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Lumpy Cam And Carby


Guest Neatone

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Guest Neatone

I have a mk2 1600 In my mk1 escort, Ive had it fully reco'd with new pistons the lot, Im looking at getting a lumpy cam, Can you have it too lumpy? some one has to have done these mods,

Whats the best or most suitable cam to get?

Where From?

Whats the cost?

And am looking at getting a new carby,

Again, whats gonna work the best?

where from?

Whats the cost?

I appreciate all the help,

Im currently looking at retiring my mk1 to swap engines into my project so I can do with as much info as poss right now

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If u just reco the motor u should have done the cam at the same time now it will cost even more money.

Anyways yes u can go too lumpy and the car will be a pig to drive, u probably would want a mild or fast road cam u should be alright.

for carby i would go for either the twinthroat 32/36 off a 2L pinto engine or the twinthroat 40/40 off a v6 capri engine or if u want better go for twin sideys webber or dellortos

prices really depends on what u want

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Guest Neatone

The enigne is coming out of the car soon any way and they put in a mild cam but i dont really notice much difference

Im thinking for the carbies the webbers or dellortos, wheres the best place to get them tho?

The lumpy cam isnt really that important whether i get it or not, i'd like to but if its too expenisve then il give it a miss for now

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Guest Eddie W

Pair of 40 DCOEs on Trademe at the moment. Starting bid was 300 I think. I've used the 40/40 DFA on a few cars and found them really good. The big thing about them is the simultaneous opening butterflies. On cams it depends on what other mods are done, it must all balance out together. The old grind numbers I'm used to are probably out of date but the original GT Ford cam was around 54degrees overlap and a good fast road cam was the Cosworth A2 with around 82 degrees overlap. It's about this sort of timing where sidedrafts start to come in to play and anything much under is not going to get any advantage from them. My rally Esky had a Cosworth A6 with 112 degrees overlap and 45DCOEs with 38mm chokes. Nothing much under 4000rpm and then from 4500 on it went like gangbusters but of course it was 1800cc which helps smoothout a lumpy cam.

Eddie

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Umm mine is a crowe grind.. 280" Duration and 400 thou valve lift on a cutom billet .. works very well.... almost the drives like a standard enginemaybe a bit more revs when taking off with load or launching.... other than that its sweet....

Gotta be careful have you got standard pistons? because i think if you are using 1300 pistons you may have problems with them hitting the valves with that grind.

Yeah the 32/36 doe sok.... but i want sideys but can't be bothered moving my brake booster...

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Yeah i found a re grind was around 80-120..... but that grind i got was to lumpy for a regrind so i had to get a billet.. was about 320? i think it was done by Franklin Cam services.. meant to be the best around

and yes definantly new followers...

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Guest WESTCORT

my cam bcf2 specs which are 290 duration and 382 lift. cost me $142 for the regrind, was around the lumpiest regrind i could get without the valves playing rugby with the pistons.

New followers were about $75 for all 8

Good street cam.

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Guest Neatone

Hey, thanks for all your help i think i might leave the cam for now, stil a little confused about the kinda carb to get tho

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Guest Anonymous

Hey ESCORT POWER

You say that u are runnin a bcf2 cam, what are the specs on your engine and what carbs or carb are u runnin and what is the jettin for the carbs. thankz

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BCF2 is apparently a very good cam.. i'm told its a very old profile so its tried and true i spose... will go into a standard engine and make good improvement i am told. and it will work with 1300 pistons without mods as well...

If i had rebuilt the bottom of my engine i probably would have used this cam with +60 oversized 1300 pistons... should go hard as

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Guest WESTCORT

hey brendan,

ive got a 1300gt carb on my new 1300 engine (32/32 is the carb i think) its got the orginal 1300 jets.

send me a pm if you want more info.

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Guest Eddie W

The BCF2 was a factory profile for fast road/track work if I remember right. It used to be available from John Andrew Superford who were the main suppliers of performance bits years ago. Specs were not hugely different from the Cossie A2. Designed specifically for the 1600 xflow. A good way to go.

You guys that are going down this road should look very carefully at your piston situation as the standard types with slotted oil return don't take big numbers very well. Very inclined to separate the top off when revved hard. The answer for nonxflow was easy, VW beetle pistons made by Mahle bit I'm not sure what your options are for a bowl in piston.

Eddie

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types with slotted oil return don't take big numbers very well. Very inclined to separate the top off when revved hard.

:shock: What sort of revs would you be doing for that to happen??

I spose itd have to be continuously revved hard for that to happen tho aye?

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Guest Eddie W

In the 7s I'd say although even standard motors were known to do it when worked hard on a fairly continuous basis. Any pistons for serious work will have a drilled oil return under the oil ring and not have those expansion slots down the side. The standard xflow piston is also quite heavy with a lot of the weight above the gudgeon making them rattle going over TDC with racing type clearances. The heat path to the rings which gets rid of a lot of the combustion heat is also quite long as it follows the surface of the piston. My 1800 had a small chamber ground into the head and a small dish in the piston crown making it far more efficient and much lighter.

Eddie

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