Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'toyota'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Technical
    • Tech Talk
    • Tech Articles
  • Projects
    • Projects and Build Ups
    • Project Discussion
    • Two Wheels
  • Oldschool Happenings
    • Upcoming OS Events
    • Upper North Island Region
    • Lower North Island Region
    • South Island Region
    • International/Australia

Categories

There are no results to display.


Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Website URL


Skype


Interests

Found 49 results

  1. Test test test, 1, 2, 3.
  2. Discuss. Project thread. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/42941-jtc3ds-ms65-crown-build/ Chur.
  3. Build Thread Home and tucked up in the garage
  4. piazzanoob

    Kp60 starlet no spark

    Hey guys a couple of days ago I tried to start my 4k and as I was cranking it over I realised that I had removed the distrubtor rotor so I put that back in and still no go. And it was going sweet prior to this So as it is it has no spark Still has a points ignition Have tested the coil and found it had shorted itself Placed another coil in and wired one to the positive feed and earthed the other to the engine And I'm still not getting any spark Have checked all the fuses As it is water is leaking onto the relays Still need to test them Does anyone had any simlair issues Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
  5. whitefoxxx

    Single downdraught carb help

    Hey team I am wanting to swap the carb out on my Toyota 4k-u. Motor has only had small amount of work (mild cam, free flow exhaust, and full internal freshen up) I have currently got a Weber 32/36 on it and personally im not a fan, needs rejetting and some modification to the throttle linkage to make it feel nicer on the pedal and drive as it should. I thought about just rebuilding a factory aisan carb but they are crap out of the factory anyway so dont see the point. I dont want to spend huge money. I have been looking into a nikki carb off the likes of a mazda b2000 or similar (because they can be bolted onto a factory manifold with little to no modification to manifold or throttle linkage) but i cant find any info out on factory jet size or venturi size to compare to the aisan or weber carb specs. Does anyone know the specs of these nikki carbs? My google searches have found little to no relevant information Or any other suggestions to carbs that would be well suited as a small upgrade. heard datsun l18 carbs are worth looking into aswell Any information or feedback appreciated
  6. Fire away.
  7. Kia Ora! Brief history of my 'Rona. I bought at the end of last year to be my daily drive. It was good nick with just over 230k's on the clock and on the test drive it felt nice and tight apart from one knock coming from the back. The knock was from the exhaust hitting the tow bar which resulted in getting a new rear muffler. I opted to get from the axle back a 2" exhaust set up with a "sports" muffler to give a nice rumble. Also when I picked it up from the previous owner he gave me a set of lowering springs for the front end so I chucked them in. After driving around like this for a wee while I noticed the radiator leaking/showing signs of "wetting" and rotting. Time for a rad swap! I used a Scarles Civic "half rad" as it was cheap and was going to be easy to make some brackets to install. I also figured, even though it is small it would still do a better job of the current set up. The factory shroud for the fan wouldn't fit the new rad and I had a spare electric fan off my GT4 project so I figured I would ditch the old clutch fan as well. Simple brackets to make it fit in the factory location. Welded up thanks to DKM over in Wairau. At the same time as replacing the rad, I needed to fix an exhaust leak and clean out the starter motor. When I took the exhaust manifold off I noticed a leak coming from the welch/frost/core plugs. Turns out they were almost rusted all the way through so in went a new set of those. After seeing the inside of the water jackets I decided that it would be best to change the water pump as well and for piece of mind I got a new thermostat and a couple of gaskets. This is what the final install looked like. I'm yet to wire in my thermo switch for the fan so currently its on all the time. After dorting around like this for maybe 3 weeks I notice a coolant leak coming from around the head/coolant inlet pipe. I figured it would just be one of the new gaskets that I put in not sealing but after more investigation I found some oil mixed in with coolant dribbling down the side of the block. Bugger. Head gasket was on the way out. I've never really cracked open a motor