forced

Just look for a used oxy sensor from Pick a part, preferably from a car that's been crashed rather than thrashed. Hopefully you get a working one. You can buy new universal sensors but they're pretty crappy and not as sensitive as the "real" thing. A 4 wire sensor needs 12V to the heater when it's on. A single wire sensor won't but will be slow to warm up. The sensor generates the voltage, the monitor (kitset part) just lights the LEDs according to voltage recieved. No I haven't used one on a carbied car, Just EFI. Of course another option would be to use a Jaycar voltmeter panel and just read the voltage direct, they do both LCD and LED. Plug reading still works best though.You just cant do it whilst driving. Steve

As others have said, you're wasting your time even looking at the fuel system when the compression isn't right. Everything is dependant on something else. There's no way a carb will ever give the right AFR with fecked up compression. You'd want to check tappet clearances first to make sure all the valves actually close...... probably not. Steve

I would guess that either your points aren't opening or your capacitor is short circuit. Steve

OK so you got that from the "dumb chick" thread It's primary school physics. Fill the jug with water Turn it on As it warms up it makes a noise. No it's not the water starting to boil but it's the heat which "boils" the air out of the water. As it gets close to boiling point it gets queiter as nearly all the air has gone. When it reaches boiling point it suddenly gets noisier as the water begins to boil. Of course the air is 75 or so % nitrogen which doesn't dissolve in water, it's only really the oxygen that does in any great quantity and CO2 in lesser ammounts. Once it's boiled out.. that's it .(there's very little surface area for the oxygen to re dissolve back into the water)..... if you still get bubbles, you've got problems. Just that most people are in denial that they actually have a problem.

Eh what? There's no air in my cooling system. There's air dissolved in the water but that boils out as the water gets hot for the first time. The only time you'll get air still in there is when the headgasket isn't sealing properly, which is very common in turbo cars that aren't tuned properly. Steve

An FMIC doesn't normally help either...... blowing hot air through the radiator. Certainly not on my own mod list, nor ever likely to be. Steve

Theoretically , yes...... in practice..... no......otherwise everyone would have problems, particularly in 'Good" motors that spin to 10K rpm. Steve

Maybe you should be looking at the cause rather than the effect. If the ignition is retarded it will run hotter. If the AFR isn't right it will run hotter. The ammount of heat that the cooling system has to get rid of is closely related to your fuel consumption, therefore if it's good on fuel, it won't make excessive heat. Being a mitsi, having an aftermarket ECU, the chances of it being tuned properly are pretty slim. Also being a Mitsi, it's probably detonated a bit and the headgasket won't be sealing properly, You'll get air bubbles in the cooling system, that WILL make it overheat even more. Only when there's air in the cooling system. Porkies. The alternator has to work harder to make up for it. Steve

What will snap the valves? You're sounding like V V V now........... all theory , no practical. It's been done.....many times.... it works. Steve

When changing cams, you're supposed to get the cam followers refaced. For springs, all you need to do is to put washers under them to increase seat pressure, just make sure they don't bind. It'll go heaps better. Steve

If the theory doesn't work , then it's wrong. With a turbo motor, the average pressure in the intake manifold is very close to the average pressure in the exhaust manifold, therefore it will act in a very similar way to a N/A motor cam wise (pressure differential). Steve

It's more likely, if you've had a problem, that it's been caused by a mismatch with the turbo, rather than the cam being no good. The turbo mivec conversion is popular these days, it will get a lot more popular once the cam myths are thrown out. The specs I've found are (dur int, dur ex, overlap) 228, 232, 28 for the low cam and 300, 285, 88.5 for the big cam. I've also had a real killer of a cam in the V8 but it was so good the fuel pump had no chance of keeping up, that was the beginning of the end..........so I suppose I could say that a hot cam is no good with a turbo...... but it wouldn't be correct. Steve

Funnily enough turbos have been around for many more years than turbo cams. In my experience any hot cam will be better than a stock one.Maybe you could explain why mivec cams work so well with turbos? Steve

