BlownCorona

New light bulbs, 4 times the brightness of the old ones, so good! (compare it with the above photos of the car mid paint job to see just how gloomy it was. Some pretty heavy duty heaters borrowed from work and screwed to the roof. Car sanded down and masked, cleaned a few times, will clean some more and tack cloth it in the morning before I spray base and clear for the 2nd and hopefully last time!

I'll get around to my parents place at some stage and see what I've got stashed.

i think i have two sets of this grill if its of any interest. i may only have one sedan grill and the coupe grill fitted to my sedan in which case i wont let it go incase i ever bend the front end, but if i have two sedan grills like i recall id be happy to sell one. however. are you sure itll fit? these are all the face lifted rt81 or rt84 cars, and yours is the rt80.

that was the original dissusion haha. and rattle cans without some sort of UV protection on them can get in the bin. i did spray the advan livery on my mates mx5 with rattle cans and 2k clear overtop. it came out bloody mint, though has showen adhesion issues between the rattle can and clear in some areas (could have been a clenliness or technique issue though). the whole job cost less than 300 bucks, was done in less than 48 hours and has lasted years. all paint zero vinyl.

yeah i get what youre saying too with the thin and thick. has given me something to think about for sure. could almost look powercoated which might look weird. but also im not sure if hes going to mind really. itll be a drivers car not a show pony. i dont really want to rattle can it cause in 6 months itll look like a chalkboard. pl;us all the glass and trim are off currently, so prime time to spray it. its not had a respray as far as im aware, but has had rust repairs and some dents fixed up. ill hopefully by collecting the car this afternoon so will have a better idea. might price up both options and see what he wants to do. agree with Bling, this thread has been pure gold for the back yard hacks

though im pretty sure the factory paint is straight white with no pearl or anything, ill have to see what it arrives.

ill take all that into consideration for sure base over clear is an option. its an 80s celica '84 i think.

i may not have explained it properly. (and i also havnt laid eyes on the car in real life yet so things may change) but the car has had a heap of body work done already and its quite straight now. we will definitley sand it with sanding blocks, but we dont want to go to the effort of sanding down hi fill primer and getting the thing dead straight like ive done with the crown, we simply dont have that sort of spare time (which is why the crown has taken my 9 months and counting to paint) and dad just wants a cool old Toyota to drive around in again, he was just going to rattle can white over the repaired spots untill i convinced him to put something somewhat decent on it. its also a budget thing.

i think its me and hayden coming down to surprise dad. dad thinks hes driving down to get the car tomorrow.

9 years ago

So my dad bought a pretty cool old toyota. and it needs painting, we just want it a nice solid crisp white and as budget as possible. so were keen to use 2k white, and especially after seeing MrMk1s struggles with his datsun, but ultimate success using baslac. we'll go with that product. my question is what sort of primer should i use underneath it. the car is plenty straight enough, but we dont want to go to the hassle of fill primer and blocking it back. so just want a primer to go under the 2k white and call it a day. we want the car on the road, not in the garage! also basic technique for this system? what grit sandpaper should the body be done in before the primer, and then what grit sand paper (if at all?) should we scuff the primer to before the 2k topcoat? cheers! and another question back related to the crown. ive dont a bunch more reading and watching videos and came across someone saying that the new age high solid 2k clears only need two coats? is that true, because if so, i think i found the root cause of my issues, i put about 5 coats of clear on (and i also dont think i allowed enough flash time). because thats what i would have done with 1k clear when ive done motorbike tanks ect and never had issues with runs. but never considered the fact that that product used alot more solvent. how many coats of clear would you recommend? Cheers again!

totally agree on the blitz ss. had one on my old charade turbo and it was such a crisp sounding valve. so stoked dads engine is going into this, it was sad to remove it from his s110 race car.

i might have an uncracked dash and unpainted dials i could be convinced to part with if you want to go down that route. id have to go look in my pile of spares to see whats exactly there though. but shit at least bathe those dials in thinners! holy shit!

Yup, nothing flash, but nice and tidy just to get it all sealed up and driving ASAP. I'll have a hunt for any potential build thread to continue. It wasn't Ryan fels old one was it? I remember a white ta60 being on the forum years back. /Thread hijack sorry. As you were, though he bought a corona in the end so good decisions all round.