before and on my GT4 I had the motor rebuilt professionally but that cost me an arm and a leg and the neighbours dog. Seeing as the Corona had a very simple 3T motor I thought I would get amongst and do it myself. After whipping the head off it was easy to see where the head gasket was failing. The whole motor was actually looking in bad shape. It was obvious that there hadn;t been any actual coolant run through the motor for quite some time as there was heaps of corrosion in the head and the water galleries on the block where pretty bad as well. After stripping and cleaning the head I decided that it would be best to get it acid dipped to get ride of all the crap out of it and depending on how that came up whether or not to get it surfaced. Whilst tidying up the rest of engine bay I poked around the lifters for the push rods and discovered really sludgy oil with way to much grit and grim in it. What condition was the bottom end it??? The decision was made and after a long night I pulled the motor and gearbox out (go simple old school cars that only need one person) and stripped it right down. The oil pan had heaps of crap in it so I'm glad I did. I sent all the essentials to West Auckland Engine Reconditioners and they acid dipped the crank, pistons, rods, head and all the other stuff. New bearings where ordered (after struggling to find any) and piston rings and gasket sets for the whole motor. The rebuilders honed the block, polished the crank, skimmed the fly wheel and surfaced the head. I put the head back together on the weekend and I picked up the rest of the parts yesterday.
  8. So last year I decided I wanted a project can so started hunting around. Being young and dumb I sold my 96 Toyota levin and got my self a 1975 Corona from a friend of a friend. The car had been sitting in her shed for around 4yrs. on first inspection I could tell it needed a lot of work. So I came back with a friend to try get it running. I told myself that if we couldn't get it started it was a no go. After giving it a quick once over topping up fluids and having to go get some fuel we managed to pull start it. So I handed over the cash and drove it home... Great start. First issue presented itself as I got home in the form of a split fuel hose. First things replaced: Fuel hose and filter, oil and filter change and a new set of tyres. Next I started work on the rust. This took me months and is still on going. I have done all work myself so far with assistance from my old man and a mate once or twice. Fast forward to 2015 the car has not had any work done in a few months but I'm back on track to getting it up and running. State of the car: it is running a 18RGEU from a Celica GT and 5speed gearbox to match (done by previous owner) car has been lowered and a ridiculous muffler has been installed as well (also by previous owner). The car is currently primer grey (used to be orange) and still has a little bit of rust to deal with but nothing major. I am in the process of getting the engine running properly, having issues getting a spark. Ruled out spark plugs, coil, igniter. I replaced the main coil lead as it was faulty so replaced it but still no joy. can't wait to get it on the road! (Photos are of how it looked when I first got it)
  9. Discussion thread: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/40381-shakotoms-1985-toyota-hilux/ Once upon a time i went off roading with a mate and decided it was fun playing in the mud. a period of time went by and I was driving my dads safari to work and was like yeah... I could put up with this. So i did some research and semi decided i wanted something with a solid front and rear end, that would be easy to maintain and relatively reliable. I thought about a Safari as I really like my dads but decided they were a bit out of my price range. So i though Toyotas are pretty bulletproof... so HiLux? Did a bit more hunting and found heaps of IFS ones. Eventually some solid axle ones turned up and i narrowed it down to two i was interested in. One being a real tidy 1990 single cab with brand new tyres, Rego, Wof and harldy any issues. The other being well the complete opposite. yet again the heart ruled over the head... So i towed home this ratty and rusty hilux because i liked the earlier front end rather than the newer one. Looking back it wouldve been easier to buy the later model one and source a earlier set of guards ect from a wreckers I knew it had a bit of rust in places in the body, but everything else appeared to be sweet and it drove fine. The more poking around I actually did after i got it home revealed actually how crappy it was. As i was told my one of my mates 'Ive seen better in a junkyard' and as i researched more