Bling

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Measured from top of arch as far as I know. Won't be many arches that don't curve inward. This part of the PDF covers bolt on flares, but if if you just have unmodified body, then measure the same way and should be good. I'm sure Clint will confirm yeah / nah. https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_05-2020_Tyre_Track_Protrusion.pdf this one shows factory body better vs tyre tread, only shows front/back profile with top of arch used as reference https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/tyres,-wheels-and-hubs/tyres-and-wheels#tab2 Unless it was posted by someone you know isn't an idiot... then take with salt. Front guards for example tend to just bolt on, so I can't see how they would link that to being structural. That said, people will probably ruin guard rolling too, by taking the piss and they will have to bring in rules. Had to flare mine to get enough clearance through full suspension travel for my cert. Didn't even come up as a mention when I explained how I got the clearance. Double skin in rear of mine so fold it over doesn't really change much. Front couldn't do much as bolt on single skin so weak as fuck arch.

Keen for your timing brains. Thanks for offer on burger but I pretty time poor as well tonight. But keen for some sharns for a bit anyway. Edit: oh lol, well if it can't be looked at tonight that's all good if you happy to short term lend it while I work out how such things work.

Does anyone have a timing light / the knowledge to check my Rolla if I drag it along? I have no idea what I'm doing so haven't solved my dieseling problem. Will just hang out pre burger as poor lol.

Is it 7 usually? I can't remember.

Yeah one of those helmets would do the trick for sure. I just rolled 18V fan blowing all the goodies out of the car and outside the environment. Can't really justify such luxury when I only weld once a year on average.

While painful to weld upside down, inside a boot, I never had any issues with plain wire + gas. I wouldn't do that with flux wire unless I was going to drink a lot of milk afterwards.

I guess no benefit for them to do so since they can't do the work and get the upsell. Compared the normal garage where you get a list and say getterdone.

Might have just been bad luck? My inverter welder must be ~10 years old now, doesn't get thrashed but has always done a good job for me on MIG stuff. Aren't both those inverter? Might have wrong link posted.

Seems legit till you get a new one. Has to be better than a snapped in half one.

I flushed my lines to death when I had my rear brakes rebuilt. There was a lot of gunk hiding in there so for the effort involved, it was well worth it.

No idea what the issue is, but i'd at least start with a flush and see how much crud comes out. I've had multiple rear brake balance problems in the past and the specs of dirt in the proportioning valves that caused it were pretty small. Doesn't sound like you have that valve, but i'm just mentioning it as it build up caused lots of headaches. So any build up could be contributing. Someone else will have had this issue before and comment i'm sure. But with old shit, and lack of fluid changes, build up occurs and can cause issues. Just something to start with anyway. I think the cars I had issues with were split diagonally for braking. Current old cars have a tee on the diff to split the single line from front. If no crud in the line to the rear and no build up in the rear tee (could be worth whipping off and cleaning out). Then yeah I guess something is up with master as that is the only other part in the system.

How many lines running to the rear? I would whip all of the fittings off and give them a good clean out. I'm guessing you have given the whole system a good flush?

Someone has probably put up a website with all of the different driveshaft lengths and their compatibilities. I'd hit up google for a while and see what you uncover. You're lucky they are a popular model with lots of info available online, many models aren't so lucky.

Looks to be the case, not a bad markup.

Price alone doesn't make you question the quality they could possibly be? I'm just struggling that's all.

How is your droop vs full suspension travel looking? From memory 40mm droop or 1/3 of full suspension travel. When I was building mine I was told to raise the rear to get more travel. But by the time I had diddled the bumpstop to be a more suitable size / taper, I had to lower the rear to stay within spec and hit my 1/3 mark. Many hours farting around with tiny adjustments on platform height / shock collar adjustments to get there.

I'd replace them just so that people will be less likely to have an accident with me. Making it harder for people to know your intentions is just a bad idea to me. They won't give way if they don't notice your little side blinker going in full sunlight etc. People on the road are bad enough as it is. So making it obvious where you are heading is handy lol. No idea what your car is either, but if it's new enough to have frontal impact shit, then maybe that would be an issue too.

Try https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/toyota?_s=h you'll have to work out roughly what the engine came from and go from there.

The rubber itself is probably going to have garbage grip by now. I wouldn't, but you could always have them inspected at a tyre shop and see what they say.

So i've showered but still smell like a British car, any tips? Good times though, I feel like we ticked a few boxes off today and made some good progress. Good to see the usuals and some new faces. Cracker weather and burgers, nice.

That reminds me, I was supposed to book cover. 12pm onwards is it? PM me addy and if we know what tools are / aren't needed. /I don't drink beer so no worries there

What size rotors are you planning to use? I managed to fit 276mm rotors with Dynalite calipers inside a 14x7" Hoshino Racing G5 or whatever they are. I can't measure it sadly as I sold them as tyres for 7.5" (rear) were too much of a ballache to get for cert. They now sit behind 15x7 XR4's and it's still a pretty tight fit. Caliper is probably closer to the rear of the wheel face rather than barrel, though I haven't tried to measure.

Find someone that welds good locally and pay them to teach you. It's not too hard to teach yourself, just need a bunch of scraps and some time to research what settings do what. Then just play with the machine till you get the results you are happy with. If you were to practice for 2 hours each weekend, you'd be pretty sorted after a month. You need to know what to look for with welds too. https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/tutorial.htm Read that, and check out the forum too, lots of things to look at. You'll gain the most from just zapping stuff together though.

More car details?