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I'm going to get hounded for this comment (I only bring it up as a discussion point) as there's a shitload of OSGCs that probably consider themselves engineers but in my eyes an engineer is someone who has a degree - a bachelors degree. Below that you have diplomas, certificates, etc etc. Maybe 'professional engineer' is a better term for someone with a degree. This doesn't help you whatsoever but graduates coming out of Auckland Uni with a bachelor of engineering (mechanical) are currently getting $40-50k. This is after a 4 year degree and a student loan of $40k+ if your parents didn't pay for it.

My idea of cheap/expensive might be warped given that I'm working on a car that cost me $200 and is worth nothing to re-sell even if its legal. I've realised that cheap projects are all good, but if you have to spend any money on them it becomes not cheap pretty quickly.

There's no way you'll blow the spark out on a 400hp low comp turbo motor with with those coils (assuming they are in good condition). Fancy pants NZEFI coils are a waste of money in your scenario. Be happy and deal with the problem if it ever becomes one, and even then there's a miriad of coils that you can find at pick a part that'll keep you happy.

Sweet, thanks team. Bundy it is. I'd prefer to splash out on a decent bender and use bundy as that way it'll be cheaper in the long run. For future reference, I called brassfit and it's $36 for a 8m coil. This place has 6m coils for $14.

99% sure cupro nickel is sweet, pure copper is no good though.

This is definitely my favourite build thread on OS at the moment. I check every day hoping that there's an update. Your finger looks well sore man... Not good to see at all. If you do need some extra hands then don't forget that Leon and I are just down the road.

I'm currently going through the braking system on my Fronte and everythings rooted due to it sitting for 10 years. I figure it's best to make all new hard lines as they all have some degree of corrosion on the outside so they insides probably aren't much better. I'm trying to figure out if I should go with steel bundy tube or the cupro nickel tubing. I've never worked with either variety before so I need some advice as to if the extra expense of the copper/nickel stuff is worth it? I understand it's significantly easier to bend and it doesn't have the corrosion issues of plated steel. The price difference seems to be pretty high though - in the order of $15 for a coil of steel vs $100 for cupro nickel. Which should I go with? Also, if anyone has a good source for tubing in Auckland then I'd like to hear about it too.

I had a good yarn to the owner out at Puke last year. He seemed like a really nice guy.

For $500 from Engine Specs mentioned above I had my 4age race head cleaned, decked to a specified combustion chamber volume, 16 valves checked for straight, of which 8 were replaced, new valves turned down to fit existing seats, valves and seats resurfaced (5 axis from memory), valve springs checked and shimed to increase spring pressure, and reassembled.

Be very careful with Lynn if you want it done this century. Also he would be THE most expensive option in NZ probably. Obv his work is very well regarded but for a simple freshen up then it's probably not worth the expense IMO. I've been dealing with Engine Specialties on the shore recently. Their work is definitely well regarded too but I did have some problems with communication. They did some work that I didn't ask to have done and tried to charge me for it (straightening crank) - when I argued the point and said they should have called me first they took it off the bill. I have been back since and had a good experience and I will happily go back again. They're happy to deal in cash to which is always a bonus. I suggest getting a written quote regardless of where you go. This stops any unexpected costs slipping in that you weren't prepared for.

My 2c with regards to talking to the building occupiers is that it's best to not bother. The cops were being alarmist and as you said probably expected us to be a bunch of idiots. Given that we've never had a complaint and the length of time we've been meeting there it doesn't seem worth the risk of them telling us to piss off. On the other hand, it'd be nice to have it legit if the popo do come visiting again in the future. Hard to know what to do really.

Yeah he was pretty rude huh. It seems that most cops employ the 'I'm going to act like an arsehole until further notice' attitude. When he spoke to me later he was fine and reasonable.

The cops saw the lads in the 260z and RX7 (sorry, don't know names) leaving and pulled the 260z over while trying to exit the driveway. Ended up with the 260z parked in the middle of the road, cop lights flashing and everyone confused as to exactly what was going on. It seems that the cops were just driving past and were curious as to why cars were coming down from a private carpark at that time of the night. Guess they figured we were doing skids or whatever. It's worth noting that everyone was behaving themselves - no skids, no rubbish, etc and nobody had laid a complaint. Just a couple of young cops freaking out about a few old cars. Cops told 260z driver to leave his car in the middle of the road and not go anywhere and then came up the ramp. We started explaining that we'd been coming to this carpark for years, once every month, for our car club meet and we'd never had a complaint. The cop was concerned that we were on private property and wanted to know who owned the building, etc. He eventually went to talk to the BF lads to see what they had to say. While he was gone cop #2 was left standing around so I went to talk to him to ask a) what was actually the problem and had there been a complaint and b ) were they stopping us all from leaving or only the guys currently at the bottom of the ramp. Cop #2 wasn't very on to it but basically said we were on private property which we shouldn't be and that nobody could leave. Eventually cop #1 came back and for some reason chose to come after me and ask if I represented the club. I said no but why was he asking... He said BF didnt own the carpark and they never said we could park there and that we should never park there again because it's private property, etc, etc. In his defense he said that if we want to keep parking there then we could ask for permission from the owners. I ended up clarifying that we know that BF don't own the carpark and that we just happen to park there and then go to BF for dinner - have been doing so for years - never had a complaint and see the security guard all the time. At that point he ended up saying that in that case everything was fine, apologised and left. As a note, Ned reminded me that many moons ago a club member did give us permission to park there as he worked in the building at the time. I didn't mention that to the cop, and isn't really relevant to us anymore anyway in my opinion. Sorry about the long post. Figured it was best to get all the info down before I forget...

