bonkas

Some short vids I took "fairly" recently.

Front covers have been sourced and chopped to fit, thanks to the peeps on here who donated some bits!

I have a catch can mounted too, Thanks to @Geophy for making sure I didnt butcher the whole thing!

Holy late update batman. Will grab some recent pics if I have some and post them up.

34 minutes ago, tortron said:

deck block, machine pistons to suit and smooth out the dome and valve pockets for better flow and to prevent hot spots. All of this would have been avoided if the pistons were correct.

 

I wonder if it's like my GN, with the dome and the squish bands it gets a weird flame front and "pings", improved with higher octane, and then again with modding the squish areas

Yup all of this was done. It is a bit annoying to be running higher compression than we wanted, all of these work around could have been avoided. But, I think we are in a pretty good place now, car is running good enough now I have made a few longer journeys in it without issue.

Sorry for the late reply, due to covid and everything getting cancelled and life getting in the way I havent been logged into the forum a while to realise there were replies to this thread!

Car is pretty much unchanged but I am driving it around.

Mileage is pretty poor, I get about 230km from a full tank.

bucking issues come and go, I still beleive it is timing related, had to back timing off a lot as was pinging on dyno and going up hills etc. had the carbs tuned the best I could afford (dyno time, tuner and spare parts are not cheap!) the issue is still there but not as extreme.

It has started an oil leak from the front crank seal, replaced with new seal but still leaking so I am not sure I am able to make it to a drag day with this issue. Hoping a speedy sleeve will resolve this issue as the seal over the years has worn a bit of a groove in the shaft, even positioning the deal a few mm back and forward of it default seating location has not helped.

Are you going to the nats in march @Roman I will be there if you wanted to take a look.

@johnny.raceUnfortunately the car got sold before I could arrange a look

Hey Guys,

Had my car written off recently and need to get a replacement for work, I have my eye on one but need someone to check a few details for me - Due to L3 where I am I cant go check it out myself..

Located in Palmerston North.

PM me for details - I will pay you back for your time somehow, cash, food, booze whatever.

Thread dredge... Not sure if your still around @Benno - How far along did you get with this? was it ever completed?

It's a non-ballast coil, there is also no ballast resistor in my setup.

What is the go with Hall Effect or Magnetic Pickup distributors? It seems you cant run the high output transistor type coils (~0.5ohm primary Bosch HEC715/716 or MEC717/718 for example) but should run the medium output type type (Bosch MEC723 ~1.1ohm primary) as you will burn out the switching module.

Reason I ask is I have put a GT40 coil on my electronic dizzy but getting intermittent spark - Have managed to get it started twice and flattenned the battery trying, Installing the old coil restores spark.

Do I need a MEC transistor type coil as replacement? I am trying to get rid of engine hunting at idle/low RPM - Tuner thinks it might be coil as I have a weak spark.

This is on a 4g63 with dizzy from a L200

I will be there! Be good to meet some of you lot!

What is the go with Hall Effect or Magnetic Pickup distributors? It seems you cant run the high output transistor type coils (~0.5ohm primary Bosch HEC715/716 or MEC717/718 for example) but should run the medium output type type (Bosch MEC723 ~1.1ohm primary) as you will burn out the switching module.

Reason I ask is I have put a GT40 coil on my electronic dizzy but getting intermittent spark - Have managed to get it started twice and flattenned the battery trying, Installing the old coil restores spark.

Do I need a MEC transistor type coil as replacement? I am trying to get rid of engine hunting at idle/low RPM - Tuner thinks it might be coil as I have a weak spark.

Let me know if I should put this in a new topic but seemed related to the topic.

@governorsam Keen on Amiga if it's for sale.

I have had many old machines over the years, thinking of trying to track some old machines down to relive my childhood.

I current have a fully working C64, A C64 with suspected faulty memory and a Amiga1200.

I use the Lucas High Zinc Hot Rod oil as recommended by engine builder after I ran my engine Penrite High Zinc run in oil, switched to normal GTX 20-40 after run in period and instantly had valve train failure, after switching to the Lucas I have had 0 issues.

My 2c

https://lucasoil.com/products/hot-rod-high-performance

Compression test came out with 195psi in Cylinder #1 (Suspected no issues) and 200psi on Cylinder #2 (Suspected issues). So no compression issues there...

