Adoom

Copy other peoples code and modify to suit. Before you could just use a phone... I made a GPS based speedo one time. It worked, but it was too laggy. I thing the problem was the refresh rate of the gps receiver thingy. My problem was trying to think of what to make....

I have one of these. Makes spot weld drilling easyish. I've drilled maybe 30 spot welds and I'm still using the first side of the cutter dealie. You get 11 cutters that you can use both sides of, so 22... You need to center punch or drill a little dimple, or the drill just fucks off and makes scratches. Start slow and don't push hard till it's started cutting, or, the drill just grabs and fucks off. Desic spot weld drill on trademe link thing

Welded on a tiny patch. Got pretty good penetration. Unfortunately my dog is shit scared of the noise of mig welding and goes to stand in the furthest corner of the garden and pants like crazy. :/ I have to use treats to get her to come back. So I feel bad when I weld and don't get much done. Hopefully it's better when the house is done and I can put her in there where she should not be able to hear the welder. This patch is next. I need to drill some holes in it, for making spot welds, first. Then I make the big patch that goes behind it. Shouldn't be hard, it's just a rectangle with a bit of a curve.

Got a couple more axle stands to use at the back. Couldn't find any as big as the ones I had at the front.... It will wobble a bit if I push on it, but I think it needs to wobble a fuck ton to actually fall off. Cut some more bits off. I can/could start making repair panels for the top of the guard now and start putting metal back in.

My bench is a real sturdy motherfucker, so heavy.

Most of the patches I need to make are simple shapes. A bunch of straight bends, no compound curves. A lot of it is out of sight so it doesn't have to be exactly the right shape. I'll need to make a sheet metal bender. They are stupid expensive to buy. But freight for stuff that size must cost a fortune.

I got the channel off. This is rusty. These are bits I have cut off and need to use to make templates for repair pieces. Cut that off. The inner wing panel behind it also need to be replaced, it's pretty thin in lots of places. An outer sill was BRAZED, over the old rusty sill, so that will have to come off too. Need to make a new end for this box section thing. Still more cutting to do before I can start putting new metal in, getting a bit hard to fit the grinder in... Might have to switch to the reciprocating saw. Maybe the plasma cutter, but I'm wary of cutting through more than one layer. I would like to replace the rear half of the wing/guard as mine is full of bog. Anyone got anything? Front half of the guard appears to be okay,

I've looked further down the guard and didn't see any more horror.

And then...so the guard has been damaged in the past, beat back into shape, then skimmed with about 6mm bog. Balls, more rust up there. Bye bye guard. I need to make another one of these. I need to replace part of this gutter, and it needs to come off so I can fix the rusty thing under it. Most of this thing needs to be replaced... there is also a small hole behind it that has been bogged over.

Passenger sill. I can shove a screwdriver through this gap. I removed the dodgy patch welded on with bird shit. And.... To get behind the guard I'm going to do something that scares me a little.

Sounds like my Starlet. Disconnect the steering column and remove the engine cross member bolts. With a jack under the engine cross member, lower it just enough to give you clearance to get the gearbox out, without having to remove the engine. EDIT: Keep an eye on hoses and earth straps as you lower it, or you could damage them.

Could you use a ride on mower with the deck removed? And some chunkier tyres. And a welded up different(mine single spins if I get stuck). I forget what the original question was....

Steam catapult like on aircraft carrier. With a crappy plastic office chair strapped to it.

I got power to the shed on Friday! Lights and powerpoints are coming on Wednesday! My 1UZ had a hydraulic pump for the fan, wtf is wrong with an electric one?!?! I'm only running an alternator, so don't need any of the other idler pulleys. If I just remove them, it leaves big holes exposing the timing belt. So I adjusted them with the hack saw and angle grinder to remove the bits I don't need. I also removed some brackets from this that were for the AC or PS pump. This tensioner thing no longer served a purpose other than filling in a hole, so I cut the shaft off.

