gibbon

Thatd be an easy way to do it except the turbine exit is now divergent due to being ported... it's still doable but a bit trickier. Other option I thought of is a plate blocking the wastegate path on either side of it (one in the turbine outlet and one in the wastegate outlet) with a bolt running between them to clamp them in place

I did wonder about whether it'd be acceptably resistant to erosion. Heat cycling I'm less concerned about, theres hundred year old fireplaces made out of the stuff which seem to hold up ok. Just hope it doesn't break up one day and pepper someone behind me with red hot terracotta The car is in a trillion bits and pending welding surgery so dont expect results for a while unfortunately

Recently I've become fixated on trying to improve the flow through my turbo (td05). I've made a new dump pipe with a separate discharge turbo for the internal wastegate, and now I'd like to block the original path from the wastegate back into the turbine outlet. I've spent a lot of time porting out the housing and it burns my ass that the now-defunct wastegate passage is still there mucking up the flow directly downstream of the exducer Normally I guess you'd just buy a housing with no wastegate provision, or plate over the hole. But I've devised a solution that would make Rangimods proud; how about refractory cement/fire brick? It's good for around 1000c, is as easy to work with as clay (because it pretty much is), has a slightly lower thermal expansion than the cast steel so wont crack the housing, but not so much less that itll rattle out, and the wastegate passage is coarse and irregular enough that it should be able to key into it ok. I could slap a glob of it in the wastegate passage and itd end up with a nice unobstructive finish in the turbine outlet passage Stupid or stupid-clever?

Correct, the dirt needs to be mixed with PVA first so that it can better withstand the suspicious prodding of the techie

It seems like the main discrepancy is over what's considered "structural" - certainly the wee diagram supplied by the WOF guidelines seems to indicate that practically anything in, on or near the car's body is structural, which isn't helping

Ah sweet mine is nowhere near that bad... thought about getting it repaired but didn't want to draw any more attention to it. And yeah in retrospect it's a floor stiffener not a chassis rail... be a bit of a shit chassis rail if it folded up like that... even the sills are thicker

Is there any way to access previous WOF check results for a car? If significant faults are logged against the plate to prevent you from bodgying the car up then going around the corner to the next mechanic, is there any way to access that info, as a new owner of the car? On a completely separate note, some wonderful previous owner appears to have jacked a vehicle of mine by the frame rails (unibody car). How much rail damage might I reasonably get away with?

Pics up, a little hard to get in there but you get the idea. Correct that the "TD" wasn't embossed, whether it was etched at the factory or after the fact I have no idea. I think from the shape of the compressor wheel (uniform blades) we have ascertained that it's a 14b wheel, the turbine side is the real mystery, I'm not sure what turbo it came with originally, is the tc05 exhaust housing the same as a td05? Car is a factory sirius dash intercooled model, so worth playing with I reckon. Previous owner rebuilt the engine, VR4 internals, balance shafts out etc. I used to play with starions a decade ago but I've forgotten pretty much everything. Went to the Starquest forums after buying it, the scene sure has changed. Starions used to always seem to be a but of a poor cousin to the popular cars, not anymore, some serious love and attention going into these things nowadays There's a small 16g complete item on Trademe at the moment, I was thinking of swapping the compressor wheel and housing onto what I already have, just not too sure if it'll end up being a bit choked up, 060 is that little bit smaller. Then again the whole thing may be moot, if I'm aiming for under 300hp I wonder if the 14b wheel wouldn't be a better option anyway.

I dont think you can really say for sure, even the "fresh" gas you got yesterday might have sat in the servo tank for months, and some storage tank for months before that

Thanks for that, yes it sounds like it might well be a 14 wheel. What blade configuration would a td05-12 (no suffix) have? That's the only other thing that might be in there On the turbine side, you say I'd need a new downpipe if I fitted a 16g, by that I assume the housings are different. Does that mean I couldn't fit the 16g cartridge into this 060 housing? I've still got the factory starion downpipe which is pretty restrictive so it would solve two problems by fitting the 16g and changing it

Hi guys just a couple of questions about the turbo on my starion. Spoke to a previous previous owner who said the turbo had been chopped and changed but couldn't remember exactly how. So I'm trying to work out what I've got, what's been done to it, and because I'm bored, what I could potentially do with it. The compressor housing is marked td05-12a, can anyone tell me the visual difference between compressors with suffix a, b, c, g etc?. And can a 12a comp housing be milled out to accept a bigger wheel? Previous guy said it might have a 14g wheel in it but the cover doesn't agree. Also the compressor blades are uniform which I dont think is the g wheel pattern? The turbine housing is marked 060 which is physically small but I think some 90s onwards turbos had it so it's not necessarily an early 80s tc05 relic? IIRC the 060 pertains to max exhaust flow, so would it be a bottleneck if I were to increase compressor size I was considering putting a small 16g td05 on it, but not sure if the turbine housing has the same orientation etc as the old turbos... could get around this by using the existing housing but not sure if itll fit, or if it does, if itll just be a big bottleneck as previously stated

a lot of aircraft engines only have screens rather than spin on filters (although most are converted to them now)... in saying that, we also change the oil every 25 hours

grade 65 aviation engine oil (MIL spec 1065) is an SAE 30 weight non detergent oil.

i guess it wouldnt have, but my engine sat quite vertical. never had any problems with it or clearance problems with the pickup etc, i didnt track the car or subject it to huge g's sideways though

i have a modified rear bulge rb sump on trademe right now search "rb into z"

i just bought an aftermarket exhaust manifold, cut and re-welded the flange. use an inlet manifold from an evo 4+, it bolts on and faces the right way, just got to mod the fuel rail a little bit. havent done the water pipe yet but its just a flange off the back of the head with a tightish angle pipe off it, running to a remote thermostat. im running factory evo ecu, loom and sensors so should be pretty much plug and go to be honest, its probably not really worth it going dohc, i just started doing it because i got bored and noticed all the evo stuff was getting cheap. by the time youve modified the dohc head to a point where the sohc couldn't compete, youd probably start blowing gearboxes and diffs. i think the dohc probably provides smoother power though. lag loses its appeal after a while

you should look into going dohc, its a surprisingly cheap conversion these days

going off what you said about electrics, measure the voltage across the battery terminals when the car is running, should be abot 14.7 volts. wondering if your alternator is acting up

if i recall; 1. is the ignitor box 2. is the ecu itself 3. is the sensor which feeds the boost gauge. this is the only one you can get away without having i'll have a look for a wiring diagram, you might be able to download one via torrent maybe