Lump

^^^^^ This. Fans do bugger all without a shroud.

I'd be keen to lend a hand

fuel filters clogged? would explain while it will rev in neutral but not under load. the pump's in the boot there should be cheap filters upstream of the pump and the main filter downstream. - Also don't put a SBC in it (been there done that)

Need to pull finger and make sure I come along this time

Like you I usually use the Kyteler/Hemi method which works 95% of the time - when something being a bit of a cunt (usually the jag where the rear pipes has lots of ups and down or if a systems been completely drained) and still has a small amount of air somewhere in the system bleed as per above and then go around each corner again this time get someone to pump the brake pedal a few times and then hold it down while you crack open your bleed nipple and then tighten it before they release then pedal you should only need to do this once or twice at each corner. This pressurizes the brake fluid and makes the air into larger bubbles rather than lots of tiny ones which sometimes can't be seen you should get a few bubbles at the affected corners (no way of knowing which ones they are so do them all).

PI dash is the same size - you can get the center panel as well which is where the clock moves to on the PI models

Yeah I don't recall mine ever working either - might be able to clean out the rheostat to see if it helps. If its anything like the Jag it'll be pretty dim at full power anyhow

The knob you're asking about is for dimming the instrument lights

I'd be keen - I even have a spare lucas alternator........

I'd be keen to lend a hand - whats the address?

I could be keen for this.I miss my old Triumph this could cure me of any temptation to get another one Can we cut of the roof? = poor mans Stag

Can anyone recommend someone to have a look at my bikes carbs (Honda GL400). It tends to be hard to start needing alot of choke then its stumble along on a low idle before suddenly increasing in revs. When warmed up with no choke it runs fine (although maybe a little thirsty). This isn't much of a problem in summer but its a pain in the arse in winter I've pulled the carbs to bit and cleaned the passages a few times to no avail - but the main jets are stuck fast and I can't get them out. Love to hear some suggestions on who could have a look at these and finally spend some cash on the poor old workhorse.

Fuck me has it been a year since the last one - seems like just the other day

Hi Guys, Poor old Jag got rear ended on the way to work the other morning. I've lodged a claim and they're going to call me back tomorrow to find out who I'd want to use for repairs. I'm not sure how much leeway they're going to give me with who to use - I'm with AMI but they wouldn't give me classic cover as its a daily driver (its under an agreed value policy.) Any suggestions as to which panel beating places I should suggest. Pics of the damage - bumper is mashed (that's a single piece of steel!), and the panel behind its had a bit of a hiding, pic was also taken just after I opened the boot which now won't close...

Finally traced this problem down - a lot of people had suggest bad ground so I thought I'd double check that but they all turned out good. I was then thinking about running a 12v source to bypass the ignition switch - kill switch etc in case any wiring was shorting out in that area - I was trying to work out where to run the power to and I thought I'd just check the resistance from the positive battery lead (the battery was out being recharged at the time) to the 12v wires that lead to the coils. Everything read as expected but then I noticed that the resistance shot up if I moved the positive battery lead around - up down left right etc. I removed the lead (which lead to the starter solenoid) and all the braided metal is breaking down at the starter solenoid end (weirdly the starter has never given any issues) the 12v lead to the rest of the loom branches off where the main positive lead attaches to the starter solenoid. Knowing that the starter motor is still getting enough juice somehow I took the lead for the rest of the loom and attached it straight to the battery positive terminal and goodbye ignition troubles - she's been running fine for three days now! Theres a few pics of the lead below the smaller red wire was leading the the main fuse / rest of the loom before I bypassed it. So all in all it kind of was a bad ground - only on the other side of the battery - I'm a new lead made up for it and hopefully she keeps on trucking as its been pretty bloody irritating getting to the bottom of this problem.

Thanks guys, The cars getting towed away shortly but hasn't been written off yet so I'll try and avoid holing the tank or any other damage, the fuel pump looks like it can be removed to give access tot he tank but its got a very fragile looking plastic locking ring. I'll try getting into the return line - sounds like the best bet. Cheers

After 20 years of loyal service my sister managed to write off my Mum's old XR6. Its currently sitting outside my place waiting to be assessed where it will be written off I'm sure. Before it gets towed off I'm trying to syphon the fuel tank (it had a full tank at the time of the accident and it seems foolish to let this disappear when there are lawn mowers, motorbike, twin tanked jaguars lying about) I've got a jiggle syphon hose (with the brass fiiting in it) and it worked great for the first quarter of the tank but now I can't get it to work (no luck using it just a hose and trying to suck it through either) - do these tanks have a baffle or anti-syphoning device fitted or is there some other trick to getting the fuel out?

Coils tested as being fine. Thought maybe the plugs were fouling makng it difficult to restart - I tightened up a few of the intake clamps which got the plugs reading nice and clean and took it for a decent ride to recharge the battery and everything looked good - but then it nearly left me stranded in town not firing properly - though I managed to baby it home. - Ive had a look at the battery with a hydrometer tester and it looks like I've got a bad cell. The ignition systems in these bikes win't run without a battery and a dud one will cause all sorts of problems(apparently) - I'll look into replacing this and see if it helps

Cheers for the pointers guys, I've found some possible replacements but I've left the coils at the auto sparky's to be fully tested before I order them

ah the mythical fat blue spark, battery is well charged 12.8V from memory - drops to around 11.5 when cranking - Bike has an Electric starter Earth is just under the seat it looked pretty good already and I had given it a good clean up as part of the other fixes but it doesn't seem to have helped. I think those are the earlier CDI ignitions (mine has the TI system which is 'apparently more reliable') I have discounted the stator as a possible issue as the charging system seems to run well when the bike is running. Its starting to look like I should try swapping the coils out to see if this fixes things - can anyone recommend somewhere to buy aftermarket coils for bikes?

Looking at the vehicles in my signature and the issues in the topic - you'd probably assume this is the Jag playing up but no its the trusty old Honda GL400 (basically a CX500), Basically the issue is it will start and run fine when its sunny and it will start and run fine when its raining but if the weathers in between, misty or overcast or starting to blow up into a storm I just get a whole heap of cranking with little ignition. If I can get it to fire up it requires a lot of throttle to keep it running and it won't rev past about 5k. It can be driven like this but it needs full throttle and a lot of riding the clutch to get it moving and it ain't quick - sometimes it will snap back to running correctly but not always. I have had ignition problems in the past with this bike - the following parts have been recently replace - plug leads, spark plugs, ignition switch, ignitor boxes (these tell the coils when to spark). In an effort to help with this issue I've cleaned up the kill switch and re-taped the ignition leads but it desn't seem to have made a difference I have tested the system using the info in the following link when its running and everything seems fine - this bike has the transistor ignition http://www.genebitsystems.com/david/MotorcycleElectrical/IgnitionProblems.htm - although the spark appeared to be pretty weak and the plugs a bit fouled. Could this be a coil issue? - I've heard of them stopping running after a few minutes but never like this - an old mechanic once told me they ran better during a Norwester does that mean they could stop working enough to effect the bike in other conditions?

Double Bugger - didn't realise this was on and couldn't have made it either

Hi All, I've got a broken speedo cable on my motorbike, problem is that Parrots don't open until the 18th. Does anyone know another place in CHCH that does speedo cable repairs.

Try Parrots http://www.eparrott.co.nz/

I got a ride in the Telsa S model (the red one) for two laps - amazing acceleration.