fuel Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 Hey guys, need advice here from anyone who can help. My old car (89 Galant with 4G37 SOHC carb engine) went for 408,000kms on the original fuel pump before it started leaking oil out of the weep hole. I replaced the pump with a new aftermarket pump just a couple weeks before Pete (retep130) bought the car. A couple weeks after he bought it, the new pump stopped pumping and it looks like it was because the arm wouldn't return down. We thought it could have just been a dud pump from the factory so Pete replaced it with another aftermarket pump from Repco (although they had the same part number). Six months has gone by and this replacement pump has also just given up the ghost like the first one! It looks to be the same fault too - the arm just isn't returning and is hard to move back. Does anyone know what could be causing this? The original pump went fine for 17 years and 408,000kms yet these new aftermarket pumps can't even last 6 months? Both pumps were installed correctly with #2 piston at TDC and rocker cover off and watching arm to make sure it sits on cam properly. Could there be anything else wrong with the head which could cause this? The head was reconditioned before but that was still 40,000kms before the pump was replaced. Any ideas would be great. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogre Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 sure its the right pump for that particular engine?I think john-o had a cunt of a time getting the right one for a 4g63. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 What's the deal with the weep hole? What leaks from it? Is it lubrication for the pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogre Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 oil leaks outa there from the head, i think its just from when they get warn out, im not to sure, mine leaked for like a year b4 i could be arsed doing anything/didnt do anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted May 24, 2007 Author Share Posted May 24, 2007 Yes definitely right pump. The first pump was from Supercheap, second pump was from Repco and they were both the same pump. The 4G3x only uses one pump anyway. I'm pretty sure 4G63 only has the one type pump too. And yeah there is a hole on the side of the pump, when the rubber diaphragm seal breaks oil and/or fuel will leak out. Originally it just leaked oil and created a mess but it still pumped fuel and didn't leak fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakamin Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 get an electric from repco (about $105 IIRC), pull the arm out of the latest broken one and use the old pump to fill the hole... We done that on a mates chevette and if ya hide the electric and run some dummy hoses to the mechanical one, no prick will even know... took 20 mins. edit: and if ya dummy the pump and the diaphragm is fucked, pull it out and replace it with some gasket paper/rubber/goo/whatever ya wanna use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogre Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 yeah use an electric one, thats what i did, way better and just get a blanking plate off some turbo 4g63 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 so anyway, already bought a new one But I took the dizzy out to install it and now it wont start, phil/fuel has already told me how to re install the dizzy and I did that to how he said. I put it to #1 tdc, then lined the hole in the cog up to the little raised up bit on the dizzy, inserted it and watched how much the rotor moved, then took it back out and moved it back one cog to compensate for the spin. Nothing at all, fuel is going squirt - squirt - squirt out of "into carb" pipe(using engine start too) and dribbling out of the fuel return and there is spark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 got the firing order right? also, I'd be inclined to mash a bit of oil around the seal before first run etc. could be dry when it goes in and semi splitting the seal? dunno.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 I just took the cap off and put it back on again, didnt undo any leads. And theres only one way it can go on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macabre Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 ive done a couple of those on the mitsis ive had over the years, just put electric one in then u can have secret fuel cut swtich too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted May 24, 2007 Author Share Posted May 24, 2007 caboon - turbo 4G63 blanking plate wont fit on a 4G37. cam - it's actual mechanical failure. The arm simply becomes hard to move and wont return into its position. If a diaphragm/seal split it would simply leak which it isn't doing. Pete - am still pretty sure the timing is out if it has fuel and spark. Did you set TDC on the crank pulley or cam pulley? If on the crank pulley cam could still be out 180 degrees (common cause). Don't forget to chuck a timing light on it once its running and set timing to 8~10 degrees BTDC, or less if it pinks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 ok, ended up being the old dead battery shananigin, was turning over but not enough power, runs all good now it would suck if you had no idea how cars worked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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