Vintage Grumble

If you happen to see/talk to him, could you hit him up for me? they dont have to be mint. Chur. Yeh, chassis is def OK, didnt get touched. And that is true about measurements, also it doesn't need to be perfect, aslong as it fits back togeather/gets WOF.

I'd like to, but i'd have to move the seat back close to a foot, kinda to tall, legs end up on mean angles, meaning I cant twist them round enuf to do it properly. They can be setup neutral no problem! don't lower it lots without fixing the roll centers or it will be a dog! I had a 101 trueno about 8 years ago, and all it had suspension wise was dobi springs, handled really well, and interestingly when pushed it oversteerd. Will be intersting to see what this ones like on the track. Had a quick look at this on the weekend, pulled off a few bits to get a good look at the damage, im starting to think I wont even have to replace the radiator support, as I dont think it counts as structural? Will just need to take to car with a slide hammer and give it the bash with hammers/dollies. Anyone know of a manual for these that has all the point to point measurments? Some pic's, Have started making a pile of crap I dont need for a WOF/making car lighter, like the air con/side skirts/carpet/boot liners and so on. Am happy the radiator is fine, and none of the wiring got mashed. It wouldnt jump start when I went to look at it, must have been a combo of shit leads and a dead battery. Slapped another battery in it, and jumped it with good leads, fired up first pop, motor sounds sweet, makes bugger all silver top pulley noise, which is nice, as they can sound like diesels. Will go visit the local wrecker and see what panels I can get soon. Only other thing I need to do really is new CV boots all round. Dude I got it off spent $600 on WOF items 3 days before he stacked it, so shouldnt need much else for legalness.

Yeh, im looking foward to having a FWD understeer party on the track! Also can now go in gravel club events. As for open quads, I happen to have a link laying around that will run this, it features in my plans.

Got a slightly crashed AE101 Trueno Sprinter off TM, damage is fairly minimal, got it for $450, which I dont think is toooo bad. To rebuild I will need LH gaurd/bonnet/radiator support panel. (If anyone knows of someone wanting to get rid of said parts im keen) Have already got the head light for $35 off trademe, bumper is saveable, and luckly the impact was above the chassis rail, so car seems to be pretty straight, couldnt find any cracks or wrinkles around strut tower and so on. Its fairly standard apart from homo spec muffler, and king springs. Plan is to rebuild it cheaply and get it legal, so me and the wife can use it for track days/dual sprints/motokhana's and the like, will one day end up a full on track car when funds allow.

Sweet, have instructed him to find a pump with cradle. I had to do this to my 86, when the pump gave up, put a silver top spec pump in there, was a lot smaller then the old pump, so cut and joined cradle, even had the correct plug, so didnt have to have any joined wires in the tank. Was a cunt to do on a AE70, only one hole in tank, and it was tiny, had to shave the hole a bit bigger, and find a tiny pump.

I dont know piss all about cressy's, didnt realise there was injected models, hopefully there is a second hatch with a decent sized opening in the tank, would make life much easier. The baffling may be a problem, as every time ive driven that car its had no gas in it, will have to look into foam as you say, doubt I will be able to get anything else in there. As for the pump, what sort of intank pump should we go for? I guess a factory soarer pump from a 1UZ/1JZ would be the go, If i could get the whole cradle from one, would make shit easy.

Looking at putting an intank pump in a cressy, seeing as they came out carbed, im guessing they only have the one hatch/lid in the tank? for the gauge/breather/outlet? Anyone put an intank pump in one of these? How big is the hole/what sort of pump will fit in there? (need to run a 1uz) Thinking of doing the old hang it off the gauge sender cradle job, as im not to keen to cut holes in the tank. I'll have to have a nose for inspection holes in the boot/under the seat before I drop the tank. Any help or information would be great.

That is poo's. Car looks fucking spot on tho, I likey very muchy.

Mmmmmm tempted. Would prolly be more comfy than the bike seat im useing.

eh no way. thats choice dont happen to know if he did anything to the engine? Nah, he didnt do anything to the motor, mind you I think its changed hands a few times since. He used to buy write offs and rebuild them, so he would have just done the rebuild/panel/paint and put the wheels on it.

Nice, I know this car, guy I worked with rebuild it (bout 10 years ago?) I went for a spin in it once, was pissed I couldnt drive it propper due to being to tall/fat. Any plans for it wheel wise?

