KKtrips

Heartily approve

No, unfortunately, he is about an hour and a half drive from my work. 2 hours from home. You driving it over?

The DynaSar will be NA (probably). So must have - dual sensitive in the front outer - lap in the front middle - dual or single sensitive in the rear outer - lap, static, dual sensitive or single sensitive in the rear middle edit - sorry I thought you were asking a question about what type of belt you had to fit.

Cannot do. Photos and paperwork is the property of NZTA. Can provide a copy of the cover page only. Which you should have anyway. Though the information on the cover page will only explain the abbreviations on the cert plate.

No different to people faking plates/declarations as they do now. Expect a trip to court wnen you get caught. This has been thought of and there is a mitigation in place. Not sure if it is my place to say though. Also people will be able to access the info without an RFID scanner. You will require 2 codes to be entered manually in place of an RFID scan. It won't be a number plate as one because they change.

Progress, all the last bits and pieces came together tonight. Ended up hard-tailing the ass end cos tyre guard clearance might be an issue with my fat ass.. Tasks left, need to true the front wheel cos it is a little wobbly and the tyre is so wide that it rubs a little bit on the inside of the fork legs. But not so bad it will be a major issue. Also need to get a little bit of tube to finish hardtailing the rear end. Got it on the ground and running, put it in gear and rode it under its own power about 2 metres but to go riding required outside moving cars and it was dark so no go tonight - still going to call the small move under its own power a victory. Oh yeah - the idle note is the perfect pop pop pop pop pop with a healthy rasp when I give it a twist.

Same Buying some soon-ish

That last pic of yours is pure sex Alex, I hope you are going to run a pair of 40 IDA triple throat Webers from an early 911 on the Goldwing motor.

Also search pillar bolt - from memory they are sold in NZ by a company in Chch https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EARLY-HOLDEN-BARREL-BOLT-B-PILLAR-SEAT-BELT-MOUNTING-BOLTS-2-BOLTS-/264184270301 BTW - don't buy aluminum ones

Are they a loaded arm and do they use a spherical rod end?

I forgot that Hell-bows was the nickname for Phuel. Also sick new whip Phuel. Needs SSR Mk3's

I would but I'm keeping it, there is something a screwy with it though, can't figure out for the life of me how the spring attaches, so off it comes and I'll stash it for servicing purposes.

Pretty much ready to roll, need to weld on muffler and lose the centre stand. Then shakedown followed by a bunch of fixes. Thanks a shit tonne to Goat, Seedy and the general peanut gallery who make an appearance each week to encourage me with farts and general wise cracks... PFT After Summer will be the strip down and tidy up, right now I'm going rat-rod spec.

Should probably get it ready for it's 10th anniversary of my ownership. No wait I mean 11th. Maybe make it 12th to be safe. Fuck it, lets go lucky 13th year of ownership reveal party.

Progress is happening on the rust!! WooT!! Also went to do finally assembly on subframe today and had a bit of a hiccup with some nuts and washers, even though I gave the nut and washers to the guy to match, he still got them wrong, cue RAGE QUIT. (probably exacerbated by cunt of a job it is to get the lower suspension arms in, 4 things have to line up and they don't) But at least I got the brakes back together.

Make sure it is grunty enough to split a full round into 6-10 pieces in one push.

Meeeeee? Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo.

I have checked the paperwork and it was correct so I have got the wheels moving to get the plate remade. Go back and see Ian, hopefully by the time you see him, he should have the corrected plate on hand.

/beaten like a cheap hooker at a truck stop

Combination of leverage, increased weight and increased HP giving less time for the heat to disipitate between heat cycles. But I understand the extra leverage plays a massive part.

These just popped up on FahBuh right now for $750 - nice and close to you in Havelock too... https://www.facebook.com/groups/1524300857866952/permalink/2421554838141545/?sale_post_id=2421554838141545&ref=messenger_banner

Most Hilux's have to stick with 31" tall tyres and give the brakes a full overhaul. Are you running Safari axles?

FYI - potential solutions are 33x10.5 tyres on a 7"wide rim and you are also allowed to fit 33x12.5"wide tyres on an 8" wide rim. The LVVTA tyre chart says minimum 8.5" but its changed and the tyre-rim chart has not been updated yet. In saying that, the problem you might have with 33" tyres is hauling that bad boy up and passing the brake test. Hiluxes can fail on 33's with a 3 stop brake test, yours being a scratch build requires a 5 stop brake test and I think that you are going to have an issue passing a brake test.

Spent the morning cleaning up the last couple bits to put the subframe together, had the sexy @Steelies and his good lady Ms Steelies call in and say hi, then @LoveChild made a surprise visit soon after. Bloody nice of y'all. Decided I need a bunch of gold passivated bolts to make it all look pretty so compiled the bolts I need to buy and hopefully I can find them all this week. Anyhow after doing all those bits and pieces I got onto the bit I was not looking forward to which was to clean up the shitty looking brake calipers and mounts. Broke them down to the individual components and proceeded to wire brush the living shit out of them. I was going to vapour blast them but I'm happy with the outcome especially at the low low cost of 90 minutes of elbow grease and this before and after doesn't really do the justice of how much nicer they look now. So anyhow after a morning of filth and grime, I went to Ms Steelies coffee shop and rewarded myself with the finest coffee in Wellington (Coolsville in Hataitai for those who care) and currently kicking back in my tracksuit pants and hoodie in front of the heat-pump pretending its an open fire. Enjoying a windless but brisk Wellington winter afternoon listening to podcasts with my pussy giving me the stink eye. Your pal, Dave

LVVTA Wheels and Tyre Standard says... Aluminum wheels must not be repaired unless the repair is carried out in accordance with the requirements specified for wheel repair within the Land Transport Rule: Wheels and Tyres 2001 (Rule 32013), in which case it is not a modification. Land Transport Wheels and Tyre Rule says... 3.2(5) A repair to an alloy wheel must: (a) be compatible with the material specification of the item to be repaired; and (b) restore the damaged or worn wheel so that it is within safe tolerance of its original state when manufactured, as able to be demonstrated by a physical test