about it there was way more missing, cut out or just not there in general than I realised. The surface rust in the fire wall and floor turned into a hole, after stripping the interior to see the extent of the rust i found it had got into the wiper channel aswell. the bit of rust in the sills turned in to big holes. The aftermarket bucket seats were barely held in by dodgy looking brackets. someone had cut a gaping hole in and the lower part of the radiator support was missing also. rear brakes were seized and pedal disappeared to the floor. and the chassis/components had copped a can of black over the top of dirt/grease/muck which was peeling off. But on a better note. The set of pretty much brand new 33x12.5 mud tyres my dad had on his pajero fit this, Its got a 2in lift on EFS springs, and the same on the body. The LSD in the rear appears flamin tight, and it fitted 99% of my wants from a fourby. Plus its a HiLux... There pretty much bullet proof. (well I dont think TopGear tested that, but it withstood pretty much everything they could drop on it, it off, drive it in to, going for a swim and their genral crazyness) Now ive had this a couple of months actually and in the doing so proceeded to start removing things to inspect/clean/repair/or replace as applicable, But that went way further than intended. Once the interior was removed, and the gearbox was out to replace the clutch, the engine came out too because it was too dodgy leaving it there without a rear mount, Dad and i decided that it was 6 bolts and we could lift the body off real easy to get rid of the gunk on the chassis. So we did. Next thing the chassis had been completely stripped and bare metalled, leaf springs split to individual leaves and both diffs dissassembled and everything has been given the once over. The chassis was covered in about a centimeter of gunk on the outside and we probably got about 10L of sand out if the inside of the chassis. Im pretty sure theres still more in there but weve shaken it, flipped it, banged it, and blown it out as best as we possibly can. So im quite happy with it Both diffs were dissassembled, baremetalled, and inspected. The front axle seals were leaking so the steering knuckle was full of an oil/grease mixture which smelt fantastic. apart from that both diffs checked out, So Ive etch primed and painted both diffs black reassembled them and ordered a swivel kit for the front. The chassis been etchprimed and blacked also. Hopefully itll stick a bit better and also make future cleaning of it alot easier. During all that, The leaf springs have been cleaned up and painted as well as the associated componentry. Every single Ubolt fought with me when being undone. My rattle gun wouldnt crack them and ended up having to use a meter long pipe over a power bar to undo them and then they all proceded to break or bend. So new EFS ones were ordered off 4WDBits with a EFS shackle bush kit. which were installed along with the reassembled leaf springs onto the chassis Excuse the tiny little tyres, but its alot easier to work on with them on The front leaf springs have been put back in and the diffs almost ready to go in aswell, but i managed to drop the hub on my foot and now have a cast on it for a week to immobilse it while whatevers wrong with it fixes itself. So hopefully thats off by the end of the week and itll just have to be strapped up. So lesson learnt. HiLux hubs plus feet = Less than ideal
  10. discussion thread for my project ae70 4age drop. fire away
  11. ok here we go, 1982 flat front AE70 currently running 3a-u with webers and lumpy cam. rings have pretty well gone so its time for a 4age. here is the car as is currently: link to discussion thread here: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/46777-sams-ae70-project-4age-16v/
  12. Picked this up the other week with help from Todd (driftnmaz). Its got a 3a which is running quite rough at the moment, with a 4 speed t50 (3rds fucked). The high tech rubbish bag is because we cant get the window into its tracks (hopefully fix it this weekend) The clutch is fucked and its got a lockie in it. Has a bit of rust, which has just been bogged up for now. Plans are to get it wofed and regoed ASAP, then attempt to drift with the 3a, slam, wheels and after ive gotten used to it im going to be dropping a 4age in. When i do the 4age im going to do all the rust properly. It came with a SHIT load of spares, which i still havent gotten through. Discuss here: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=35283
  13. CURRENTLY HOW I GOT IT Discussion Thread //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/44469-toyota-boys-1975-toyota-corona-discussion/?hl=rt100#entry1362733
  14. milkchoclety

