Shandangles

spent a hour or so getting the remaining sound deadening glue out with a wire wheel today, WAY easier that pissing about with petrol etc pretty empty now

either super bright yellow or chocolate brown i think, prob same dark grey as jacksons s14 the inside

evidently the thing to do once you put up a build thread is put up a yarn thread..... YARN AWAY!!!

started ripping the wiring/everything out. what a CUNT of a job..

discussion thread viewtopic.php?f=18&t=30651 thought i should finally put up a build thread just before i move to aus and dont touch the car for ages brought it in '08 running a 4age, k50, d2s, s series locker and a link making 88whp then eventually over the coarse of the next three years it turned into this was running a 4agte w55 hilux diff, trd/ koni, rose joints/ adjustable everywhere 230 whp. till about 3 weeks ago. I then decided to completely strip it just 6 weeks before i move to aussie for god knows how long, but in the 6 weeks before i go she will be undergoing some major changes, so this thread will be about the car from now on. She is going to visit my good buddies Simon and Dan (nothingsfree) aka SURFAB on monday for some mad fab shit then off for a P&P in and out then hiffed in the shed will take progress pics as it comes along

but a 7m will fuck out every time. would WAY rather a NA 2j over any M series

nothing is ever as cheap as you think. spend a little bit extra and hiff the anchor and go JZ

there is a sweet model on BC that is inverted and had external oil resivours so can adjust bound and rebound they are about 2k tho, my 70 will be getting them shortly ish pisc arent of the proper struts as they have the stub etc but they look the biz http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BC-Racing-Ad ... 097wt_1185

^^^ hahaa less than 3k what a crock of shit, nothing is ever as easy as it appears to be with engine swaps, EVER. and look at "a" series K50 prices on TM not cheap anymore. i think of you could do a drive in drive out swap for sub 3k inc cert you would def deserve a crate of DB.

get a more economical car / more self control / man the fuck up....

This, or im pretty sure KW do bolt in rails for ae86, which will be the same as a ke70, then def will have no issues

there is a open drift day at ruapuna tomorro from 10 till 3, $50 entry no cage required need wof tho

yarn about bundy tube..... edit: was thinking fuel lines, my bad

cant have any part of the fuel system in the "cabin" part of the car for msnz use, i dont know where the rule is but thats always been the case when iv been scrutineered. in the boot with sheets of some material between the "cabin" and the boot is sweet as tho. chop the spare wheel well out, weld in a flat sheet, make a tank thats the required size in any spor under there you want. sorted

do they do a bolt/weld in panhard/watts link kit?? fuck thats sweet if they do

^ yeah deal extreme is a mint site, myself and mates have never had any problems with them, stuff usually arrives in about 10 days

why is setting up a watts link going to be considerably more expensive? lost of production cars came out with them, if they were massively expensive they would have all had panhards

if your worried about diff location with a panhard, why not use a watts link??

^ you dont need to run in bearings as (in theory) they dont actually touch anything as they have a layer of oil on/around them. rings are what need running in

the dyno is the best place to run in an engine, let warm up, a bit of getting lower revs sorted then super max load but never redline for first 1000kms. how i did mine and its prime

if you "measure twice cut once" keeper springs are not necessary. however for your current situation i think they could be the answer. doing what beaver etc said is the correct way to do it, cut your strut tube down, run a shorter body shock, hey presto super slammed with the height wound fully up

from memory the bundy has to be "mounted" to the chassis every 300mm

get a 4wd hilux diff with the 6x139 stud pattern, then re drill axels to 4x110 and bang in the lathe to get OD down to a reasonable size. sorted

use integra pump from tank to surgem bosch from surge to fuel rail, woy overkill but you have everything so who cares. 8mm bundy will be sweet

as fuel said as close to 0 as possible if not negative. and the wheel MUST follow the golden rule. WIDTH MUST BE AT LEAST HALF WHEEL DIAMETER. eg. a 14" wheel must be at least 7" wide if not 8" or 9" etc oh and 16" tires are crazy expensive and 17" on old cars doesn't look right