Jump to content

Rhyscar

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    695

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Rhyscar

  1. Rhyscar
    If your still having issues with shifting the only other thing worth checking out is the clutch plate and make sure it's not cracked. Replacement plates are real cheap from Toyota and don't normally crack cause they are made by exedy but I have had it happen before with a shitty pbr clutch plate where it wasn't shifting right for a while before it finally decided to explode at manfield. Sorry for the wall of text. Hopefully some of it is helpful.
  2. Rhyscar
    Oh easy was to get that shaft out is to undo balljoints bolts and swing strut out, splitting the inner cv on that drivers side. Half shaft will then come out easy as. Just need to repack cv with grease and make sure you get the band done up nice and tight which is easy with those Toyota clips on there or a good thick cable tie works fine for a certain amount of time also.
  3. Rhyscar
    Rebuilding the gearbox is relatively easy especially if your only doing bearings. Pull the end cap off, take to gearbox shop and get them to pull reverse and 5th gear off the end of the shaft as they require very particular gear pullers to get them off without damaging them. Normally costs a few beers. Pull shifter linkages and mechanism out next (4x bolts where shifter shaft goes in). Pretty sure from here the casing can be split once you undo the one bolt on the front of the gearbox housing - someone correct me if I'm wrong but there's something funny about that one bolt iirc. Pretty easy to pull shafts out and press/pull bearings out of the housings. Can buy a lsd brand new from Toyota around $450 for a standard one or $1250 for a TRD plate type diff. (mark can confirm pricing) Bearings seem to be about $100/ea but Def worth replacing including diff bearings. Just remember to use feeler gauges to measure tolerances between gears/synchros before pulling apart so you don't put the gears back on too tight. You'll need to replace to circlip under 5th gear also when it goes back together these are a one use only circlip. Memory is a bit hazy been 5 years since I rebuilt my old c56. Found a manual online and gave it a go with no precious experience wasn't too hard at all. I highly recommend a TRD diff you won't regret it helps the handling of the car so much. Also Kaaz and cusco do similarly priced diffs too, Kaaz being slightly better quality imo but slightly more expensive too
  4. Rhyscar
    Here is a seal showing the inner face it seals on (they cross hatched type looking one) - pic looks slightly exaggerated might be from an MR2 box but it looks pretty much the same And see the shoulder on the shaft here that it seals on (at bottom left of pic - sorry couldn't find a bigger one) To be sure of installed location of that shoulder you could take shaft out, measure to inner seal from hanger bearing mating face then measure corresponding shoulder length on shaft from same hanger bearing mating face. Another thing thats caught me out before is having an extra dowel on a box/block where it didn't have a hole for one. Meant the last 5mm never pulled up as it bottomed out on the dowel. That ended badly with suspected run bearings but I always check any new bellhousing now! something worth checking out anyway. There are two different hanger bearing brackets - one for auto and one for manual, although the auto ones are 4-6mm out of alignment and make it pretty near impossible to install the driveshaft unless you are being super rough with it. The one that was in the car was definitely a manual one so I wouldn't worry about it.
  5. Rhyscar
    I had that same thing happen when I put that box in.Turned out to be an hard old seal that was cracked. Replaced the gearbox seal and it stopped leaking. The seal doesn't do its 'sealing' against the dust cover, there is about 10mm of flat shaft on the driveshaft before it drops down to the spline which it seals on so its location can be +/-2mm and it would still seal fine. If you are careful with getting the seal out of the one which was in the car you should be able to reuse it. If not get hold of corollaGT he will get you one fairly reasonably priced! Sucks about the synchros. Never had any issues with shifting and with my other cars these synchros seem to take quite a beating before they give up. Getting the master bled correctly can sometimes be tricky/time consuming if it has gulped some air.
  6. Rhyscar
    I did the exact same trip in my coon a year ago but in reverse. I've got pics in the exact same places as yours almost exactly to where you parked... haha bringing back good memories. Glad to see you enjoying the car it makes me much happy. Make sure you do the road from Wanaka over to Haast its amazeballs. Best road I found while I was down there - slightly better than hooning around Caitlyns. Did it in about 1hr 15mins I was trying quite hard and managed to wear through 5mm of tyre tread in the 300 odd kms had to get a new set when I got to Invercargill.
  7. Rhyscar
    Car is located in lower hutt. Fully understand if too much of a pain in the arse. Pretty sure sunday will be fine - just checking
  8. Rhyscar
    Thanks heaps man. Will talk to the guy and see if tomorrow suits him and find out what part of town he is in. I'll fly down first thing on the sat morn so should be pretty hassle free.
  9. Rhyscar
    Hey Oser's Just doing some fishing if someone can help me out. Have bought a lush daily to kick around in but it is looking unlikely I will be able to get down there this weekend to pick it up but can make it next weekend. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1129017317&open_homes=&region=&district= So if someone has the means of picking up a car and storing it for a week it would be awesome. Will return the favour in beer and/or parts transport from anywhere up here down the country when I fly down if that would help anyone out? If anyone is keen I'd be super grateful. Cheers, Rhys
  10. Rhyscar
    some silicone sealant will work fine? Get the 300deg rated stuff and it'll never leak..
