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rotary engine oil


filthy one

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stuff running in oil. just rock some decent 15w40 in there, mineral too, rotaries hate synthetic (carbon lock etc)

keep the metering pump too, premixing would turn out to be a bitch after a while

premixing is actually better than running the metering pump, then you know exactly how much oil / fuel ratio the engine is getting, and your

not running dirty sump oil (maybe not dirty, but dirtier) than fresh out

of the bottle 8)

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how do you figure that?

unless your oil is seperating in tank and its just getting oil..

the oil metering pumps can block up if the oil isnt regularly serviced causing a blockage,no oil getting through creating excessive wear on housings and seals...

ive always run premix...i run a omp on my s4 at the moment but still chuck a bit of oil in the fuel for good measure..usually penrite racing stuff..

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I'm assuming this is a N/A 12A rather than a 12AT.

Just use an "ok" mineral oil....we used to used Valvoline XLD 20/50 in our RX7 race motor. I use Total 20/40 in the RX3 (its relatively cheap from our local Mazda Dealer).

Personally I wouldnt bother with pre-mixing for a street motor. Our RX3 gets used less than once a month and has had no problems with a blocked metering pump, and I would suspect for a engine that has been sitting, pre-mix would actually be more problematic as the oil seperates with sitting.

If the metering pump is blocking, I'd be asking how much excess RTV is actually floating around the engine (and what other damage is it doing), or what sort of state the engine is really in if it is causing the oil be carrying that much crap. If the oil is that thick that its caused the metering pump to block....consider what its doing to the bearings and other oil galleries.

Most modern 12As should run at least 100K km without major work, I've seen a stock 12AT in a HB Cosmo still running (untouched) at 200K, I would suspect the least of your issues would be whether you run pre-mix or not.

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