flyingbrick

What do you do for a living? U obviously aint a dummy!

3" would likely be fine if you look at power output for a 5.0 LS. https://m.roadkillcustoms.com/determine-proper-exhaust-tubing-size/ this has a good chart.

Damn you guys are smart. will reply back when this thing is either broken or modified

interestingly thats the same hp/cc figure of the MB

yeah thats 1hp more than mine when new

How many hp is a gn125 @tortron

Flick me a pm when ya ready and I'll show u how

nah mate, 6v. going 12v with fullwave rectifier and capicator bank was the best upgrade the bikes had by far. the 6v lighting was useless for so many reasons.

Here's the same circuit with 110v input,

Perfect. I'd have been real sad having my 100cc 2 stroke raped by the 125 4 stroke hahahahhaa.

Whats top speed of a gn125?

Thanks all. Will get into it soon, picked up motor. Same length, larger gearbox but smaller cylinder head. approx 20mm wider in gearbox. Roughly 10mm a side isn't as bad as expected. Plz keep eye open for any wr200s being wrecked as need quite a few parts

Well, If this is the most illegal thing that I do during this lifetime- then i'm doing alright. Once the shed is finished and the house is sold- I'm allowed a bigger bike, but i'd still LOVE to get this down to the cold kiwi next year. I feel rather defeated right now. @Truenotch had that filter on there since the start. When i got the bike it had no air filter at all. I did keep part of the plastic hosing to the filter which looked to be the biggest restriction but obviously failed. I'm going with it being on the edge of safety for the past year and the cold air was just enough to push it over the edge. Do other 2t guys use anything special to warn of impending doom? Knock sensors even? EGT seems to require a huge amount of experience to read reliably.

The flash sequence kinda stops and restarts. I tried probing the circuit last night to figure out if there was a place on the DC side of the circuit that i could power an arduino off. There is far more going on in this than i understand and the few areas i tried getting a voltage reading from REALLY upset things. EG, voltage would very quickly either increase or decrease once touching the probes. Apologies about my explanations, im no sparky lol. Iv put it back in its case now and will just use it as is (and maybe get a second charger @Roman)

Could it have been the cold air?

Iv had this thing wide open for quite large rides, this was only a few minutes in. Bought a wr200 motor pick up tomorrow. Will have to hassle @64valiant for use of his shop

Good idea. One strange thing is that on the PCB and housing there are two LED's side by side. One only goes if there is a battery fault- that looks like a normal LED. The LED that I need to measure doesn't look like a normal LED and I just cant figure out why. Its round but has a flat top on it rather than a dome. Real weird. I think I'll just give it a hoon and see what happens when tapping direct to it. If not then use a light sensor... that would work well if I stick the sensor inside the case pointing at that LED. Cheers,

Oh absolutely could, im just confused as to why its acting that way. Have never seen something so sensitive (except maybe the inputs on an arduino itself)

Yup key issue. We had that too. No need to go yo holden and spend $$$$$$. I think it was about $120 to get a replacement fitted to key and then programmed to suit car using one of those in-mall key cutters. What i can say is GET IT FIXED... Because it stops being intermittent and then ya stuck lol

Dewalt battery charger. 150 to 200 bucks to buy outside of a kit but has 1% of the functionality of my cheap multifunction Ali express charger. The main thing i miss is a buzzer to say it's finished- i charge quite a few packs at night so it would be nice. Currently an LED flashes when charging and lights solid when complete. I planned to use simple switch debounce code and arduino to sound a buzzer when the led stops flashing. I stripped charger and wanted to check voltage of led during the charge cycle..but even touching one multimeter probe to one of the LED solder pads upsets its flash cycle- and at that stage i decided to re-assemble before i broke something. Does anyone have any idea what could cause this? Must be extremely sensitive circuitry!!

Hey man. This coming weekend i have a bd party for a mate, lunch for in laws bd, a shed to build, tractor to assemble, and new motor to make fit into wb

About a 7mm home in the piston and quite a few rough spots and pitting over the piston. Last time i had the head off it looked great in there, dumb. Thinking now of fitting a compact single cylinder 200(ish) water cooled engine. These are physically tiny as no cooling fins so could be fitted without looking silly as fuck... And iv got a better chance of making it to cold kiwi next year if its not full throttle the whole time

I vote modifying the standard swingarm.. Just move the sprocket out on a spacer and move that one side of the swingarm out to suit. Nobody will really notice and it will look better than that cast wheel

whats the white thing in the background? Crane boom? Bridge?

I have no idea what ur making but looks cool