Got this slut running tonight, well got half of it running ....... Fired up, sounded chur, then I realised one side wasnt going, shut it down and noticed the coupling half had split. They are made out of shitty porous steel, and it was bored to its max dia, so I think I will make a solid steel link, that should work I guess? Was encouraging that the motor ran so well tho, hopefully they will both run that well.

Spent all day working on this (first time at home/not in work time) got a little bit done, Got a carb from the local mower shop, have no idea what its off or what size motor its for, I think it may be a bit small, but will soon see if it runs the motors, Got the frame all tac'ed together, will braze/gas weld all the parts you can see/over the mig to give it that vintage look, Also welded the manifold, is a bit half arsed, but adds to the look I guess, Slapped some paint on it, will mess it up a bit later to age it a bit, Will clean the carb up soon, slap some exhaust pipes on the motors and see if it runs, hopefully in the next few days. Also ordered some new tires, they are a fair bit wider than the ones on the rims now, should make it look less bike like.

Put a rota in it!

Got a little bit more done, machined up spacers for the seat springs, cut up the original seat frame and bent it round a bit, Also bored the coupling halfs, cut the cranks down, and machined the front off the one way clutch, so its now just a funny looking nut to hold the flywheel on. Also bolted the motors down to some 30x10 flat bar, will be reinforced once attached to the frame. Will make up some sort of shroud to go between the two motors, to cover the coupling and make it look more like one motor, Slapped it into the frame for a nose, its sticking out one side a fair way because the bikes to close to the wall. The motor will sit a fair bit further forword than this, as the frame is a little slumped, the front uprite will be more vertical/closer to the front wheel. Will take the pull starter off and make up a crank handle, to make it look less mower like, Next thing to do is get carb, make manifold, and see how it runs. Will tac the frame togeather soon too.

Soooooooooo, been pissing around with this now and then, mostly at work, as my shed is full of crap. Aint done a lot, but that will change, should get a lot of things done very soon, some stuff I have done is, Sorted the basic shape of the frame Added a few pipes and taped it together Got the smallest Jaw coupling we sell in (its in that blurry ass pic some where) to join the motors. Father in law will be doing a bit of machining on this and a few other parts for me in the next few days. Also sorted out the seat today. Will have the frame spotted together very soon. Will pop down to the local mower shop tomorrow for a chat about carbs.

Thats a good looking wagon that is.

7 rib is the best block, not sure if they came with small port heads, is possible as that block dont have the external oil drain that the later 7 ribs have. The blue top/big ports are said to be a bit smoother/better reving as they have a smaller crank and con rods/lighter internals. I really cant remember all the different combos as my memory is so shit

Im not sure where the oil drain would feed from? Some ppl do feed them from the cam covers. There would have been a steel pipe along the side of the block, that went from water pump to heater core, and then from the core back into that block on the back of the head, but it looks like your one has had the pipe replaced with a rubber hose? If it was in a race car, they prolly didnt use a heater core. Also, the block seems to be a 7 rib (rather than a 3) so is the stronger block. The sump has been made bigger also, not sure what it would have been in, as cross member on most 4age powered cars would go through that added on section? ^ that shows std sump, rwd alt mount, and std water inlet thing.

The drain in the small ports is into the block, no 4age drains into the sump like that, that set up is home made, will be to stop the head flooding with oil at high revs, was a big prob in the early motors. And yeh, def not a 4age dizzy. Also that looks like a blue top ECU. Not sure why it would have 2x water temp sensors and a fan switch? (unless the had 2x water temp gauges?) Is there still a sensor on the back of the head in the little block that feeds the heater core?

Kinky.

^ Yes, fo sho.

Cant really visualize anything but red or gold now? Considered a dark metallic grey/charcoal, rather than black?

CV's never need repair, just refilling IMO, have run an ae92 with two balls missing out of a CV, was A OK. Clean, regrease, and WALK AWAY! As for bushes, get alloy stock, go to feek's, produce alloy replacements, fit, become a man.

Thanks for that, but it def has a hydraulic tensioner, as I already have all the parts. Im currently going through the NZ/OZ altezza club site to see if I can find the info I need, but im starting to think i'll just do it and see what happens, if all those spannerz watsons out there can do it, a fucking ace mechanic like myself should be able to figure it out ok