brocky41

Starting to clear out the shed enough to work on this - front seat and rails is my biggest hold up atm. Unloading the rest of the spares from inside the car and putting them on their own shelf.

Hey im not really up with the play on these yet but I seem to have deluxe on the dash and 2 holes on the left below the boot - would this actually be a deluxe and was the green interior special / just an option.

@66gt any ideas

@Seedy Al - lush packaging there too

14 minutes ago, kyteler said:

8 grand for a race fatigued shell on biscuits.  Jog on.

"All fibreglass panels now gone" - fuck does it come with anything lol?

A few spares

Interior Shot

Might need a little rust work.

Yea "Wals" 330 coupe is now in storage so at least its dry - further gone than in those pics from memory.

@kirk28 those taillights look spectacular - are they all lights or just the corner ones still? Are you going to lower it? Jelly of the whole thing really.

@73crownwagon - rust work / panel beating on the wagon? Plans?

Century convertible ute?

I did 2 Taupo trackdays '08 '09 from memory and they were great - i know a bit harder these days to organize so maybe people that want to do track-days get together as a group and approach others groups / clubs that already organize them (less stress). I always say this for Autocrosses / Motorkhana and bent sprint events too as i know alot of regional car clubs are struggling with numbers at the smaller "fun" events and banding together keeps everyone happy.

I havent Nats'd since but i think the grasskhana is a must every year as it keep with OS's run what you brung and wont usually destroy car.

I also think, although not for nats time, but we need do do an OS South Drag Day - maybe Bart has some ideas - as it looks super fun but is 2 days each way for us down here to get to.

22 hours ago, Carsnz123 said:

If it was a silver one it is up for sale again. 1k from memory. very tempted but a little poor ATM. 

Na mine was this one - its still local and being refreshed (ie rust removal)

I lol'd that the GT-TURBO sticker was backwards - then you knew what was following in the rear view mirror

What about "Superturbo" lol - wish i had kept my LD20 R30 wagon now.

Nice project - keep the updates coming.

On 4/10/2018 at 18:13, Nominal said:

One for the Mitsi foamers. In a collection at Omaka.

 

@Nominal did you get any pics of the 260C Coupe behind it?

Wow nice work, I do like a good high revving V8 - please lift factory limiter a little

Extra wetness in the pics for extra shiney/up value?

I used to have a scooter - was badass for city hooning

On all my older glues in ones ive just used the heat gun to slowly heat the goo / sealant / screen - and with light pressure it releases.

Been mostly cars that Ive ripped the hoot lining out of first cos the heatgun causes fires way to quick

RD'd are good at blowing heads. SD's while have no power will run forever - I cant choose which is worse.

1 hour ago, RUNAMUCK said:

I just phoned a mate of dad's who used to be an LD28 GURU.  (20 years ago he used to offer a drive in, drive out LD28 conversion on all manor of cars) 

He said they're way more hektik with a light flywheel*. Might not idle as lush. But go heaps harder for what it is

 RFB flywheel/clutch here we come!

 

*not his actual words.

Was that Rick - he loves his LD's

On 2/27/2018 at 12:19, RUNAMUCK said:

Diesel is just kero with extra lubrication additives added. Jet-A1 is just very clean kerosene.  A1 mixed with atf would be legit as. I wonder if full synthetic atf would run an engine though? Some synthetic motor oils are quite resistant to burning.

I remember talking to oil guys while i was at BNT - even full synthetic is not 100% synthetic unless it says its 100% synthetic.

This write up from Motul is very good....

HOW IS MY OIL MADE?
Engine oil is essentially made from two key elements. Engine oil starts with a “base stock” which essentially serves as the bulk of the oil. This can either be made from mineral oil (based from crude oil dug out of the ground) that has been refined into usable oil, or formulated from synthetic compounds into a lubricating fluid with the same viscosity as mineral oil.
These base stocks are then enhanced with additives and detergents that take an engine oil’s capability from simple lubrication and allow it to cling to the surfaces of your engine. In doing so, as the oil flows through your engine, is also works by cleaning and protecting it from wear, oxidation, corrosion and the build-up of harmful sludge and deposits. When combined, these oils and additives are made to operate at the very high temperatures and pressures that arise in your engine, and vary in viscosity (the ease of how freely it flows) as your engine warms up.
While that all sounds simple enough, many oil companies have simply added confusing marketing spins to their oil namesakes, which serve no real indicative purpose of what the base oil is comprised of. And here-in lies the source of much confusion.