    HELP! Toyota 4K clutch not working!

    I was driving today and while pressing the clutch down to move up to third gear it sounded like something broke, a sort of knock noise. It wasn't a violent knock, just soft. So now the clutch pedal feels loose, and it will not go into gear easily or at all, my dad had to do some sort of gear rpm timing maneuver to change through the gears without having to engage the clutch so we could get home. So I know it is probably nothing to do with the gearbox, and maybe with the clutch kit. The problem is I dont know where to look for parts that may have broken. Does anyone know what may have happened and how it can be fixed? Thanks The car is a KE20 with a 4k motor.
  15. Hey all, I'm trying to find a complete wiring diagram for my build, and it seems pulling complete ones from the net is proving difficult. I can get input diagrams for the back of the computer, but nothing on wiring layouts. Can anyone recommend a good source for finding these? I'm specifically looking for one for an 2001 Toyota Altezza Gita (or Lexus IS300 Sportcross), but a point in the right direction would be awesome! I'll carry on trawling forums in the meantime. Cheers Inerweb gurus and analogue warriors alike!
  16. jtc3d

    Toyota 2jz engine questions

    Hey automotive ninjas, I have a few questions I need answers to. I'm gonna look them up on the interwebs, but I thought I'd throw them out to you guys as well. You may have some quick answers for me that'll save me some googling time. Does the 2jz-ge vvti have a fuel bar overflow return system? The 3"8 outlet pipe at the back of the block under the manifold. Is it for a heater pipe or engine cooling? Will the power steering sensor in the engine computer cause problems, if we loop the outlet to the return on the power steering pump? Or there a better way to do it? Is it easier to just take the power steering pump off the engine and run a shorter belt? I hope those make sense. Any help would be much apprech! Cheers guys.
  17. Hey all, I'm doing a 2jz-ge swap into an MS65 crown and am currently sourcing a radiator. I can go to a wreckers for a modern one and fab it into the engine bay, but the origional has a sweet fitment in the front bumper. So I was thinking with a cooling fan added would the origional be enough to cool the new engine? I'm googling this as well, but since this is such a great crown community, someone might have already tackled this problem. Cheers boys and girls.
  18. My Mums partner scored me this mark II for my 21st!! he got it off his dad who has owned and garaged it for the last 20 years, has a 1.8 1s u, 4 speed manual w55 box, 175XXX, completely stock. This is also my first car that I want to put money into/first rwd manual car.
  19. Discuss //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/37176-mccrazys-13b-rt40-corona/ Whats up, Thought I would throw up a few pics and a story about my 1969 toyota corona RT40. Ok so I scored the car for $550 off Ebay over here in Brisbane, picked the car up from Goldcoast. First I did all the rust repairs, ball joints and suspension. Then de-loomed the engine bay while it was running the 1.5L rat port power plant. Then scored an 18RG set up which went in for 2 months but the RG just didnt cut the mustard so out it cam and in went a 13B 6 port engine from a series 4 RX7 with 51mm IDA weber. The mazda power plant is far better than the RG, front end was to heavy with the boat anchor RG. With the 13B conversion it needed a lot more cutting to make fit. custom transmission tunnel and also notching of the front crossmember. Reversed sump and a custom pick up made The set up is: 1988 13B 6 port with aux port inserts removed 51mm IDA Series 2 RX7 electronic dizzy Gilmer drive EL falcon alternator Goss fuel pump Holley reg 3/8 fuel lines 2" extractors into 2 3/4" through 2 mufflers Series 1 RX7 gearbox Custom 3" drive shaft Standard RT40 diff welded up - still deciding what diff set up to run
  20. kos420nz

