bubblegoose

stainless is hard and nasty and pretty and shiny and in theory reflects more of the higher frequency's that mild absorbs/dulls hence why alloy muffs are most effective

you are best to balance the crank with the flywheel and pully attached and make sure it all goes back together the same polishing the crank shouldn't cost more than $20 per journal and a grind no more than $40 per journal

the 2 hammer trick also works on nuts jus sayan

there is only one 'terminal' /lump of solder on your condenser and both the - wire of the coil and the wire from the points are stuck to it

that coil HAS 2 WIRES, going by your logic the system would then be running 2 caps? i see no logic in mounting a cap on the coil if its also got one in by the points when they could just earth the primary to the core and save 3c of copper. And if it is an ac coil running 6v dc to it will not damage it at all it will simply make a weak or no spark

and the coil he has has the condensor by the coil as in the c90 diagram

looking back it looks like a used coil? have a look on the condenser see if there is any exposed wire/solder, the wires always break off at this point and would be a dead give away

diagram says to me thats a c90 coil its just missing the wire from the condenser(c50 shows no consenser) power goes to the wire you have and points goes to the condenser, the wire already on the condenser should be going into the coil. just try it you wont cook it with a measly 6v

nope just bolt on

solder it to the same point the wire goes into the condenser or solder on a connection to make removal easier

the points wire goes to the condenser job done

oh wait a condenser attached to the frame of the coil?

i know you can use a points coil for cdi systems but im not sure on the logistics of using a cdi coil on points (if possible at all) but you would likely have to isolate the coil and have the points and cap wired to the core (the bolt holes) if it worked im not sure how long the winding would last though

thats a cdi coil. points coil has 2 wires, one to the 12v+ from the regulator the other goes to the points with the condenser/cap inline

its fucked THE END ps thanks for the bits im stealing off it

and make sure you dont wire it up so your cramming a 12v wang into a 7/9v hole did i mention that if you have a can of wd40 set up via capillary line to your zort manifold you make a james bond stlye smoke screen 1001 things to do with wd40

i put rangi switch in, havent looked back/just do it. also wd40 was made to start diesels

petrol, that reminds me. fire proof your engione bay during tuning as there will be ALOT of petrol getting thrown back out of the carbs while driving

heres a nostaligic video of my 36's on my van hCBK1TAb-Xs

a healthy pinto with R1s full zorst system and a little more timing advance should be making 150hp or there abouts 36mm is a pretty good starting block and you probably wont feel a huge power gain if you upgraded to R1s but you would get a bigger kick in the balls/more aggressive power delivery than the 36's which would be much nicer to daily PS you can pick up a set of 36 miks for between $50 and $80 if you keep an eye out

thread hijack seedyalans VW 20V please

pffft cheaper my sphincter

you can change certafella but you will have to pay again

done

port cancer is a bastard it comes back real fast if its not fully cleaned/polished out