THE PROBLEM WITH ‘FULL SYNTHETIC’ OIL
The main problem with oils is that there is no actual regulation for what comprises an oil, or what is required of an oil, for it to be classed “Full-Synthetic”.
Fact is, in many cases, oils claimed to be fully synthetic are often made by highly refining and synthesising mineral oils to achieve a higher degree of purity than would otherwise have been achievable. Other times they may also be made using a large degree of actual synthetic oil, but are still not essentially “Full” synthetic by any means. They would more appropriately still be semi-synthetic oils.
As you can imagine, it pays to check with the oil manufacturer on what the base stocks of their Fully Synthetic Oil are actually made of. A lot of the time, you’ll be quite surprised to learn that they are actually not fully synthetic oils at all in nature, only by marketing name.
With the benefit of the doubt – it could well be 100% synthetic oil… but it could also be 90%, or 60%, or even 2%. In short, fully synthetic oil is a marketing term that in no way defines the quantity of synthetic content.

100% SYNTHETIC OIL
In order to make higher quality oils, high-performance oil companies will essentially develop molecules from scratch, which are then synthesised and produced free of any mineral or crude oils.
By doing this, the greatest advances in automotive oils are made, as new compounds and molecules are developed that are capable of greater lubrication, greater protection and higher resistance to pressure. This also means that companies can control the quality of every drop of oil in your bottle, as opposed to having to refine the quality of mineral base oils.
And the best part is, there is no escaping this 100% Synthetic terminology with fancy or confusing marketing terms. If it is so-called such, it must be 100% Fully Synthetic by regulation.
When you see the words 100% Synthetic on a bottle, such as in Motul’s H-Tech, 8100 and 300V ranges, that means that EVERY SINGLE DROP of oil in your bottle is a synthetically produced compound, mixed with fully synthetic additives. Guaranteed.

SEMI SYNTHETIC, SYNTHETIC BLENDS AND SYNTHETIC TECHNOLOGY
Many Synthetic Technology oils are made entirely of the aforementioned crude oils that have been synthesised into higher purity oils as mentioned prior, they’re just more honestly labelled.
Once mineral oils, synthesised mineral oils and synthetic base stocks are mixed into different blends, this is where the terms “Semi-Synthetic” and “Synthetic Technology” come into play. Synthetic blend oils come with a wide degree of these labels, and generally they consist of some form of mineral oil that has been enhanced with Synthetic base stocks.
Nowadays, the terms 'semi-synthetic', and 'synthetic base', are overused. These terms are also not regulated and therefore only a few drops of a synthetic base oil can be added to a mineral base oil to make it a “semi-synthetic”. Obviously the performance and protection of such a lubricant will be more like a mineral product than a synthetic product. Motul only uses one term for its semi synthetic technology – Technosynthese.
Motul's Technosynthese® lubricants are made from a very special blend of different synthetic base oils which can also include esters and mineral base oils for optimising performance, whilst considering market price implications. Many Technosynthese® lubricants can achieve the most demanding and stringent OEM approvals, which is a testament of their performance and quality.
There’s so much confusion when it comes to oil, but by doing your research and investing in a trusted brand such as Motul, you can avoid the marketing spin that comes with a great deal of engine oils.
Look for 100% synthetic on the label, and do your research when considering investing in a full or semi-synthetic oil.

In other words - "should burn mint in your coal roller" lol.

I tried the half and half used atf and diesel in my td27 navara for around a year 20,000kms with no problems at all. Then i got greedy and got a 205L drum of unknown ratio petrol diesel mix (fresh from rentals) and the pump seals cried enough.

I had to laugh when the garage that pulled it off was asked by the pump re builder "what the hell is this guy running the thing on cos there's shit everywhere in it and it smells like oil and petrol". My garage said they'd have a word to me but they knew what i was doing.

Petrol was definately the culprit as im now running my ride on with that same 205L - should have tried that first lol.

I had also been running the ATF straight from the flush machine so some sort of filtering prior is a must.

The $1000 bill hurt so havent done it in that diesel since - next up the TD27T Terrano lol.

Anyone else have wacky ideas

5 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Nah.

Just a wakeboard boat with an LD28 running an Eaton M90 pushing 1 bar of boost 24/7 (because diesel-no TB full boost always while running) with a water to air intercooler utilising the unlimited supply of cold water that the boat floats in. Zero heat soak, low intake Temps,  stable and safe running. Plus because one bar of boost always no massive black clouds of smoke ever.

And diesel is cheap as fuck. And nothing makes instant torque like a belt driven pump. Perfect for wakeboarding 

 

Also run on filtered chip fat / used atf and itll pay for itself in lol's in no time. Ah the smell of a good fush and chup while your out on the water.

Good work guys

Ill Swap you steelies aaaannddd hubcaps lol - but serious.

For Skope - get earlybird tickets if still available - $40 for the 3 days or its $40 single saturday, $50 single sunday

2 minutes ago, 66gt said:

 Bloody shame really as the old Barry will pop his clogs and the lot will probably get crushed.

Has already popped his clogs - not all is getting crushed though.