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azzurro

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Everything posted by azzurro

  1. azzurro
    Drove this poor neglected thing to charge the battery up. Its been pretty wet and wild
  2. azzurro
    I havnt updated this since nats! Here are some nats related pics...
  3. azzurro
    grrrr! looks kinda like < > but blue major body work completed! Then painted the interior, a light grey same as the engine bay and as per the few original patches you can see not covered in 'tacky brown'. That rusty coloured stuff all over everything is actually some sort of aftermarket cavity wax that has worked very well where it was, so i just went and enscapulated it. Cleaning with paint! primer coat 1 grey top coat. I then rattle canned the black things black and even managed to put a couple of minor interior grommets and things back on!
  4. azzurro
    Oi! 125 Sedans need some wet to get one wheel going too!
  5. azzurro
    Shit there is some sweet cars on your street. Noice werk cobba
  6. azzurro
    Sorry Rusti. in my defence it was totally wazzing down (actually mostly sideways)
  7. azzurro
    If its not totally weeing down i might
  8. azzurro
    Hah, it was meant to be! The black visor i swapped you just needs a slight trim to change the angle it sits at, but its otherwise perfect fit on my wagon which is pretty good going! thanks also to the OS express! What are you doing about the sunroof hole?
  9. azzurro
    Just a quicky, Valance quilting, DONE Rust Cut stitching and indicator/park light bracket installed, CHECK. So, I have now finished all* the welding on this. In the tradition of my 125 build, "take that, you rusty f@&ker!" :drunk: *Obviously i mean 'mostly', other than a few touch ups (and the inevitable forgotten or missed bit) including a couple i can see in these shots Next job, filler
  10. azzurro
    This weekend I got as far as tacking the rust cut on ater remaking the lower half of the headlight bucket. Valance is also back together but my potato couldnt get a good shot after pushing it back into its spot. /*/*/ I went and picked up these or the 125 yesterday from up north, had a good yarn to the seller who is about to get his 125 back on the road. While i was up there I also pickup up another couple of projects : This Rat-leigh 20 (to go with the Mrs' mint Healing Cruiser) from a guy who might also buy a few of my surboards, and this which I found in a pile of rubbish by the road Which is now sorted with new brake pads and a tidy up for some as yet unknown little charger to do some mean skids.
  11. azzurro
    Cheers bro! I pretty much do as per this guy, but nowhere near as good. http://www.build-threads.com/build-threads/thai-kombi-restoration/ tap tap tappetty tap. Hammers, cold chisel and other formers (sockets, bit of wood, anvil, vice) to suit. The finish you get is a function of the time spent, and many small taps is better than a couple of big ones. But Im a rough cunt and in a hurry Basic process is/was: mark out sheet. pay attention to the edge and inner bends of the indents. These ones have a flat base so need two bends = 2 lines (inner and outer) Preferebly on both sides, but esp on the side you will be hitting (denting) - i didnt make any allowance for 'pulling in' on the floor panel (ieally it should stretch the metal at the indent) but smaller bits might be best to leave a bit extra on the edges to trim afterwards set up the vice to open to the width of the outer line, and with a chisel head hammer or ball peen slowly hit along the inner line keep going up and down slowly forming the bends, the hits on the inner line pulling the metal over the vice jaws into the indent once you have a nice indent, flip it over on an anvil and planish the piece up to the outside edge. lip it again and planish the base of the indent to the inner edge repeat steps 3-6 as required. I formed the radiused ends and flattened off the base nice and even with a socket. The trick i reckon is taking it easy on the hammer, tappy taps are the way to go, keep tapping and flipping it then it will just happen.
  12. azzurro
    Patch work quilted up the original down pipe with a section of pipe with a joint already in it, welded the other joiner end (and some patches) into the parts car exhaust, and installed it. i installed the fuel tank from the parts car after a clean out and the sender from the original tank the other day so as its now down off the stands and away from the wall, I also connected up the fuel tank/pump piping in the engine bay incl with a filter but i have to get some gas and remember to prime it to see how slow and boring it sounds now */*/*/* Also cut my very first rust section out of the parts car for the very* last** rusty area on the project car. Rust traps! I wish i could say thats all done but ive got a few fiddly patches to make one good one out of two and a lot of careful measuring to do yet! Check out this area in behind the valance/bumper mount/radiator support. One bonus is its going to be easy to sort this properly with all the other bits out of the way. Guess which one is the parts car
  13. azzurro
    Cheers bro. That is the worst bit of rust on the car and nearly the last of it - only have the drivers headlight and valance to do now then a few more skims of filler then paint. Its easy when you say it fast! Bunged the parts car exhaust on just before and fitted the fuel tank from it the other day. Nice to be putting bits back on. I will probably move the parts car back to the crack of doom now that i didnt end up using any body sections!
  14. azzurro
    Then the cross member. The factory part is crazily complicated becasue in the 'De luxe' version its a rear passenger foot warmer. My car is not deluxe, but has the heater and the vents just missing the section over the tunnel between them. Managed to reuse the factory 'airbox' parts It does make the part signiicantly stronger if nothing else. The factory contruction is 4 rectangular holse with 2 on the rear and 3 on the front covered by a plate spotted over them. WHy? I dont know, so i didnt do that. IT FITS! Then the tunnell strengthening plate. I dont have a bead roller but i do have hammers and a vice and a bit of rod to make the ribs. Flattened out and then bent the other way, plus drill a lot of holse in it. I made this a bit bigger than factory to pick up on the cross members instead of the middle of the floor. BAM! - and the rust is gone I did reuse the remains of the cover plate. Just the drivers headlight area to go and thats all the rust! I have yet to chop any sections off the parts car, other than the exhaust which I faffed around with this evening and is going on next.
