KKtrips

Looks like a serious bit of kit and would probably be overkill for anything other than an uber mega slam. IMHO bolt on = fuck off. Be like Mike and weld it in.

I died a little / a LOT on the inside.

Unfortunately not, can only be used on a scratchbuilt vehicle with 1 row of seats or it requires motorsport authority card.

Doing a bang up job boyo. Good on ya man.

Got a week off work for a nice break. Spent a few hours today wire-wheeling back the whole back underseat area, etch priming and then sealing that shit. It was fucking exhausting. #shutupoldman Also stripped down the 304 to pull the cam to send to Voldo for a new profile and new roller valvetrain. Only broke one bolt, which was surprising, no evidence of overheating and looks top have been fairly well maintained over the years. Probably just high mileage if anything. But its getting a rebuild anyway so wont matter. Tomororow I'll hopefully start on sound deadening, but judging from the state my back is in now, I don't think I'll be ripping into it too hard.

B-pillar wouldn't be a problem, more what is within headstrike distance.

If you have anything hard within 300mm of the back of the seat then yes you will need a headrest, I suspect the cage will be your nemesis.

I got asked about adaptors vs spacers the other day, so thought I would post the bit about adaptors here so they are both together Wheel adaptor design and manufacture 2.5(4) A wheel adaptor fitted to a low volume vehicle between the hub and wheel assembly to affect a change in the wheel stud pattern or pitch circle diameter, must: (a)be purpose-designed for automotive applications, manufactured by a recognised automotive wheel adaptor manufacturer or be manufactured by a person who is recognised by an LVV Certifier as: (i)being competent and experienced in the type of work being undertaken; and (ii)having the necessary equipment to carry out the manufacturing process correctly;and (b)be manufactured from a single block of suitable material; and (c)be of a thickness that, (i)unless the hub assembly donor vehicle is substantially heavier than the vehicle to which the adaptors are fitted, provides a maximum spacing of each wheel away from the hub surface of 30 mm; and (ii)does not exceed the maximum allowable amount of offset specified in 2.2(8)when the wheel adaptor thickness is included within the wheel offset. Wheel adaptor location 2.5(5) A wheel adaptor fitted to a low volume vehicle between the hub and wheel assembly to affect a change in the wheel stud pattern, must locate with a close tolerance fit using the centre spigot or tapered wheel nuts or bolts: (a)the adaptor against the hub assembly; and (b)the wheel assembly against the adaptor. Wheel adaptor attachment 2.5(6) A wheel adaptor fitted to a low volume vehicle between the hub and wheel assembly to affect a change in the wheel stud pattern, must attach: (a)with no interference between any fastenings attaching the wheel to the adaptor, or adaptor to the hub assembly; and (b)using wheel nuts, studs, or bolts for both the attachment of the adaptor to the hub assembly, and the wheel to the adaptor, that: (i)are a correct match for the type of wheel stud or bolt hole; and (ii)are of a type purpose-designed for automotive use; and (iii)are of a suitable size and pitch circle diameter to carry the loads imposed under normal vehicle operation; and (iv)incorporate not less than the minimum required amount of wheel stud or bolt thread engagement specified in 2.4(4). 2.5(7) A wheel adaptor must not be fitted to a low volume vehicle in conjunction with a wheel spacer or another wheel adaptor

I hope you are planning on similar or lower stance...

Excepting the case of the trailer that broke the drawbar and crossed the centreline and head-on'ed with a vehicle coming the other way.

Have a half day slot booked every weekend to smash some work on the Commy. Ended up spending the last few weekend slots fucking around with moving lockup shit around. But it's all in good shape now and managed to get some more progress this morning. Stripped the rest of the interior out. Stupid me should have done this before painting the floor (I forgot to take out the sound deadining from under the back seat) At least I now have full access for rewiring the interior. Going to spend a couple of days cleaning, vaccuming and tidying up the interior before doing anything more in there. Need to figure out what product I need to use to clean the headlining and glued on pillar trim plus restore its suppleness - if thats even possible. So that's 2 steps back today. (I think I'm about 573 steps back at the mo) But 1 step forward, I replaced wheel bearings, refitted the brake rotors and calipers then fitted some new braided hoses with new stainless connections. Was going to start on replumbing the brake lines, but that's probably most of a full day there, so that's another weekends job

From Seats and seat anchorages - NZTA Vehicle Portal

Use the correct doubler plates to mount it to the trans tunnel and get it certified. The standard you need is to follow from half way down page 27 - https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Seatbelts_& Seatbelt_Anchorages.pdf

$2500-3500 last time I looked into a buying a complete T5. I did a conversion on my Commy with a W56, 2nd hand Dellow bellhousing and new clutch, not including the gearbox rebuild, custom cross member and driveshaft mods, I was in the deep end of $2000 just for the core parts.

Vehicle has been changed since declaration and won't match. So it requires cert. Anything that matches the declaration will be assessed to general safety requirements and recorded on the plate as such. Anything not listed or that does not match will need to meet current requirements.

Exempt Class A is farm vehicles that have to cross the road every now and then. Probably some struggling cow cockie registering his 2019 Audi Q7 on the cheap because milk solids only gave him a high 6 figure take home pay last year instead of a low 7 figure.