    Toyota 3TC

    Hi Guys, I have a Corona tt132 have recently , put new spark plugs in , set timing , leads , coil , cleaned carb and set fuel mix to 2.5 - 3 turns out, set idle mix , all that jazz . now has devoleped a miss up high around 5 grand and above. Any ideas what it could be, am stumped ...
  21. Hi guys was just wondering what suitable options are available/reasonable to upgrade the engine in my 1975 Corona (currently all standard). Dont't really have much idea at the moment but looking for options. Any suggestions would be appreciated, along with any predicted costs involved with the upgrade. There is currently no build thread for this post as I am not 100% sure on what I want to do yet.
  22. Hey, My name is Ben Vallance and this is my 1982 GX61 Toyota Corona Mark II I was driving down Memorial Ave in Christchurch and I spotted the old beast for sale on the side of the road. Knowing she had A LOT of potential I quickly contacted the owner who was an old man wanting to sell his beloved family car from which he owned since the car was imported New Zealand new from Japan due to the fact that his eyesight had become impaired and couldn't see well enough to drive... His loss my score! When it came to inspection I brought Rodney a good mate from work with me so we could carefully look over the car for any sign of damage Etc.. Ever heard when its too good to be true then it probably is? Well not in this circumstance, Hey Presto! 188,000 k's on the clock, the Original ownership papers and to my surprise a handbook with documentation of every service, replacement part, hell even when he's changed the water. The Interior Was mint condition with two seat covers that looked like they had been on there since the beginning judging from the amount of lint that had built up in the buttons of the seat. The Outside was Fantastic and after buying it and getting its first full tank of gas I gave it a Full Cut/Polish I plan on doing a few modifications to it over the years I have it. Lists include: -1JZ-GTE Engine conversion and Manual gear box -Tinting the windows -Lowering for the moment is gong to be shortened springs but I would like to have adjustable suspension at some stage -Vinyl leather upholstery for the inside because since owning it I have made 3 burn holes in the seats without even noticing -Looking for a set of rims that would suit it at the moment, any help? -2.5" straight pipe exhaust/ (+screamer pipe when the jz comes) -Full custom carpeted boot Subwoofer enclosure with lid for easy access to the spare wheel -And a whole lot more as I find bits i want to mess around with and restore PROJECT DISCUSSION HERE: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/35902-benvallances-1982-gx61-toyota-corona-mark-ii/ *Photo I took with my friend Max's 1983 Corona Dx
  23. any chance a 3y intake mani will fit a 4k, havnt got one on me but looking at one with carbs for cheapish and looks to be similar to 4k so was just curious? cheers
  24. Discussion - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/21200-yelo76-1974-ta22-celica/?p=543791 Hiya all, I was planning to wait until the panel work had been done, but here goes anyway. What I have started with, A TA22 Celica (Actual year is 1974), has been registered as a TA23 (Previous owner has swaped the chassis plates at some stage). I now have a solid plan for fixing this up involving deregistering it , changing the plates back (As he left the original one in the car) and registering from scratch. Here is the state of it when I got it, didn't look too bad..... (and as the Tui add goes... Yeah Right) Apparently all it needed was to have the wiring for the dash re done and it was good to go, the more I cleaned it up, the more rust I found. Anyway, I quickly realised that it was going to be a back to bare metal job and cut out the rust and rebuild it. Tried getting it quoted at a few places, most wouldn't even consider it due to the amount of work. One guy said, he would charge the earth, why not get a mig and have a crack at it myself. So that is where I am at. Some of the passenger sill and the progress on it. What got cut out of the sill The rebuilt item (Sills were folded up through a work contact for nothing, Pretty stocked about this) One side stripped and more patches done at the top of the pillars. Anyway this has taken a good 6 months to get to this state due to having a young family etc. (Only get a few hours a week on it and a limited budget thus far) Plans for her are: Finish removing rust Shave locks and side mirrors Do as much of the filling and prep work myself Paint (Undecided at this stage, considering 2 tone, silver bottom and yellow with touch of orange candy on the top) New chrome all around 17" wheels (Undecided yet) Engine: 2TGEU to be built (Will run with 2TC twin carbs to start with) Sc-12 supercharger (Setup like Tim Frost's one was) CRO2 cooling system (I don't like big intercoolers and want something different) Deloomed engine bay + Battery in boot Handling: Upgrade of front discs to something larger Change rears to discs Try and work out some way of getting an LSD into it. New bushes all around etc. Interior: Well the door cards I have a pretty rotten, the Dash is stuffed and there is no parcel tray, So I am considering fabricating fibreglass versions. (Going to have a crack at making a mould for the dash) Recover rear seats and some new seats up front New stereo in dash 6" speakers up front, 6X9's back parcel tray, 10" in custom enclosure in the boot (Using the right side well) I know it is a bit of a list, but I guess I am in no real hurry to get there, as Budget allows. The main goal is to get it back on the road. Hopefully before the end of the year