GARDRB

How do you know I'm not?

Ok, so I’ve made a big push on this the last week or so @Dudley and @di0n and a couple of other friends have been super helpful. I got the engine back in and realised that if I turned gearbox rubber mount around 180° it let the engine sit forward just far enough to clear the clutch master, I spaced the mounts a bit and put the crossmember spacers back in and I have a metric bees dick of clearance pretty much everywhere. We pushed on Saturday to get it ready for a show on Sunday, but I ran out of steam. Some of the highlights - Crossmember and caster arm brackets in. - @Romans old T3 caster arms are in - Dion cleaned up the drivers front guard that he’d mangled when he owned the car - Driveshaft in - We spent an hour or so measuring and moving the diff and setting the pinion angle and I’ve tacked the leaf mounts onto it. - @Dudley welded up my 2 to 1 section of my exhaust and painted it bright red for me, now I just need to cut it and make it fit after he somehow warped it. - Front wheel bearings replaced. To Do - finish exhaust - fill diff/gearbox/engine fluids - finish welding the leaf mounts and reshape the brake lines on the diff - get handbrake cables modified to fit ae92 fxgt calipers - wire alternator - wire fans -finish alarm and fuse box wiring - fuel return line - bleed brakes and clutch - DRIVE

How dare you.. B-series, H-series, K-series, SR20, 2zz (and just for you all the cheap "nasty" modern Toyota motors) = alloy Everything else = Iron block strength Edit so as not to spam Rhys' thread, if Toyota had started making the S-series in the late 80s when the SR and B-series came out, an alloy 3SGE BEAMS would have been a great engine

As an internet engineer can I request that these strut top mounts pick up the third bolt so you have something to top the load along the carbon pushing the coilover studs outwards. Especially with them not sitting down onto the panel, they feel like you're introducing a lever effect to them.

Help me step-drill, I'm stuck

He does. @AE25 what condition is the front end in? Also do you have driver and passenger door in good condition?

haha the vin tag fell off (like really fell off, not "fell off") my brother's surf when we were working on it recently. It's now safely reattached with new rivets.

@drifter4ag should

First test cut of my drawing worked. Then I did one of the combination of 2T bellhousing and 1NZ block and somehow cocked my reference photo up for the bellhousing then got Covid. The consensus at drag day was that it’s a great idea. So now to work on the peer pressuring @Dudley phase

The 2ZR uses the 1ZZ header flange so I might see if I can get some factory MR2 headers. The car needs a WOF first though

Asking for a friend, did you end up getting a C60 for this and if so does it mount using the same brackets and mounts as the c56? I have a C66 and 2zr sitting in the driveway and I'm having silly ideas about putting it in my ae101 wagon

We just want to see if we can bankrupt you faster than the banana Mazda does

Could definitely work in our favour

Let’s take the KP and the KE20 so @gibbon gets us both a side of fries and I’ll shout you a burger

Awesome, that kinda confirms what I thought

What torque do you suggest?

On the seat mounting topic, I know it's pretty much "if you use aftermarket rails your children will die in a fire and you will crash into a school bus and everyone will die unless you mount your seatbelt to the floor using a doubler plate" But if you were to manufacture a seat bracket in a way that didn't have any welds (folding and bolting and heavyweight material) can you mount the belt to the bracket?

Recaro boffins, lend me your ears. I have some factory ae101 Corolla Recaro rails from the factory fishnets, they are the 6 bolt pattern. I've looked at Accord Recaros and remember them being a 4 bolt pattern. Is there any rule for which seats are 6 bolt and which seats are 4 bolt? Ideally I want some modernish seats, but need the 6 bolt pattern. It looks like Evo 7 onward must have changed to the 4 bolt pattern? Are Civic/Integra seats 6 bolt? What about Suzuki Swift?

I drew this up, I'll laser cut it tonight and make sure it fits nice-ish Then @Roman found this drawing he'd done which gives me an idea of the J160 pattern. I'm also gonna draw up the 4K pattern and see how close that is and @Dudley is bringing me a 2T bellhousing too.

So the engine is back in the engine hole I'd forgotten how friendly it all is in there and have been playing hide the sausage in the back of the engine bay trying to get all the hoses and things in. The good news is that the new booster gives heeeeeaps of room from the driver's side head. The bad news is that the fancy new Tilton clutch master is still very close to the plug lead cover. I'm looking at scootching the engine forward a couple of mm to gain a bit more clearance to the clutch master and potentially spacing the gearbox mount up off the cross-member to gain a few more bee's dicks. Did I mention this engine isn't designed to fit in this car? The heater tap is pretty ugly, but I like that it's OEM and most of the sins are hidden by the factory 1UZ cover which I think looks pretty cool in the Corolla engine bay (when it's clean). Problem number two is that the rack and sump are still veeeeeeeeeery friendly. I've finessed the cast mount on the rack quite a bit, but it's pretty clear that the patch that banana sump guy put on the sump (after I ground it away too much) kinda needs to move, but I'm really struggling with the concept of taking the sump off again and getting someone else to weld it again, but deep down I know that this is the best solution. Early on I got some 12mm spacers made up for the cross-member because it appeared to be what all the cool kids who were doing silly swaps that weren't meant to fit in this small engine bay were doing. I really wanted to take them out, but have put them back in temporarily because the help with clutch cylinder clearance and also let me run a packer under the engine mount to get me some height off the rack. My ideal scenario is that I pull the sump out again and get it notched more and then sit the engine a little closer to the swaybar to give me more clearance to the clutch master. I'm also looking for one of these intake pipes, coz I like OEM and young, dumb me cut the resonator box off the bottom of it early on when I needed booster clearance. I've made a start on mapping out where I have space to wing the sump pan so I can shorten the height of it and try and retain the capacity, as currently the pan hangs below the cross-member, and the whole underside of the car is covered in scars from where it's been plowed into the road. The rectangle is safe space in the engine bay, so I should easily be able to get the capacity back after taking the 15-25mm off the bottom of the pan that I need. My brother is still campaigning for me to give up and put a 4 cylinder in it. But I really want to at least drive it. And the only engine that I've considered replacing it with is a K24 which ends up costing moonbeams in swap parts.

Step one

There is a guy on YouTube that changes 4AG cams through the oil filler and exhaust. This is where @RomanDayf changes his rods

Now someone on Instagram is trying to convince me that Niteparts does a bellhousing for the 1NZ...

Yeah, when we were out at Marino's we were saying it looked like a bike engine crossed with a SIlvertop. The biggest issue I see at the moment is the space between the "oil pan" and the bellhousing mount is quite short. The webbing will need to be cut out to sit over the steering rack, and the cross-member will most likely need to be scalloped to fit around the "bowl". I'll grab photos of the sump soon.

@Dudley and I went for a Sunday drive and came back with a 2NZ. They’re a dinky little engine. There’s a lot going on in the sump that would complicate the crossmember a little.