plasticdash

Also check your O2 sensor, is its stuffed your closed loop will be rich.

why not just replace the broken bleed nipple?

You are all slack. . very slack !

faulty light switch/stalk would be my first guess (have had two go when i had R30's)

So it is. looks like a 2wd b2600/b2200 box will be the go. Cheers guys (I already have the bellhousing/fork assy)

my research so far suggests that the s4/5 RX7 boxes are correct for shifter position. the s6 and later are 6 inches back. Project Link viewtopic.php?f=17&t=18594

Righto. have got the exh manifold on with copper gasket. Now wanting to make a simple brace for the exh manifold. (between the 2 circled fastners) only issue is that i think the heat transfer may damage the engine mount, what do you think ? There is a factory engine mount heat shield that i will have to cut a hole in too Also shiny copper gasket ! modded allen key . can only just do up turbo fasters. damn tight.

just rub some cheap shampoo on inside of rear window for fog free-ness.

Loctite 222 is low strength suitable for small bolts so will be ok to take apart, I wouldn't go putting 272 or 277 on them ! thats for sure.

should be good to re-inflate. only took the centre out, didnt seperate the two rim halves. (time will tell thou) yes, will apply lashings of loctite 222 when i torque them up

thanks ! just been cleaning the rims and pulled the centre out to autosol the shiny bits - they had at least 5 years of brake dust on the inside one down, three to go

I have searched this forum and the internet for the torque settings for bolts that hold 3 piece wheels together and have got a wide variety of answers. 12.9 cap screws in 8mm x 1.25 pitch and 13mm nut on back. qty 20 fasteners per wheel - simmons v4's

I am reasonably sure (75%) the body bolt hole locations on manual and auto starions for the gearbox x-member is different. :spelling edit

Good Stuff on getting it running !!!

or 6G72 with mivec heads. or ida's on the essex.

Ok. Car specs as follows. As I brought it pretty much as it is (apart from rebuild susp, and the usual consumables like tyres, wiring, hoses, and a good tidy up and re plumbing of bov and wastegate) - and had it converted to Powersteer Engine - 4G63 starion bottom and block. 4g63 twin cam head - cams stock. inlet manifold cut and shut, early evo intercooler, Larger unknown Precision Turbo on tube manifold of rather poor design IMO , exh wastegate (plumbed in) , Urethane engine mounts , quiet , rather restrictive (and legal) 2.5" exhaust. old as autronic ecu. bosch 944 pump, larger inj, FPR , Bov (with shut the F**k up filter on it) Drive train - std big LSD diff with 3.545 ratio and 5 speed box. 3 puck with low clamping force (the 8 puck one it had when I got it, (that I ruined) was much better) Susp - Adj height/ damper Coil overs made from std susp with Koni Inserts , urethane bushes and larger front swaybar Interior - worn in a few spots, has USA "TSI" spec seats/door trims . Wheels - Simmons in need of a real good split and cleanup Brakes - std 4 stud type rears (changed from 5 stud factory), fronts early evo callipers and discs on std 4 std hubs (can be made to fit !) . stop ok when warm- but pads are rooted ATM .need replacement Sounds - Brethren spec ! To Do (wishlist) I have bellhousing to fit s5 rx7 gearbox to motor. (mitsi box shitty at high rpm shifts) I have 4.625 ratio cogs (for diff that is due for freshen up anyway) - would rather a 4.222 thou New brake pads - carbotech xp6's? short shifter for current mitsi box new intercooler (similar size) free up exhaust whilst maintaining legal and not homo 4g63 sound Fix/Tidy nightmare wiring. Plumb in Bov.

Whilst looking through car paperwork I found a dyno sheet from when i had the car tuned last. After much fighting with the scanner on my printer I got this Please feel free to pick holes in the stupid power delivery and fall off.

Yet again the gasket between the manifold and turbo has failed on the starion . this is gasket number 4 to fail. It is a factory mitsi multilayer metal gasket I am sick of this problem, surfaces are flat (have been planed after gasket 2 failed) ,bolts are lockwired and lock tabbed down to stop movement (and had not come undone). but there was movement between turbo and manifold where either bolts had stretched or gasket had got thinner due to failure I will replace bolts with new ones, and also add some shake-proof lock washers Failed gasket Picture of gasket and what holds it on (due to manifold design space is an issue for bolts/nuts) Picture of gasket on manifold (gasket hole is matched same size as turbo.) should probably match up the manifold too also the manifold to head had come loose on the top bolts only (one stud broke under no force) maybe i am hanging too much weight off the head ? So some more to fix!

Discuss viewtopic.php?f=18&t=18595 About time I posted this eyesore up. 1986 EX Starion with twincam conversion, It's always finding something expensive to break. Usual fruity bits with koni coilovers (wound way up into the sky so i can get up my driveway) have owned it for over 3 years now. will post some better newer pics soon.

Thats fantastic. Back in the day we used seatbelt webbing from one end of the shock to the other to limit shock expansion and keep spring captive.

I have used low kings/konis and also "quite" compressed standards/re-oiled standard shocks. the kings and konis were better, and handled well, understeered at limit thou. not very much lower than std. really could have done with a larger rear swaybar. compresseds were low, but really did muck up the rear geometry , chewed out tyres on the insides as there wasnt enough adjustment to dial out the toe/camber.

Would anyone know the differences between rx7 S4 and S5 gearboxes? (and if the turbo/non turbo ones are different) , so far the info i have found is that the S5 gearbox has more strengthening ribbing? I have a bellhousing to fit one of the above into the starion, and am looking at purchasing a box, would like to get the strongest one possible.

and fill said window washer bottle up with diesel. also some sort of lock/lsd rear for the 2 wheel action.

Are you dead sure its the injectors ? check the idle solenoid by listening to it and getting someone to flip the ign on. (mine did a similar same thing on my l20et before the idle soleniod failed) also clean the battery terminals of all things (mates one made all kinds of clicky noises then didnt start and thats all it was) L-series are the best

could the top strut bearings be siezed/rubbing ?