  15. azzurro
    Havnt updated for a while but havnt been doing nothing. sigh. nothing or it but to keep cutting till its clean steel. Cut it all out Floor panel pattern. Pretty sure this is the first panel installed on the chassis, it is under all the other panels and was a pain to get out and install spotted in and primered
  16. azzurro
    Heh, I have a MAAASSSSIVE stack of the fine grit 'Warrior' branded flap discs that come with the multi packs - I only ever used the coarse ones, (5 per pack) still way cheaper than a single name brand flap wheel. Tho, TBH I did buy some 40grit bosch ones and they do work better and last longer, but Im also tending to take the high points off with a grinding wheel first casue they flaps are much more expensive Stripper discs for paint/bog as they don't remove the metal and I find the flap discs are a it crap for removing paint cleanly anyway. However stripper disc do wear out fast and they are quite expensive so get as much as you can off with paint stripper or a wire wheel first? For metal - Take high points off with grinder wheel - Smooth welds with Flap Disc/shaping - Power file in hear to reach areas - Final run over with 40 grit on DA sander to blend welded area into surrounding metal - if you done it right the above steps makes the weld invisible - Im at about 50% on the invisibleness of my finished welds, but im more interested in making a solid (ie not rust) base for a thin skim of filler than making a concourse coachbuilt resto. Getting that extra 50% would take about 200% more time, which for me would almost all be in setting up the patch 'just so'.
  17. azzurro
    then the welder ran out of gas.
  18. azzurro
    cheers bro, picked up a couple of bits of angle iron a while ago to add to my metal bending and shaping 'kit' - made a big difference to the quality of my long straight bends! the real trick is flap discs
  19. azzurro
    Another angle of the sill closing shenaigans, also showing the outer sill less the end cap. No wonder they rust out here. 3 knife edge plug welded seams (triple thickness) all facing the rear of the tyre with a couple of pockets to collect grime. Just like it lest the factory... With the door off i can remove the rest of the sill and clean up everthing a bit sill outer test fitted to size up the end cap (i forgot to allow for the lip that plugs to the inner sill! ) a bit extra added to the patch including the end cap, mostly buzzed on and first grind back not bad! The fender on this side is a replacement , im guessing a fender bender based on the gobs of leading i melted from the repairs in the bottom front valance
  20. azzurro
    cheers dudes, definitly keeping the sign writing, the trick has been trying to do the repairs well but not over do the surrounding areas or clean up every scratch. Im a bit worried it might look like its got a fresh respray with old doors bunged on it (which is pretty literally what is going to happen) but i dont want it to look like that if you know what i mean. i foresee some terrible 'how to fake patina' videos on youtube in my future.
  21. azzurro
    Prodding away at this, couple hours here and there instead of watching dribble on TV adds up, havnt taken many photos tho. front end of the inner sill back in place. Small section in the bottom corner of the firewall too - i will pull the floor panel out in the next stage and replace it, thats why its still haggard Outer on to the lower kick panel, and lower A-Pillar/strenghtner and a bit in between them you cant see to join them and stop crap going into the sill proper. \ You would never know Now thats done and stronger than its been for years, I have removed the door (still closes, no worse than it was ) to finish off the outer sill area and then make a start on the floor. Also got some new tyres and rims for my model (1:43 Campagnolos are for winners) so i painted them and slammed them on. Just needs a roof rack, monsoons and a visor and it will be perfect
  22. azzurro
    proper job buddy. You deserve a pie. Not just any dried up old meat sack from the servo warmer mind you, a pudding pie. With ice cream.
  23. azzurro
    Lovely. Just lovely. Glad you are actually driving it after making it so fresh and clean! Can you come minty up my shit now please
  24. azzurro
    Pulled the remains of the exhuast off the parts car, wasnt expecting much, but is acutally in pretty good nick (after filling a few hioles) and has a stainless back box, so that will do for WoF. Now that the towing is done, time to remove what little structual rigidity existed in the front right quarter... this is what i looked like before: After my treasure more than a couple of spot welds to drill then i will start adding new steel back in. Like a complicated jigsaw puzzle where you get toi make the pieces. Im going to rebuild the sill to strengthen it up again before removing the floor panel and heater cross member itself. The jack is under one of the cross members to ensure the door still closes nicely!
  25. azzurro
    got this old bus running again after buttoning up the cooling system, and fitting the tow bar Then backed it out in to the sun for the first time in aaages. leetle bit of rake! will hopefully come down with interior etc installed then proceeded to pull the parts car out of its spot (which is over a bit of a hump and slighlty down hill) with it. YO DAWG! I HEARD YOU LIKE 2300 WAGONS SO...etc I had to get Mrs Azzurro to drive the tow car while I 'steered' the parts wagon (by kicking he wheels, as it has no steering box or steering wheel!) and controlled its forwards momentum with wooden blocks. Seems a shame to put an exhaust on it, but in other news, she said she likes driving it So now its in reach of my air hose and extension cord its dismantling time Unfortunately when emptying the boot out (so i can remove the fuel tank - the one that came in the nautilus has a massive dent in it,) the pane of spare hatch glass smashed lucky i have two more i guess.
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