Jump to content

Adoom

Members
  • Posts

    2164
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Adoom

  1. I have a reamer, it's huge, had to get it from the US, cost me over $200. It is the correct taper because it machined a perfect fit taper in aluminium. I did it in the drill press, so it could have been too fast, or not enough pressure... or too much pressure. I think if I figure out the problem and try clean up the existing hole, the balljoint will go in too deep. Early on I did try machine the taper, but it was such an awkward shape to fit in the lathe and I could not get the taper angle perfect, so I bought the reamer(the CCM says it has to be reamed anyway). I think I'll have to try machine some test tapers in steel until I can make a good one before I scrap another thing I spent hours machining first. I probably need to go REALLY slow.
  2. I'm loving the shape of that cab..... want an old truck now. I ain't got no inside space or money.
  3. Made a couple of holes and a slot so I can cut the corner off so I've got space to fit the long 13mm drill. Here it is with the alloy prototype. I've drilled the pilot hole for the balljoint tapered hole. And milled the mounting faces to the right heights. Cut a corner off because I no longer need that bit as a reference surface. It takes aaaaaages to cut on the bandsaw. Buuuuuut, this one might be scrap When I reamed the tapered hole, it made an octagon and I'm not sure why. It worked fine on the softer aluminium. I suppose I could try build up the walls of the hole with weld, then re-drill and try cut the taper again. At least it wouldn't take as long as starting again.
  4. Finally put one of the steel blocks in the mill. At least 2 hours of face milling later, I faced all the long sides and got it down to the starting dimensions. It's pretty hot now. I took about 6mm off the face and one long side. I still need to mill at least one short end flat because I need to use it as a reference surface. I also made a mess. And melted some new holes in my gloves with hot swarf.
  5. Making the other side. The milled cut-outs are to clear the raised sections of the floor. Ready to weld. Well I'd better go procrastinate some more and have a drink and update my OS thread.
  6. Also, I finally got around to getting my modified steering arms. Some finishing work required... One spare, so I only get one chance to fuck up. I had some citric acid already mixed in a bucket, so I chucked them in there to remove the mill scale, because I can.
  7. It looks halfway between image 1 and 6. There is abrasion damage near the top of the rod that would have damaged the seal. I suspect VTNZ will fail it. I guess I must cross my fingers for working on car outside weather this weekend because my shed is full of projects and there is no room for the daily.
  8. Are leaking shock/struts a wof fail? Or just a comment? New ones arrived today Ex japan, but I may or may not get a chance to fit them before the wof is due.
  9. I wanted to have a better tow bar mounting system than the factory one, which relied far to much on the spare wheel well sheet metal. I originally intended to fold up something that would replace the support for the boot floor boards. But I didn't have any suitable sheet metal and it would have been too long and thick to fit in my folder. So I decided that using some rectangular section would be FAR simpler. I made some access holes so I could weld in the captive nuts and if I ever need to replace them, I can get in there with a die grinder. I also notched the bottom with the mill so it fit over the raised sections of floor. Just a couple of spot welds on this side. I'm not sure if I should be worried about bending forces where it's welded on below the strut, it's 1.2mm sheet there, or if I should add some structure in to tie it in with the cross member above it... There is double skinned structure in the rear quarters that wraps around and across the back panel and ties into the bumper mounts, so the back of the car is actually supported. Gives me three M10X1.25 bolt holes. Don't mind the washers, they were just to clamp it for welding. Now I need to do the other side.
  10. Thanks to @Lord Gruntfuttock my heater system arrived today. I gave the bits a bath in the paddling pool. An outside hot tap is so convenient for this. Looks like I've got almost 2 sets of bits. And a couple of mystery round bits that I suspect may not be from a mini.(left and up from the blue brush) Hopefully the fan works and the heater matrix is not full of holes.
  11. Please paint those engine pulleys!
  12. I got all my holes filled. And drilled another orifice so I can tickle the nut on the diff mount.
  13. Filling in the hole. 1.2mm is so nice to weld.
  14. I have a 2zzge Allex. Goes real good. Lift kicks in at 6400 and starts pulling harder up to 8200 redline. 140 killingwhats apparently. I reckon now must be the best/cheapest time for sourcing these engines. Not uncommon to see at PickAPart now.
  15. Two coats of epotec brushed on. Needs another coat. I used about 1.2L. I'd probably get better coverage spraying, but I'm not set up to spray yet and I also didn't want to paint everything in the shed white too. I splooged it on heavy around the seams and gaps etc and pushed in the cracks as best I could. Plenty of runs, but it's never really going to be seen. The underside of the parcel tray was a real cunt to get clean enough to paint. It had a lot of surface rust... and rust coloured paint which was covered in old hard glue, that was also brown, which was covered in that fluffy sound deadening. The whole back panel was completely coated in glue and fluffy stuff too. The rotisserie bits in the way, small space and lack of light was an added bonus. I ended up using turps with steel wool and various hand and drill/grinders to get the glue and fluff off. Then I tried using phosphoric acid on the rust and discovered the paint. So had to use paint stripper to get that off. Then I could use the acid and more steel wool and wire brushes. After many hours over days and weeks I decided it was acceptable and I was okay with painting it. Then wax and grease remover.
  16. Nice! Thanks for that. I've been busy with the front panel and getting the underside prepped for epoxy primer.
  17. Adoom

    PAINT THREAD

    Does anyone mix their epotec 408 by weight and have the numbers? I used the digital kitchen scales and weighed 500ml (in a mixing cup) of hardener and 500ml of the 408 and came up these numbers. I didn't get around to weighing the thinners... Someone sanity check this?
  18. Mine is an old boc 170p. must be about 18 years old.
  19. Voltage, or whatever is on the power knob...(mine is just 1 to 6) then adjust the wire speed to keep up with the voltage.
  20. I write my settings on the side of the welder with a vivid.
  21. The rest of the stuff I ordered. Teeny tiny little disc brakes. These are the biggest brakes you can get that will fit in (most...some)10" wheels. My options for brakes were: Drum brakes. Most mini's had drums. It's not hard to out drive them. So, just no. 7.5" disc brakes. solid disc. fits 10" wheels. also needs disc brake hub and 7.5" specific drive flange. Only came on the early cooper S minis. Like hens teeth now. 8.4" disc brakes. solid disc. needs 12" wheels. also needs disc brake hub and 8.4" specific drive flange. Only came on 1275cc minis, so way less of them. Come up occasionally, but people want $$$ and they will still need rebuilding. 8.4" MG Metro disc brakes. vented disc. needs 12" wheels. The whole hub assembly will bolt straight on, but you will get positive camber. Only came on the MG Metro turbo. When is the last time you saw one of those. You can get new 7.5" brake/hub assembly from minispares/minisport. But the 7.5" brakes were not particularly good anyway, or so I have been told. Or you can get new 8.4" brake/hub assembly from minispares/minisport. But I kinda want 10" wheels. So I got the minisport 7.9" vented brake/hub assembly for just a few hundred more than the 7.5 or 8.4 so I can have good brakes and 10" wheels. It's basically the 8.4 brakes with different discs and alloy 4 piston calipers. I justified it by telling myself, it's all new. If I got some used brakes, the hub could be damaged, the bearings, CVs, balljoints and discs will probably need replacing, the calipers will need rebuilding.
  22. That's option 2.
  23. Yep, been using my old auto darkening helmet. It works fine, but the work area needs to be well lit because the base tint of the lens is fairly dark.
  24. Supplier has said it's technically out of warranty, but told me to send it in and they will take it up with Optrel to see what can be done.
×
×
  • Create New...