Guest Speedstar Posted June 14, 2006 Share Posted June 14, 2006 Ive just replaced the master cylinder in the colt and bled the system, but when the cars running (or the vacuum line to the booster is on) the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor, then comes on hard locking up the brakes. With the vacuum line off (or the car off) the brakings heavy, but theres pressure on the pedal and stops evenly, any ideas? Bad booster maybe? Im sure theres no air in the lines any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zep Posted June 14, 2006 Share Posted June 14, 2006 Apparantly there is a special way to install master cyclinders. Defcon knows how to do it, I'll ask him to take a study-break and try type it up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 Sounds like the brakes aren't bled properly yet. I had the same when I replaced my master cylinder after doing a drum to disc conversion. We bled the brakes and the pedal felt firm, but once I started the engine and drove the pedal went straight to the floor - bled them again going through about 500ml of fluid in the reseviour and all is sweet now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Speedstar Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 Ive bled them twice?!? is there a guide somewhere on the net you could recommend maybe I did it wrong? When are you suppose to do the nipples back up? when your foots off the pedal or on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 put a clear tube over the nipple so you can see air locks. this is how i do it. 1 get a mate to jump in, 2 apply pressure 3 open nipple, foot shud now go down at least half way,(push till it stops)(be sure the person in the car doesent lift off the pedal if the nipple is open) 4 once you can see fluid has stopd flowing close nipple. 5 repeat 2,3,4. be sure the not to run out of fluid start with the furtherist away wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 dont pus pedal all the way to floor. 'older cars master cylinders tend to blow fluid past the seal if this happens, or can often scavenge air' just go to about 1-2" from floor chur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Speedstar Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 Was a small piece of rubber (reaction disc?) that sits between the two piston arms in the booster that had fallen out when I painted it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 Dont ya hate it when shit like that happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SYKOV6 Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 zetec has it right but you get a can bleeding hose that has a one way valve in it so ya dont have to open and close the nipple every pump, you just open the nipple and place the end of the bleeder tube in a container of brake fluid and pump until bubbles stop coming out. always start with the furtherest away wheel from the master cyl. if it doesnt work DONT fuck around take it to a brake specialist and get it sorted. roaring up to a corner jumping on the picks and the pedal going to the floor is a fuckin scary feeling must have multiple posts goin on at once. my sister reaction disc fell out of her HQholdy it made the brakes like a 'hair trigger' just breathe on the pedal and it would lock up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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