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xflow balancing and pistons.. and electronic dizzy


two_days_late

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Quoted $175 for bore and hone, plus $50 for acid dip at engine rebuilders,

and quoted $160 for boring and honing, plus he'll dip it free at chevelle.

He also said that they balance the whole engine together, everything from the front pully to the flywheel so to do a proper job it really needs to all be done at once. Said that'll be around $350 so i'll probably get that done once Allans checked out the motor and see's if the piston tops need to be machined to clear the new valves.

cheers

Matt

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Whoa $350 is a cheap balance.. But any balance is better than no balance.

Boring etc seems about the right price.

Coils.

The GT40r is the one that runs with a ballest resistor (this is prob what you'll run)

Ballest resistor just tells the coil when to run 12v direct feed rather than the 6v it usually runs. I.e 12v on cranking. Without it you will be trying to crank at 6v.

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Make sure that the crank and flywheel are balanced separately, and then as a unit, and then mark the orientation of the flywheel on the crank - or get it dowelled at the same time. Also, it's important that the rods aren't just balanced, but you need them to have the same centre of gravity - so weight needs to be taken off both ends...

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Coils.

The GT40r is the one that runs with a ballest resistor (this is prob what you'll run)

Ballest resistor just tells the coil when to run 12v direct feed rather than the 6v it usually runs. I.e 12v on cranking. Without it you will be trying to crank at 6v.

Thought they were for points ignition set ups?

Id hit something like a MEC717 and run a decent relay switched 12V supply.

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Make sure that the crank and flywheel are balanced separately, and then as a unit, and then mark the orientation of the flywheel on the crank - or get it dowelled at the same time. Also, it's important that the rods aren't just balanced, but you need them to have the same centre of gravity - so weight needs to be taken off both ends...

sweet, gonna get all that done once i find out if my pistons need to be machined so they dont hit the valves.

With the Coil, can i just put in a 12volt one then run the wire straight from the dizzy to the coil without the ballast resistor, or do i need to do something else? Where would you recomend getting one from?

Cheers guys,

Matt

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.

With the Coil, can i just put in a 12volt one then run the wire straight from the dizzy to the coil without the ballast resistor, or do i need to do something else? Where would you recomend getting one from?

Cheers guys,

Matt

Yeap think ya can but it puts extra load on all the switches etc and they wont last as long. Run the GT40r, it aint hard to setup. Can help if needed.

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That'd be good cheers bro, i wasn't too sure as i've seen coils advertised for use with electronic distributors so im not sure if you need one or its just better. In any case, i'd rather go with the best i can get.

The dizzy is a bosch one with a vac advance:

16zh9.jpg

On the instructions he sent with it (handwritten) it didn't mention changing the coil, but i'm gonna want to uprate it anyway.

Cheers

Matt

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yea i thought 2 hours was excessive to sit there, im sure that's what it said though.

It probably means that you shouldn't let it idle below 2000rpm for a good 2 hours running time even after you've run the cam in (when you're running it in/driving it just set the idle high)

Brad, I think it only glazes the bores if you have load on? + you don't have to hold it at 2k for 20 mins, just vary the speed from 2k - 2.5k with light revs etc

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With the Coil, can i just put in a 12volt one then run the wire straight from the dizzy to the coil without the ballast resistor, or do i need to do something else? Where would you recomend getting one from?

Cheers guys,

Matt

On the mk2 eskys the ballast resistor is the + wire going to the coil. run a new switched wire from your ignition (id relay it).

Also i have read and experienced a few times:

If you do use the stock ballasted supply, you will have harder starting and an intriguing misfire (with an electronic dizzy set up).

And yeah GT40 and GT40r's are for points dizzys!

Edit: If your still in town i can give you a hand to sort it out, its only 1/2 an hours work if that.

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Talked to a old guy today at the wreaker who has rallied and track raced many cars including lots of escorts. Was talking to him bout running cam in and he said to never do it on the spot. Said he has had around 4 in his time fuck out idling on spot and none when he just drives it at 2-2.5k.

Dunno how true etc

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Edit: If your still in town i can give you a hand to sort it out, its only 1/2 an hours work if that.

That'd be cool thanks man, problem is that the cars in complete bits at the moment, im just trying to get all the bits i need to get the engine built and wanna make sure i buy the right coil before i fork out the money. Could be really good for you to come take a look though.

Looks like im gonna have to do some more research on running the engine in too. The dizzys meant to be run at idle for 5 minutes to run it in... the cams meant to be a couple of hours over 2k... and god knows how long the engines meant to be run for :lol:

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Run the cam/engine in with a points dizzy then fit the electronic?

I know its not the proper way but with both my escort and subaru i ran them in by going through to Opitiki and back (Tauranga for the baru), never had any problems with either engine

And yeah im keen as to check out your esky bro! You can come check out my POS if you want to too lol

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Yea i was thinking along those lines too, already got a single downdraft weber so i don't have to stuff round tuning the carbs while trying to run it all in!

Sweet i'll chat to ya this weekend or something. Would be good to come check our yours, sounds like its a lot further along than mine haha.

Cheers

Matt

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