I have a manual so if you want some specific info then i can help out. I'm currently using the manual for working on my own Fronte so I don't want to be without it though. I don't like your chances of finding a manual for sale - I looked for a year before I stumbled across the one I have. Parts from Suzuki are non existant. You can still get a lot of parts NOS via Yahoo Japan. What engine parts are you after? And more importantly, do you have any LC10 parts that you dont need? Cam

One more thing. Looking at the T7design place linked above. The smallest hot water heater they have is rated at 2.2kW (http://www.t7design.co.uk/index.php?mai ... cts_id=189). To match this with an electric heater requires 183A. Waaayyyyyy more than your alternator can even supply and it would require MASSIVE cables. Just wanted to justify my claims above...

The problem with running a 12V electric heater of some sort (ala hair dryer) is that to produce enough heat to do anything you need a lot of power. 12V hair dryers plug into cigarette lighter sockets and on the high side will draw 5 amps which is only 60W total output (less the power to run the internal fan). imagine putting a 60W light bulb up against your window and waiting for it to demist your windscreen. it just isn't enough heat. So, the problem is that to get enough power at 12V to create enough heat you need to draw huge amounts of current which requires big wires, etc, etc, etc. Most guys with electric vehicles use 240V ceramic heaters and wire them in to their high voltage battery packs. This works really well as with the higher voltage you only need a few amps to crank out the heat. I definitely think your best bet is to try the bilge fan and see how it goes. If it's not enough then worry about what the next step is after that. The V8 supercar guys seem to rave on about some kind of 2in1 shampoo that's apparently excellent for stopping windscreens from fogging up - like that FogX stuff but better. A quick search should fill you in on what kind to use. The plan for my racecar is to run the bilge fan + shampoo anti fog.

I'll definitely be there. A mate of mine works for Avspecs and has been working on this for the past 3 years or so. Its been years since ive seen a Vampire in the air so im well keen to see that too.

What are you wanting to know specifically? We can probably tell a lot about it even just from that one photo. I would be skeptical buying that if you want something decent as by the looks of the starlet that that motors listed with the guy is a mega rough bastard.

Toyota uses double sided foam tape from the factory so it's certianly strong enough. But who knows where you might find some of that stuff off the shelf. I imagine pretty much everyone will be using urethane when putting windows back in on AE86s. I've taken shitloads out but never put any back in (seems pretty sad when you look at it like that) so I can't really comment. Maybe ask on aeu86.org and see what people do on there? To remvove them once youve urethaned them in you just push a length of piano wire through and saw through it. Exactly the same as removing a windscreen. It's not hard at all.

The other option is just buy the correct crossmember to fit your motor. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 667691.htm Seems pricey but I know nothing about this JZ buisness. Sounds like youve got CAD stuff sorted but I can help if that doesn't work.

Those vented uprights are pretty amazing. I'm surprised that they're fabricated as opposed to machined. The front upright has that pin on the bottom. This will pass through a spherical bearing that's probably housed in an al/ti block that fits on to the two studs on the end of the lower arm (which can be seen in the pic below). It's not a rod end connection - you never put rod ends in bending...

With toothed belts you will generally strip all the teeth off them before they snap. We tried a toothed belt for the final drive instead of chain in a 100hp bike motor open wheeled racecar once and the belt lasted about 0.1s before the teeth were goneski.

I'm not sure if this will help your situation at all but here are some diagrams from SR20DETs. Posting these purely because these are a turbo engine that I'm familiar with and it may be of interest to you. So these diagrams show the factory breather setup on SR20DETs, they both show the same thing in a slightly different way. They have two different paths for the gasses depending on if the system is in vacuum or in boost. It's pretty nifty. See this link for a pretty good writeup on your catch can option for these motors. It might give you some inspiration

I guess there are also two variations on the basic catch can setup (2nd to top pic). You could run it with the centre plate vent blocked or open. What did you have in mind if you are to go down this path? On a piston engine you generally have no vent aside from the one that goes to the catch can. I would suggest that in this case it's the same deal. Or you could also run that point into your catch can also. What option are you leaning towards?

I'm not going to get into this discussion as it's just going to end up with me getting angry but I do want to add for Danes sake that the rust that's been painted over in that pic is under the boot/hatch seal. It's under the seal so it will have been protected to some extent from air getting in there and allowing it to weep and continue rusting at a normal rate. Super super common place for these cars to rust. But easily accessible too so not hard to fix. The rust under the fuel flap makes me instantly scared. There are so many places on these cars that are 3 or 4 layers thick and none of them are very well protected from the factory. They all rust from the inside out and it's only a matter of time before they break through. Around the rear arches and at the bottom of the rear quarter panels is by far the worst spot on these cars as when the boot starts to leak this is where the damage starts. It's all happening from the inside so you won't notice until it gets like this. I suspect (as has already been pointed out) that the rust under your fuel cap is the tip of the iceberg and if you went digging properly you would find a large amount on rust trapped between the inner layers. Find a panel beater you trust and don't fucking skimp. You don't have to do a bare metal restoration but at least do yourself (or the next owner) a favour and properly repair the areas that need doing now. Oh and considering I've written this much already I'm going to reiterate what's already been pointed out above. The fuel tank is a piece of piss to remove. You can do it yourself. It will be within your capabilities. Just follow the manual and you'll be fine.