  11. Rhyscar
    Good to know. Wonder if there are any units that have already been approved? Quite a few rally cars have them but most aren't certed with them in..
  12. Rhyscar
    Design approval for the manufacture of the internal gearing/shafts or for the mounting of it? I was under the impression they were a big no-no
  13. Rhyscar
    Thanks heaps man! legend
  14. Rhyscar
    Not entirely convinced. Thoughts?
  15. Rhyscar
    Whats happening here?
  16. Rhyscar
    125 deg is OK for your oil as long as your aware it will break down quicker the more time it spends over 100deg. We've seen up to 170deg after 2 laps with a looped oil cooler lines (due to hole in cooler). Brand new motul V300 was toast after 2 laps at this temp and had to throw it away for next race (smells burnt as shit and weird consistency) Big difference between the brands of coolers. Mocal are OK but over 15-20deg less when using a setrab/greddy seem to be the best. Try over filling the diff by as much as you can to help keep everything lubed up during cornering. We use the redline shockproof in my daily coon and the rally car. Both take a beating and seem to handle it OK. Not convinced on the redline though have seen some pretty nasty wear in different applications. Don't know if that could be put down to the oil though.. Motul is the closest spec to TRD you will find. Worth its weight in gold (toyota might do it relatively cheap - I know they do motul brake fluid cheap as!). Weir performance make new CW+P's in the states. Bout $300usd isn't so bad. I'm ordering a 5.1 for the rally car soon... Don't buy shit oil kids. Also love this car. Please enjoy more.
  17. Rhyscar
    Beginnings of shaping some things. Airbox Sandwich
  18. Rhyscar
    Clearance isn't as bad as I was worrying about Starting to shape an airbox that will fit in the cutout below and the inlet for it will be on the passenger side. I'll still consider using a curved trumpet depends on how the airbox comes out. I'm still aware a curved trumpet may help airflow within the airbox considerably but will see if I can make these trumpets work first. I'll use a half sized civic radiator in the middle somewhere and oil cooler on the left. I'm keen to vent each one through the bonnet to make sure engine bay temps don't get too high. May need to make sure I create enough of a low pressure area for bonnet vent that cooling isn't hindered at high speed.. hmm Time to start a carbon fibre manufacturing facility in my shed I think. Should be interesting
  19. Rhyscar
    Always wondered how light this was. I always wanted it to be this light but never thought it would actually. Kinda explains why it hauls ass with relatively small amount of power.
  20. Rhyscar
    I recently bought a Hitachi rattle gun and drill combo kit. Came with 2x 5ah batteries and charger all for around $850. Can't beat that value in my book. 250Nm is pretty good but struggles with uber tight stuff. MarKku's Makita gun was rated about the same and seems to have a bit more grunt/different impact motion and got some of the tighter stuff undone a bit easier. In saying that this was when mine was brand new. Seems to be going better and better the more I use it. Having same batteries for rattle gun/drill is amazeballs. Never thought I'd use the drill but its the best thing I've ever bought for the shed. Talk to Markku. He knows everything about this subject.
  21. Rhyscar
    Thats cool I'm pretty confident they would be completely fine going off all the testing and info I've come across before. 3D printing is something I'm sure we will utilise more and more in the near future. Yeah those small filters really hold us back in the intake department. Would be nice to have long staggered trumpets but means sealing the whole area and working out how to filter the air etc etc. Def in the too hard basket for now.
  22. Rhyscar
    Didn't end up running new trumpets in the end. Engine was running well for a change and didn't want to risk anything not being right with them - either not handling the heat or restricting airflow. Its something that we will have the R&D a bit further before we are comfortable to run in a rally situation. As you know during a rally the oddest things pop up as issues cause most racecars don't have to complete a couple hundred KM's at a time so better to be safer than sorry. Rollcage is pretty pooped. Bar above windscreen is bananna'd which has pulled the pillar bars in. We always knew the cage was pretty weak as its an oldschool bolt in design. Actually kinda glad to build a new one we always wanted to but didn't want to go through the hassle. As his day job, Nick builds a few cages and his engineering is really top notch these days so it will be the flashest cage you'll ever see in a ke20! Was all over in a matter of 1-2 secs from it being 'OK we are running a bit wide but will bounce back onto the road...' till the obligatory 'ahh fuck' moment. Wasn't super high speed or anything nasty like that.
  23. Rhyscar
    Yeah was a cold day. Nice going. Always a good day when things go well! Not sure if the shell can be saved yet. Need to strip body and cut the cage out before assessing what can and can't be fixed. You can pretty extensively repair a rally car I've seen much worse than this come out fairly straight.
  24. Rhyscar
    Bit of a shit day rallying. Ran a bit wide into a tight blind left hander from top of 3rd gear. Turns out there was already another car in the same spot. Bounced into gutter which tipped us on the drivers side and slid into the back of their car. Rear tail light came through windscreen. Next step is to figure out how far we need to go to fix it. Will be getting a new cage but not sure how much of pillars etc is usable. First crash. Definitely a learning experience. Fun times. Will upload some videos later in the week of some of the good bits.
  25. Rhyscar
    haha yeah would of been nice to make it past the second stage! same bloody stage the motor blew up on last time too. Must be cursed. How did your day pan out?
×
×
  • Create New...