Re-did valve lash, some were a bit tight and some were a tad loose, gave it a tickle anyway but have still not been able to get rid of the tapping and rattling in the top end, may just have to live with it, or maybe convert back to hydraulic lifters as I am not revving the thing to the moon like I originally envisioned...

Valve stems all looking good.

Few minor things to tidy up:

• Front engine covers to keep the grime out
• Mount catch can

Maiden voyage to wellington this weekend!

Carbs all tuned and within 1% of the tuners target Air/Fuel Ratio.

After some final tests we noticed a very noisy valve and cylinder #2 appears to be down on compression.

Will be doing a compression test this weekend but may not be looking very good... here we go again....

Have gone from 38mm to 36mm Venturi's/Chokes - This has ironed out the fuel curve but now a bit rich.

Was a mission to get the old ones out as someone had over tightened the locking screws and mis-shaped the venturi and carb housing, had to re hone it for the new venturi to fit back in.

Going in this afternoon to swap my main jets and re-check air/fuels and get the carbs balanced.

Dunno 'bout drag day @Roman but will definitely be at 2020 nats!

The bucking misfiring feeling when cruising has put me off driving it too far. This was not an issue before they dicked with my distributor so I suspect it's timing related.

It does seem quick but the slow gearbox and my slow brain make for some very slow gear changes and the gears run out fast haha.

Also @Roman the voltage seems to have settled down to about 13.9-14.4v now, not sure what was going on, flat battery doing wierd stuff?

Small update again.

Got some dyno time in to get these carbs sorted. I made ~170HP a 5000rpm, I couldn't go higher due to being too lean, tuner seems to think changing from 38 to 36 chokes/venturi's should fix this, Have these ordered and will see.

For some reason they also reversed the distributor modifications I had so I could reach the peak timing without vacuum advance... I am now getting surging and bucking (feels like a really bad misfire) when cruising at 100k - You guy got any ideas? Fuel? Timing? The timing is 10 degrees static and 32 full advance at 3krpm.

Some info I have dug up from the manual for the vehicle. 

Tested the Tridon part - Still giving a wonky gauge.

Tested the sender on another vehicle of same make/model - Shows ~10-20 ohms when switched off which is the correct behavior according to the manual.

@RanterGrabbed another brand new sender unit off the shelf which was listed as the correct part for my make/model of vehicle.. surprise surprise, same part number as what I already have and... open circuit.

I tested the sender unit off a V8 and it is showing ~10 ohms also at 0 PSI also so might source one of these.

Something like this should work a treat. https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/vdo-oil-pressure-sendr-unt-1000kpa/SPO4174883.html

it seems Supercheap stock a few of these VDO senders:

http://www.vdo.net.au/media/189570/2016-vdo-catalogue.pdf

@Ranter - Was this off a vehicle with a gauge or just a warning light? I am also getting open circuit with your sender unit and a wonky gauge.

Strange as the gauge is behaving as it should when grounded or left open...

I now have a TPS005 which is also showing open circuit, have yet to install in the vehicle.

Well she's back up and running again.

Head went back to engine builders to get some shims installed al align the adjusters more to the center of the valves, added more of a radius on the adjuster, changed the type of oil I am running.

Found the new valves have more of a contact patch on the valve also as the original set had a large chamfer but the new set is much much smaller.

Hoping with the above modifications it will not happen again. Engine builder seems to think the oil I was running could have contributed to the issue.

19 hours ago, BobbyBreeze said:

Is the rocker tip sweeping off the edge of the valve stem and into the chamfer? Certainly needs looking at carefully, I'd be getting out the engineers blue and looking at the sweep over the valve stem and the adjuster. Looks to me like the base circle has been dropped quite a bit with the added lift, which lifts the rocker arm up at the valve end. So you wind out the adjuster to make up this clearance but now the adjuster tip moves outwards on the valve stem. Not much you can do to fix that on this motor unless you hardface the follower pad at the other end of the rocker. Lash caps might help too but I am sure Kelford can help you out with this.  

Large radiused tip adjusters are certainly a good idea seeming you've got like 5mm more lift than OEM. Those L200 ones look the ticket. Worth spending $8 to find out. 

p.s. nice Big cam! 

Edit/ 4g63 sohc don't have a cam tunnel haha 

I will be checking all these things, I have ordered a set of the L200 adjusters also but wont be here until late next month unless I can find a new set locally.

I am hoping to send the head to Kelfords for a second look also.

Cam Specs: