieve gain without compromising relaibilty to much.

10. so have to use another package, the standard ecu can not be retuned or reprogramedat at all , if so ill have to save up for link before i start rebuld.

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you can use teh stock ecu on a 14 psi pully....

MAKE SIZE BIGGER PSI BHP MATERIAL MODS TO FIT

mm BY mm BOOST

STANDARD 150 - 8 145 STEEL NONE

HKS 160 +10 10 STEEL NONE

NEVO 164 +14 12 ALLOY NONE

BLITZ 165 +15 12 STEEL BEND TIMER POINTER 30 DEG

CUSCO 175 +25 14 STEEL NEW TIMER POINTER, BELT AND IDLER PULLEY

NEVO 175 +25 14 ALLOY NEW TIMER POINTER, BELT AND IDLER PULLEY

DIABOLIQUE RACING 176 +26 - - -

EL PROTOTYPES - - 16 - -

FENSPORT 176 +26 12/14 160 STEEL/ALLOY NEW TIMER POINTER, BELT AND IDLER PULLEY

NEVO 176 +26 12 ALLOY NEW TIMER POINTER, BELT AND IDLER PULLEY

http://www.mr2supercharger.com/SCpulleys.html

to give some perspective my 7afze one was 190mm....i think

and a fair bit of modding to get that to fit

http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=12011&highlight=

last little toy

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not forged in a comon sence with presure and force

the material is heated to a semisolid state and vibrated into a mold

kinda liek that perfect cornflour water mix

allows for materials with a higher silicon to be used so not as much expansion issues and more resistant to scuffing

not quite as strong as a proper forged piston ...but there right up there with them

as for strech bolts you measure there length to make sure they havent yielded

as long as a bolt hasent yieled there is no issue in useing it again

thats why you normally have a bolt length included in technical info

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