To me , you'd have been better off with the proper rally cam. A turbo cam just favours bottom end torque while loosing the top end. You'll be wanting to change it later. Spinning the camgear 180 deg is a bit hit and miss. It's better to just make the hole in the camgear bigger, then braze one side and file it to get it back to the right size. Steve

Maybe about 139Km/h. Of course the other way to look at it would be to look at your overall gearing now at about 5.88 and look whether you want to increase or decrease the revs and by what % then change diff / box gearing accordingly. Whenever I visit Pick a part the diffs from the Hi ace vans always seem to be missing, I've got an idea where they miight be going. Steve

You need to know what your max speed on the straights is likely to be first, then you can calculate backwards to work out how many revs you want to be doing at that speed. So at max speed you'd probably want to be towards the top end of the torque curve, so you don't drop out of it in the slower parts. Steve

Vinyl spray is actually coloured PVC in a solvent. So it's not really like paint. Anything that will remove it will also destroy the vinyl under it..... so there's no easy way. Steve

They'll give you surgical spirit which is ethanol not iso. Steve

You might be better to respray in in factory poo brown. Steve

I'd have thought you'd be better off to just get hold of a 3.545 LSD from a VR4 or a GTO and make it fit. The basic construction shouldn't be too much different. Steve

Normally when you get stuck it's because of a combination of problems. Your above explanation from the other forum sounds like BS, a 12V coil with ballast will give weaker spark though. It's quite commmon for people to spray their ignition system (dissy cap) with CRC or similar. What happens then is that dust will stick to it, then moisture sticks to the dust on a damp day. Then the HT starts tracking across the dissy dap which causes misfire.If the tracking continues it burns into the dissy cap which probably needs replacing. Just something to look at. Steve

There used to be a book availalable...... How to tune and modify weber carbys. Probably still is if you look hard enough. Got it sitting somewhere in my shed....... needed it when I had the 45DCOE on the turbo haha.but they're easy to tune so long as you can get the parts......even easier now with modern technology..... oxy sensors. Here you go Weber carburettors by John Passini published by speedsport motobooks 1973. It's a pommy book so must be good. No you can't have mine. The string and needle is used for setting up the linkage connecting the 2 together.... so they both start to open together. Steve

I didn't suggest it, You just misunderstood.That's just the common "old school" way of making it go better. The "old school" skim the head part involves upping the CR....... not just making it flat. Very common 25 or so years ago. Steve

Note ....... I said ......."skimming the head for more compression". There's nothing wrong with skimming a head to make it flat. To make any extra compression that's worthwhile, say bringing it up from maybe 8.5 to 9, or 9 to 9.5 involves taking a LOT off the head. Personally I've had 80 thou taken off iron heads and had ongoing problems which took me a while to figure out. All the strength in the head is in the deck, that's what supports the roof of the combustion chamber....... there's only a water jacket above it When the deck gets too thin the roof lifts slightly when the plug fires, unsealing the gasket. The gasket then reseals. Then lifts again next time the plug fires. But only under full load It's not very obvious on a N/A motor but the same thing will happen to ANY turbo motor when you use too much boost. Or on a N/A motor that was never intended for a turbo and had one added afterwards. The symptoms are blown (popped) radiator and heater hoses cracked top radiator tank leaking heater Leaking waterpump General overheating In a worst case situation you'll blow a hose clean off the motor........ that's after you've fixed all of the above. Modern Japper heads are better as the plug is in the centre and gives support but they will still fail too...... even stock. You must have seen cars at the drags getting 3/4 down the track then pop.... big cloud of steam.... hose blew off...... why?? The Hunter was one of the first to have an alloy head... they had both. The alloy heads were terrible for blowing gaskets.... I've had mates who've owned them. Even after skimming, the alloy heads would still blow gaskets....... of course each time they were skimmed the next gasket would blow a bit easier than the last one....... they got worse and worse. Not many left any more...... I wonder why? Steve