forced

Similar to a flux capacitor.

Compression rings are for........... compression. Oil rings are for..........................oil.

How sure are you?

Did the coil go open or short. They only break at the ends and can often be repaired without unwinding them. If it's gone short then it's sometimes possible to fix also without unwinding. As far as rewinding goes, you need to know the existing length of the wire and it's gauge, in order to get the right wire.

You'd probably better off to just give it new rings.

Check the resistance of the coil with an ohm meter. Stock coils normally about 3 or 4 ohms. MSD maybe a lot less.

Ideally you want a return from the fuel rail back to the surge tank AND a return from the surge tank to the main tank. That's so the surge tank doesn't try to overflow or build pressure seeing as your lift pump has more flow than your pressure pump. It also reduces the possibility of the surge tank running dry.

It's not hard. Peak torque is always before peak power. A clutch will start slipping (if it slips at all) just before peak torque, well before peak power. Peak torque is normally anywhere from 3000 to 6000 rpm , depending on the motor & mods. A motor with peak torque at 3000 might have peak power at 5500, a motor with peak torque at 6000 might have peak power at 7000 or higher. As for your previous post, I think you just made it up. So , if a supplier starts talking POWER, go somewhere else.

Anybody who knows ANYTHING about clutches knows that they're rated by torque, not horsepower. Anyone who talks horsepower is completely FOS.

It's only BB turbos that need restrictors. Fitting one might kill the turbo. As said, take the oil feed from the pressure senders hole via a tee. If you mount the turbo on top of the cam cover, you can drain it back into the cam cover instead of the sump. It's far easier.

A blow through carb setup is only good for low boost. Suck through is good for 15 pounds. Suck through FTW. If it's an old car I wouldn't even bother with EFI, these days LPG makes much more sense.

The side with the spring on it is the hot side. Steve

Putting water into a cooling system always causes a blown headgasket. Steve

I think that the most important aspect is that mild steel rusts from the inside out and .......... pretty obvious really. Post 35 or so.

Ahhhhhh you're describing how a flowbench works. The trouble is that a flowbench has little to do with what really goes on inside an engine, just a over simplification and a means of........ A flowbench only works in a steady state at or nearly at atmospheric pressure. A flowbench doesn't take into account momentum which is mass times velocity. Momentum is very important because for 60 to 70 % of the time there is zero flow in a port. So...... you know about fluid dynamics?? so, does air at atmospheric pressure flow in exactly the same way as air at double or even triple atmospheric pressure? I've never been able to get a straight intelligent answer on that one. Sorry for the OT wind up.

Yes, but what determines how efficiently said pulses move?? Camshaft

The scavenging is done by the reflected wave which is low pressure. It's exactly the same turbo'd or not. The turbine acts as a flywheel to actually increase the scavenging effect.

From what I can remember of them, there was something strange about the rear suspension. If you corner them too hard, the rear wheel tucks under and you end up on the roof. The Vitesse had slightly different rear suspension. Separate body/chasis too for both of them.

Mitsi GTO front turbo manifold is fabricated stainless. Rear one is cast. BTW anything you read about differential pressures between intake and exhaust manifolds, it's all BS. Exhaust flows in pulses, so does intake. Measuring average pressure at the turbo exhaust is not measuring instantaneous pressure after the valve, nor is measuring intake pressure in the manifold the same as measuring instantaneous pressure in front of the intake valve. Think of it as measuring a differential electrical signal that's pulsed DC using a DC voltmeter. All you get is an average reading. Should be measuring it with an oscilloscope.

Totally agreed with there. That's the trouble with quotes. The trouble using mild steel is that it rusts. It's OK when the manifold is new but if you strip the car, leave the manifold in the (damp) garage for a few weeks, you'll see flakes of rust falling off from the inside when you give it a bang. Rust flakes and turbines don't get on well together. I'm not talking short term here but long term. That's why I used stainless for mine. It's not quite so bad these days with unleaded but leaded fuel is deadly for rusting of exhausts. Why do the manufacturers always use either cast iron or stainless?

My mate's rally escort also got plenty of laps on manfield. From memory he was doing 1.21 or so 'cos I was a bit upset my V8 would only do 1.26. His brakes worked OK but a bit harder than what most people are used to.

One of my mates had an Escort rally car years ago. It didn't even need a booster. It started off as an 1100 with drums all round, he got front discs from a 1300 from memory. No booster needed, raced it like that no probs. That was with a hotted up 2 litre fitted.