mjrstar

well this still seems a bit odd.... I'm thinking that even with the slot lined up correctly that i must have had the dizzy slot 180 degrees out last time as the plug leads are now wrong.. Ie it's pointing to #4 instead of #1 when TDC #1 compression.. In other news the cam wheel and guessing max lift with verniers puts the cam at around 108 (give or take) which doesn't seem too bad.. I would have had it back together but the old primary shaft pilot bearing is coozed and it's a matter of waiting for a new one from Oztralia.. It also looks like my non gasket method for the transfer gear case is failburger as it puts too much pre-load on the transfer gear, so waiting for a new gasket set which has the correct gasket this time (hopefully) I think they may have jipped me with an automatic gasket set last time??? the plan is to jam it back in the car and try and figure out the ignition timing...

I had to change over the crownwheel from my new box into the old diff to get things to match up, I also had a bit of a peek inside the engine. All seems ok.. In saying that i am having dramas with the flywheel end crank seal, idler gear tolerance and a stuffed input shaft outer bearing... Pics to follow at some stage. If this shit had gone right today I would have had the engine back in the car tonight..

it could be something non ignition related which is stealing your horsepowers such as a restrictive exhaust etc

Yeah it's running a civic dizzy, so i can't just us the points opening as a good indication so it will involve a bit of hit and miss... It doesn't help that the flywheel has been machined to within an inch of it's life so no-longer has any useful marks either...

wow old post.. Where did the exhaust manifold studs studs etc come from? I'm thinking i should chuck a few new ones in too since mine are looking a bit sad/stuffed...

^ yeah when i do EXACTLY this the camshaft lobes on #1 are making the engine 180 degrees away from the compression stroke. which either means: The camshaft keyway or the timing mark on my cam wheel is 180 degrees out, you may also have forgotten about the geared drive to slot adaptor for the distributor? this is where i was sligtly stumped, but i guess i just need to go along with my inital plan of timing it all up to be 180 degrees out on the timing marks. I also have a plan B to execute which involes doing a rough degreeing of the camshaft with a degree wheel and some verniers on the rockers...

No takers huh, looks like I'll just whack the drive in at a suitable position to slot the dizzy back in so that TDC #1 gives puts the rotor arm facing the lead for #1 plug terminal.

sounds like it could be noisy lifters, maybe try a screwdriver up to your ear to narrow down the source of the noise...

All good thanks chaps, I also now have my own.

So the initial hover car tests have gone quite well... I have the engine and box out, and managed to fill up the car with water whilst giving the engine bay a waterblast, this will not turn into the epic rebuild, just a quick tidy up..(it still seems odd ripping out a prefectly healthy running engine) the new box seems pretty good with the shifter connected, although the gate seems VERY close between 3rd at 1st.. so that could be a bit of a trap.. I have hit a few of the bits with the wire wheel, i did think about getting some stuff powdercoated, but i know the engine will just coat all this crap in oil in no-time so there really is stuff all point. The clutch is still mint so it'll see another round, although the flywheel was a total B@$tard to get off (again) I bent by home made puller which is made out of 8mm plate.. Hopefully it'll be back on the road in a couple of weeks time.

So I wacked the new cam in the mini today but i'm not 100% happy with the timing, it seems like it needs the cam wheel marks 180 degrees out to give compression TDC on #1 cylinder. (fixed position camshaft gears) I have not ajusted down the tappets as yet.... This is probably not a big deal, although it's made me a bit unsure as to where I should be putting the distributor drive back in. (the 2 o'clock position) Do I put it in at TDC#1 Compression,(markd showing 180 degrees out) or with the crank and cam pulley alignment marks adjacent. Car in question is my 1275 based mini engine, with a brand new 296 Kent MD camshaft on a non adjustable twin row timing gear. Cheers Matt

^^ Yeah there seems to be a few stories out there about the various 1G pistons... Let me know if you are consideering a rebuild, I have done a fair bit of research on the easiest bits to source, and I'm pretty sure I have a spare custom made 3 layer headhasket stashed somewhere...

the 1G+t is a viable option, mine was running 20 psi (and occasionally 24psi) and took a serious beating at some track days. I pulled it to bits as i thought i had damaged something, but as it turned out it was a small bit of turbo impaled in the head causing a mild tapping noise. The problem with these motors tends to be oil lube on #1 and #6 big ends, don't skimp on oil and filter changes, and keep under 7500rpm and it'll be all super.. another issue with the +t will be the oil feed for the turbos, the oil pressure sender location is on the left hand side, there is probably a picture on my project thread.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 445685.htm this was pretty well priced, but will not work with the current gearbox (i think)

^^ You really need a dual port wastegate to get the best out of the Norgren relief valve set-up, although they can work like a normal old boost tap on a single port set-up.

I believe the use of sprung loaded guards may help.. ie: a piece of nylon/teflon for the tyre to rub against which in turn pushes the guard out to give desierd clearance.

undo top engine mount loosen bottom engine mounts and try to lean the motor forward? You should have a bit of give without removing the driveshafts.

^^ I have sent you a PM... Cheers.

Hi Guys, I'm after a loan of an engine crane/lifter to extract the motor and box out of my mini, happy to provide beers for the privelidge etc.. Alternatively if someone has a second hand one for sale I could also be keen. Drop me a PM. Cheers Matt

^^ Pretty unkeen on a 2nd hand one and running the risk of a minor/major chrush injury? although don't really know too much about the other pro's and cons associated with what you get in different price ranges.

I'm in 2 minds about spending 4-5 k for something that I'd probably use less than a dozen times a year. We'll see... I might just make some rash decision.

^^ I'd imagine so, I only have a couple of meters running along the front of the workbench and cabinets.. I do need some double sided tape or something to tack it down on the edges a bit

Will it be hard wearing enough to cope with stone rash and mashed in bugs? Also that stuff can be a bit of haven for moisture/rust.

Wings = Front guards? It will require some reasonably patient/fine surgery to the front seams but can be done...

Please fit a later model Japanese dizzy and never have to look at again.