nick_m

ok thanks NVMPAJ thats likely what ill do. Getting a sparky mate to come round and confirm my wiring is 2.5mm and nothing dodgey is happening then ill get a dedicated power point for it. Piece of mind and all that

yeah 100% its a 20A plug, its on the plug itself. I would like to get a dedicated powerpoint for it, but as you can imagine this is the worst time of year to try get anyone around to do that. Was hoping to get it up and running over the holidays as I had a job I wanted to do with it. Will contact a couple of sparky mates and see if I can get them to sort it out. Otherwise I might just trim it for now till I can get a dedicated supply sorted..... The highest I ever had my little DC TIG was 120amps and the thickness of Ali im welding I doubt ill get higher than 90-amps so likely be alright BUT... Still keen to hear what other people reckon though

Bought a Mitech 200p AC tig and it has a 20amp plug on the end. I am hoping to get someone smarter than me to come check out the garage wiring, I have 20amp circuit breakers but im not convinced something dodgey isnt going on. But assuming the garage wiring is up to it, can I swap the 20amp plug for A 15amp one or do I need to get a 20 amp power point wired into the garage to run the TIG off of?

Hey dude what are the rotors you are using on the back?, might do the same brake setup on the back of mine

I did the course with matt, definitely recommend it too. If for nothing else other than from the minute you walk in the door you start welding, all the material is precut for you so you actually get through a lot of welding in three hours, and you have the tutor there to give you pointers/tell you what your doing wrong.

yeah matt, its getting close to the end of the year. Must be nearly ready to roll it down for cert?

wish I was racing, looks like so much fun. I should have bought a running race car instead of building one!!

my old work mate made a light flywheel out of mild steel for his super stock(? - the inline 6 smash and bash ones) I queried him at the time about using mild steel. He swore by it, reckoned that mild steel was much better with the heat cycles, the higher grade steels are more prone to heat cracking. Guess those inline 6s dont really rev that high, plus yours being a road car would probably be less likely to be subjected to those heat cycles. I reckon you would be alright with mild steel or medium tensile 1040 Im pretty sure those inserts on the fidanza Aluminium flywheels are only 1040. edit: Fidanza are heat treated 1050

interested in the vapor dash Where you get it from and how much? Was it hard to set up etc?

Those rover K series motors are pretty sweet little motors, could get a 1.8 for a little bit more poke. And like said, ridiculously light. Think they are pretty gutless from memory though what about a suzuki cappicino motor haha 3 cyl 660cc turbo. Only 47kw though! Having stuffed a big 2L into a small car (sr20 in a datsun 1200) I would steer away from the likes of sr20/3sge/fj20 just too tall or wide imo for what you want to achieve (tidy enine bay etc) Can definitely be done though turbo 4age probably fits the bill quite well

This is probably the route Im going to take. The decrease in oil is pretty minimal anyway. Nick, yeah it is something I was wondering about, but I havnt really looked into it. What sort of coin are you looking at for a suitable setup? yeah ill add an oil cooler too, The accusumps arent too bad, About 200USD for the accumulator (3 Quarts) and about 200USD for the electric pressure switch. The pressure switch electronically controls the accumulator to empty when engine oil pressure drops below a set psi and refills once above it. They are just a hydraulic accumulator, when the time comes im going to talk to my hydraulic engineer mate as I bet he could whip something up for pretty cheap

hey dude maybe look at adding an accusump to gain some oil capcity back and reduce the risk of starving it of oil. I might have to do a similar thing on mine

yeah dude agreed. Loving the Fabrication. Who's the guy that did the Porting on your CA18 head/wher does he work?

Not too soon, me and dan need time and money to finish our cars first!!!

so excited. I love racecars

You could look at adapting a 120y/180b Datsun brake booster and appropriate sized master. Could possibly give you a bit more room to put your gate there? Try to keep your fittings on your WG clear of your manifold as much as practical. Had a silvia in at work that had one of his fittings nearly sitting on the bottom of the exhaust housing and it kept heating the bolt up and burning holes in the WG Diaphram. You can disassemble the WG and rotate the top half of the WG 120/240 deg from where it is now if needed.

I've started saying mine will be done this year too (as I have for the last 4 years) I need to pull finger if im going to. Mine is a lot further behind than yours!

fuck matt. Are going to actually finish this? Better do some work on mine before I fall further behind!

get 4 dodge ram spare wheels of ebay. They are a 20 inch steel wheel (not space saver)

Not a rotary based one but still cool http://www.ilmor.co.uk/concept_5-stroke_1.php

those extractors started out with 1 3/4" inch collector. have tried 2" 2.25" and current 2.5" which didn't really have any effect at all. but, would be good to test with the big exhaust on there at the moment. have tried megaphones and also sorts, same deal. kinda tells me something else was the problem, being so numb to changes. but new setup is completely different other than the exhaust setup. so start again! want to get it on dyno some time as it is. recon its making good power for stock cams Im impressed you've done so much testing. Agree too, must be something up if such changes have piss all effect. Look forward to seeing how the new motor comes along

I love this car

awesome dude. Look forward to hearing how much the alu shuts it up. Also is the smallest diameter of your collector 2.5"? If so i reckon you could probably make a bit more power + a decent amount of mid range if you dropped that collector choke down to 2.25" or a sniff smaller and then taper it out to your 3" exhaust Some of the big 2+ litre hondas are running 2.5" collectors but most 2L i've seen run around 2.25" merge collectors tapering to 3" exhausts, so 2.5" collector seems huge for a 1600 Can probably dig out a dyno pic of some testing on a sr20ve where they tested a few different sized headers and 2 choke sizes if your interested. Maybe you could make some venturi looking thing that you can tack in just to test it out and see if it actually does like a smaller choke

how heavy is an anglia? fucking light. about 600 and something standard. Guessing his is probably about 600kg cause he ditched the cast iron pre cross flow anchor too!

cool matt, looks like youve managed to sneak out to the garage a little lately