Lump

Hi Guys, I know we more on the internal combustion side of things around here - but a friend of mine told me about this and it looks pretty interesting. Figured I'd put it up in here in case anyone else hadn't heard of it who might be interested. http://evolocity.co.nz/

Go to the supermarket and get some banana boxes - they'll have shit loads of these and you should be able to get them for free. They're really sturdy can be opened and closed easily, good size easy to stack and even different brands of banana's have the same size box.

Righto - got everything bolted back together and it seems to have cured it. Been for a quick test drive and haven't heard it squeaking - I guess time will tell ifs really gone. Can't believe that little wear could cause so much noise - it must have been fine wearing in its grooves most of the time and then being occasionally put in a different position making the squeak and then moving back into its usual range of motion. Cheers for the help guys - much appreciated.

Checked the rear hubs today - both seemed to have that barely noticeable play that a lot of Pommie cars have. I've pulled the drivers side hub and removed the half shaft (this seemed to be the side the noise was from) the inner UJ by the diff was nice and smooth while the outer one was a little 'notchy'. I removed the notchy one and its got some wear showing - its seems pretty light but I guess I'll know if this was the cause when I put it back together.

Yup looks like the picture below (not mine but the same). Haven't noticed any play but will double check.

I've removed the handbrake mechanisms cables etc. had one loose pad in one and a stone stuck in another one. - That'll be it I thought. Went for a test drive without the handbrake - its not the handbrake! Must be one of the rear UJ's I seem to be able to trigger it by turning left suddenly (sometimes). Time to order some UJ's and get hold of a hub puller

I've been getting a weird intermittent chirping noise from my Jag lately - most noticeable at low speeds (almost like a monkey laughing) - it happens sometimes when going over bumps or around corners or just going straight and it is car speed dependent but not engine speed dependent. (I've given the car a good bounce from each corner but there are no noises when its stationary) I've got the car up on stands at the moment (not for the first time with this issue) and its a real head scratcher - can't spot anything rubbing (exhaust pipes cables pipes etc.) - there doesn't seem to be any play or wear in the UJ's and the rear brakes have already been given a good soaking in brake cleaner. I haven't ruled out it coming from the front - the lower wishbone bushes do look like they've had it (although it does sound like its coming from the rear) Any suggestions?

Looking sharp! You got a good score with that crack free dash and interior parts

Ah that must be whats holding the other side on (I've done an engine/trans swap on it - XJ40 engine and trans into a series 1 XJ6 - the transmission mount has four mounting points - two of which match the original factory points - so two new mount holes had to be drilled - I got the engine and trans out of a series 2 which had had the same engine swap although the later models only need one new transmission mount hole drilled and that had a plate which sounds like what you're describing used to attach it) So it sounds like a rivnut isn't a go, I'll try drilling and tapping a piece of flatbar as TIm13 suggested or getting one of these anchor points and amending it to work. Cheers Guys,

Does anyone know where I can get these in NZ - I'm looking to use one of these as a captive nut for my transmission mount at the edge of the trans tunnel it currently just held by a free nut which is a bit of a pain when I have to undo it (I don't have the equipment to weld the existing nut in - its also under carpet with a lot of horsehair type sound deadening material which looks very flammable)

The voltage regulator on the alternator might be failing and overcharging - this happened on my motorbike and the temp gauge overread as its internal voltage regulator (12v down to 7v) couldn't handle the increased loads from the charging system. Do your gauges over read more when the engine is running faster?

Just wondering if an old ignition coil I have lying around is a possible replacement for the one I have in the car. The cars running a later Jag engine with electronic ignition (triggered of sensor wheel on the crank) The coil used is a Lucas DLB125 The other coil I have is a Champion CIC31. (This is from the jags old Chev V8 with aftermarket electronic ignition) I done some googling - But I'm getting very confused where the descriptions talk about 'no ballast resitor' or similar. I'm not sure whether this means the coil doesn't have a ballast resistor and should have one or if it means it is internally resisted and therefore doesn't need a ballast resistor. Could someone clear up how this works?

The new rear suspension came from a car I got from the wreckers - The chances of finding the last owner and them knowing what grease was in it seem pretty slim. As you say it most likely a ltihium grease and compatible with mine so I might have to mix em and hope for the best

Cheers Valiant, much appreciated Probably isn't better, basically i need the copper ones to connect directly to the coil and spark plug cap

I'm having some on going ignition issues with my bike at the moment. I'd like to replace the ignition leads - the current ones are a short length with a copper stranded center which attaches to the coils and spark plug caps. I tried buying an new ignition lead to cut up to replace them but it had a different centre without the copper and could be substiuted. Can you still get the copper centred ones and how to I spot the difference when picking them off the shelf at repco etc.

I swapped the rear suspension unit on my Jag last year and now I need to top up the grease in the rear bearings. I know that some types of greases can't be mixed with others http://www.mindconnection.com/library/handyman/greasecompat.htm But I don't know what grease is in there currently (I think its a silvery colour). Is there a method where I can test if two grease types are compatible? (my other wheel bearing is gulf western blue) PS I know the fool proof way would be to pull them apart and clean the old grease out and repack but these rear hubs are a specialist job and I'd rather just keep up the maintenance than fix something that ain't broken yet

Uggh not fun. Did mine last year - I won't offer any advice because I obviously muffed it - hand brake pads came off the backing caused all sorts of weird issues (brakes sticking in reverse etc) Half way through fixing it now (I've taken the handbrake system off while waiting for the parts to arrive)

Nice score on the spare parts, those side repeater lamp are impossible to find for one side (can't remember which one though)

I hear you about the Bilt Hamber stuff it sounds pretty awesome. PPC Australia have it listed on there website http://por15.com.au/ (doesn't seem to be on the NZ one) I'll start cleaning up the cavities and see if I can order some through them Nah the product is applied pretty thinly and shouldn't block holes that big, I'll check they're clear before putting the door cards back on anyhow

I've got a couple of aerosol cans of cavity wax and I'm planning on doing the bottoms of the Jags door cavities, there's a decent amount of dirt built up at the bottom or each door I've got most of it out but they're still a bit grimey. (doesn't seem to be any rust yet though) I'm going to have a go at them with some PH neutral soap and a thin paint brush tomorrow to try and get them clean before the cavity wax goes on. Is this the best way to go about this? I don't want to trap any dirt and moisture under the wax as I'd imagine that would just cause rust rather than prevent it.

Cheers guys, I've been saving up some coin to get this fixed - I'll give these guys a call and see what can be done

I might be keen if the old man brings his Zodiac along

I've got some tin worm that needs removing from the Jag. Its in a box section under the bolt off wing Can anyone suggest anywhere good to have this cut out and rewelded? Looking for a good job but not wanting to spend a small fortune (not that panel work usually works like that )

Shit that sounds a bit ropey I've found someone who can have a look at it - so I'll disable the pump and give my forearms a workout for a change and get it sorted.

Long story short I've managed to bugger the pressure line fitting on my power steering rack (I went from a slight leak to a geyser) There's no chance of holding fluid in the system without refilling every few minutes. If I disconnect the pump (which I'm guessing would burn out if a didn't) can I damage a power steering rack by driving for a short distance with no fluid in it (with a view to getting to someone who can fix it)?