It's a friken cool car man it'll go like a cut cat with that motor, and I'm super excited for the car dad bought from you. I should get him to put a build thread up on here as we finish it off and get it on the road.

oh man, you made the right choice! but im heavily biased

The clearcoat was such a disaster and although I had good success in sanding most of them out, on several prominent areas I had cut through to the basecoat. Which also cast alot of doubt on how thick the remaining clear was. I probably could have just touched up those areas, but coupled with a few other defects such as some spots that were a little light on basecoat that I wasn't sure how to fix, I made the call to restart the paint. So I set to cutting the whole car back and will hopefully learn my lessons from round one. The bumpers are good so I'll leave them as is, which will mean I've got heaps more room in the shed. If I hadn't already, this car is firmly cemented as a forever car. Despite the horrific amount of elbow grease I've had to put in, I still love it. Can't wait for it to be back on daily duty.

Yeah just the clear, though there is one micro spot where primer has shown. I'm not finished yet so this could change. I was told by another pro that since its metallic, unless I blow over more base the sanded through bits will show up clearly? And when you put water over the areas, they don't dissappear. Unfortunately on closer inspection, I've gone through on quite a few areas so it's going to be a whole car job again I thinks. It's not just more important than ever that I get the clear right, and I'm quite worried about this, but have learnt a bunch of lessons

ive been told by a professional painter mate, that ill probably need to lay down more basecoat otherwise itll show up where its rubbed through (several pretty prominent places unfortunatly) and the paint is very metalic im pretty sure i have enough basecoat to do this, but can always grab another litre and mix it in before i start so its 100% the same all over. im just super worried about fucking it up again. though ive learnt some lessons. so maybe not too bad. ~fuck~

Damn, so I've almost certainly gone through the clear in a few spots. What's the go with prepping the surface for reclear coating? I really really don't want it to peel off in a year or two.

+1 to that method. Did these the same way and they were in pretty poor condition, started with sand paper. Didn't go mirror finish, cause yuck, but you could if you wanted that. They are actually covered in sanding dust from my other car so are a bit shinier than this pic shows, but the method works great.

Dad's race car had an old link lem and it worked well, plus was period correct cool. It went like a cut cat, but after smashing the ring lands to peices, we discovered a bleed valve had been fitted and boost turned up above what it was tuned for, before we got it, it had been leased out and we suspect that's who fitted the fucking thing. Not sure if it went with the engine when it sold or not but could very well be the same, I think he kept it though. Personally id go with the pillarless kitset in Nelson. Sounds like a good winter project, and looking at the sedan, you'll probably pull it all apart making it nice anyway. Edit, I see the link available is in Wellington, if you end up with one, and dad kept his, he could be interested in selling it, likly complete with z18 loom from his s110.

dad just sold his z18et and a couple manual gearboxs for *i think* $600. it was disassembled due to damaging a piston in his race car. and we struggled to find replacement parts for it, so made the call to go SR20. though the z18 was cooler. in the end he did manage to track down all the parts required to rebuild it, and a guy whos probably on here, bought it to put into his really cool 2 door bluebird, the type with the folded corners in the rear glass. might be making a z20 turbo hybrid or something but im not sure. i think the price on the engine was pretty fair, it sure is a cool engine, but its not an rb26/2jz monster ect so i dont think they are a super valuable engine, just rarer than usual

You can also spend a little money and get the Ford laser valve cover which is a retro looking fined cover and would immediately make this engine look at home in an old car. I also just noticed that one has a supercharger, which reminds me, these engines love boost even in stock form. Heaps of info online about moding the Mazda b6

Ordered online from the smits group/spray store website. Prices were what I was happy to pay and from the first place I found shipping. No idea if it's the cheapest or best place to get it. I've been flatting back the clear this weekend, gave that bog trick a go and it does work pretty well, but was super slow going. I later went back and re watched the video, he started sanding with wet 320 and said you could even use 240 and best I had was 400 so that's probably why, I was getting worried that the extra effort required to cut down through the filler would end up with me rubbing through the clear on the perimeter of the filler. Didn't happen thankfully. But since I noticed all the runs while I was still painting and stacked on a few extra layers, it's actually been really easy to cut them out with a careful hand and just the wet sand paper. I havnt been able to track down any razors, but I'm not sure I'll need them. Results so far are super good and it's looking like the whole job may come out bloody nice once finished. About 35% done with flattening the car, then have to move through the gritts which will be pretty quick. Then polishing fun, which, fingers crossed will be super rewarding after all the work.