H* factory manuals are small AF gearboxes so can't put a tonne of power through them, if you can handle not 5 or 6 spd, then an Aussie 4 spd would be the go. SBC and Holden bellhousings are very similar. 2 bolts different IIRC. If you need 5 or 6 speed then get the best you can afford, they are all going to need some modification and all pretty much equal.

Fuck yeah

I've found out since starting at LVVTA that the button style are actually droop stops and not bump stops. Bump stops must be progressive and have the ability to cushion.

Minimum of 40mm suspension droop (unless some really lightweight thing like a Lotus 7 replica) Spacer requirements start from page 17 - https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Wheels_&_Tyres.pdf Spacer requirements for all wheels 2.5(1) A wheel spacer fitted to a low volume vehicle between the wheel and hub assembly, other than that fitted as original equipment by a high volume vehicle manufacturer, must: (a)be purposed-designed for automotive applications, and either be manufactured by a recognised automotive wheel spacer manufacturer, or be manufactured by a person who is recognised by an LVV Certifier as: (i) being competent and experienced in the type of work being undertaken; and (ii) having the necessary equipment to carry out the manufacturing process correctly; and (b) have a maximum spacing of each wheel away from the hub surface of 20 mm; and (c) be manufactured from a solid block of suitable material; and (d) have two machined or die-cast surfaces that are parallel, and contain minimal indentations or irregularities; and (e) be fitted as to ensure the wheel locates snugly over the hub spigot so that the hub carries the weight of the wheel assembly instead of the wheel studs, or where there is a mis-match between the hub spigot and the wheel centre, a close tolerance fit center bore locator must be provided; and (f) be set-screwed or attached by another secure method to either the wheel or hub face; and (g) maintain, with the spacer fitted, not less than the minimum required amount of wheel stud or bolt engagement; (see below) and (h) not be fitted in conjunction with another wheel spacer or wheel adaptor. Additional spacer requirements for cast aluminium wheels 2.5(2) A wheel spacer fitted to a low volume vehicle with cast aluminium wheels, or any other wheels that incorporate a full hub contact surface area, in addition to meeting 2.5(1), may incorporate additional holes within the spacer for multi-fitting purposes, provided that: (a) the spacer is designed to fit only one stud configuration; and (b) there is sufficient material provided between the multi-fit holes in order to resist deformation of the spacer. Additional spacer requirements for pressed steel wheels 2.5(3) A wheel spacer fitted to a low volume vehicle with pressed steel wheels, or any other wheels which incorporate a minimal hub contact surface area, in addition to meeting 2.5(1), must not incorporate any additional holes within the spacer other than those used to: (a) where the design of the hub assembly allows,locate the centre hub spigot to the wheel, which must be a close tolerance fit; and (b) attach the spacers to the hub face or wheel rim; and (c) enable the wheel studs being used to attach the wheel to pass through, which must match the stud pattern of the vehicle NOTE: ‘Configuration’ means, within the context of 2.5(2)(a), that whilst a spacer can be of a multi-fitting design in that it fits varying pitch circle diameters, it must be of a type that will fit either a four-stud wheel ora five-stud wheel, but not both. Spacers that will fit both four-stud andfive-stud wheels must not be used in any situations. Wheel stud or bolt engagement 2.4(4) A wheel stud or bolt attaching a wheel to a low volume vehicle must engage into or through the corresponding nut or hub assembly by either: (a) not less than the diameter of the stud thread; or (b) a specified number of full turns of thread engagement, which must be not less than: (i) in the case of a 12 mm metric stud or bolt with a 1.5 mm coarse thread pitch, 6.5 turns; or (ii) in the case of a 12 mm metric stud or bolt with a 1.25 mm fine thread pitch, 7.5 turns; or (iii) in the case of a 14 mm metric stud or bolt with a 1.5 mm coarse thread pitch, 7.5 turns; or (iv) in the case of a 7/16 inch, 1/2 inch, or 3/8 inchimperial stud or bolt, 7.5 turns; or (c) in the case of an unmodified hub assembly,not less than that originally provided for the fitment by the original vehicle manufacturer.

If you are after a set of Tridents for this beastie... 7" front and 8" rear. Then give me a PM.

My magic 8 ball says "I dunno", but if I had to guess, someone probably had a friend at the post office back in the day and got the name changed in the system. Daytona Beach Buggy's are kit cars and they always have met the definition of a scratchbuilt vehicle If it was built before 1992 it should have a declaration, if it was built after 1992 it should have an LVVV cert. If it doesn't have either then whoever is inspecting them for a WoF should get a kick up the ass. If it had a declaration but it's registration lapses, it will require cert for the rego to be re-livened.

You make me want to cry.

As it has not been continuously registered since LVV certification coming into force (1992), then it requires a cert for the change to convertible and it should have had one in 1997. If you are trying to avoid current requirements, you would need to provide evidence to back up a completion date, something like photos that can be dated, invoices for work related to the modification, insurance documents, a magazine article that confirms the modification and it's identity. However, documents such as statements from previous owners are not acceptable. I'm not sure the requirements now would be massively different to 1997 so the prudent approach in this case would be for a certifier to assess the vehicle to current requirements and anything that does not meet now that could have met an earlier requirement, would have to be considered by the LVVTA Technical Working Group on a case by case basis, considering the validity of the evidence and the requirements it would have had to meet at the time.

Done