Left rear quarter window rust Right rear quarter window rust Under the parcel shelf rust Left footwell/sill rust Right footwell/sill rust Right sill/wheel arch end rust Shitty looking patches on left sill end/wheel arch Rusty left rear seat belt mount/wheel arch

Looks like I will need to do some rust repair on the sills. There is no rust on the outside/underside, though I still need to do a comprehensive search. So far... I can stab a screwdriver through the front left corner of the passenger footwell. The front end of the drivers sill in the wheel arch has some rusty holes. The end of the passenger sill in the wheel arch has some roughly tacked on patches. The front outer part of this sill has been repaired, but I don't know if they cut the rust out first or just slapped a panel over the top because there is a lap weld rather than a butt weld where the repair ends. The end of the sill in the rear wheel arch is rusting through around the seatbelt reinforcing plate. This guys thread is most helpful to make it look less intimidating. http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/173102 I'm supposed to be getting electricity in the shed TODAY! So I could use tools other than my cordless drill.

You could join a motorsport affiliated car club too. The annual fees are usually bugger all. Like $20 or $60 or something. Then you get invites to their track days, and all the clubs often invite each other to their track days too. So join club X and you could also enter events arranged by club Y/Z/etc... Often, depending on the event, you run in classes by engine size, forced induction, FWD, RWD, AWD. So you typically end up running with cars 'similar' to yours in performance.

Make that both rear quarter windows are rusty at the bottom. Jeez, the fuck is up with these factory gaps between the panels, it's like they designed it to leak into the guard if the mastic stuff ever failed.

Some clown hot glued the rear parcel shelf in cause the clips were missing. I scraped it off without too much damage. But the long thin metal bit that goes behind it was rusted through at both ends. Anyone got a good one? Found some rust at the bottom of the left rear quarter window. Took it out to find a decent hole and a small hole on the outside that had been bogged over without bothering to remove the window first. Repair looks to be within my welding skill level, but part will be outside, so it will need to be painted. I wanted to avoid painting it for a while.

I've looked at some like that. But that is so basic, I'd be better off making my own. You also don't get any way to turn separate vents off/on. The current setup has: Large central dash vent. left dash vent right dash vent left windscreen vent right windscreen vent left rear vent (can't be very effective, could remove) right rear vent (can't be very effective, could remove) Venting to the foot area(no ducts, just a big hole in the side) I'd want to retain at least 1-5. I thought of making a box up for the original long heat exchanger but run two fans that I can control separately. One fan is ducted to windscreen for super demist. The other fan is ducted to all the other vents.

Nar. Engine transplant is easier. Just needs brackets, all the connector bits like hoses/wires are flexible so stuff doesn't really need to line up. Heater is big fucking plastic thing full of flappy doors to make hacking it up not really feasible and vents in the wrong place but you can't move them because flappy doors won't work right and mechanical levers for flappy doors that you need to actuate somehow. I think my options are: Fix existing heater maybe try upgrade motor to insane brushless mode. Get better condition std heater maybe try upgrade motor to insane brushless mode. Replace with something really basic that only does the windscreen. But then I am left with useless vents in the middle and on either side of the dash. Remember I don't want this to be another racecar.

I have considered both of these things. If I recess the firewall, I'll have to change the heater because it won't fit anymore. But retrofitting a modern heater to the existing inlet hole and vents seems like it could be a lot of work.

The heater is pretty rusty too, and full of crap. Jeez it's heavy. Anyone got a good one they don't need before I try fix mine?

Removed the dash and the heater and that horrible foam rubber pad thing. Found the heat tap is seized, not sure if on or off, so had been disconnected. Also, I think I will need to use that whole patch panel. All the rust is in that one panel as far as I can see.

I would be getting a longer/bigger breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt. This is from my no experience freeing a seized engine. Also, it's a cast iron head right, it's not like you are going to strip the spark plug hole threads like an alloy head if you just use a longer breaker bar or a bit of pipe on the handle to make it longer. Maybe see if you can just crack them a little, then spray it with CRC. I don't think much/any crc is going to get down in the threads if the plugs are done up tight as.