KKtrips

It'll buff out.

Yeah sucks a little, but no. I'm pretty confident that hitting a parked car will be relatively indefensible though.

Build thread updoot. Drat and double drat. Good thing is I have insurance, truck that hit me has insurance and the guy admits full responsibility. Now to put the insurance companies in the ring together and see who gets knocked the fuck out.

No silly, he used to be a pizza hat.

I've just done a quick online check and looks like 18RG is a shim type arrangement for setting valve clearances. Sorry I should have checked first. This is typically a set once and forget deal (when putting the head together) and is considered an advanced level job so if you are not sure then it would best be left to the experts. It probably doesn't need doing but if it does then Murray at Weber Specialties will tell you.

@64vauxhall will know the ticket for cheap sources of good sound deadening.

Looking good man. Are you going to smash a bunch of sound deadening on all the panels? Inside the doors, floorpan, frunk and engine bay? Imagine driving a quiet Beetle. Sweet dreams are made of these. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-stereos/wiring-kits/auction-1341635468.htm

For reference, I have 290mm vented front rotors and 280mm solid rear rotors on the Commy with similar HP to an NA 1JZ - probably weighs the same as a Crown and it pulls up pretty reasonably.

Disc brake rear end and appropriate master cylinder would probably be sufficient upgrade.

I'm assuming that it's been idled around the shipping yard, customs, vehicle testing etc etc so it will probably be carboned up quite a bit from all the slow speed running. But eliminate items one by one in a methodical process. Start with setting the timing to a known OK (as Spence says, 10 degrees with the vacuum off and plugged) Next check things like oil is not overfull and for manifold leaks etc, silly things that should be picked up in regular maintenance. Then compression test and that includes setting tappets and I would even give it a bit of a hillbilly water injection to clean off any excess carbon crap inside the combustion chamber. Finally check the carb is set right, but seeing as it has come from Perth I would say the climate is much different to Auckland so will probably need different emulsion tubes and chokes at the least. So for that I would take it to Weber Specialties up your way and get him to dial it in. He would have the full range of jets and emulsion tubes and chokes to get it purring. When setting up the carbs they will adjust the timing to as much as the carbs will allow and what the motor can handle. It might cost a few hundred but unless you get someone keen to do a perk who knows their shit and has all the bits then you'll be chasing your tail and probably spend more eventually. (the cost to tune will be substantially less than what you paid to bring it over) Ask @vivaspeed how good Weber Specialties work is. http://www.weberspecialties.co.nz/

Here are some more pics of it in chassis mock-up stage. I think those pics in the post above may have been how it first turned up.

Just looked and it was a Ford pickup And this is his Trans-Am

Call Kevin at Autocare Kilbirnie. He is in Wellington and is very good. Have a chat and lay out your plans and see if he can meet your needs. Driving it to Wellington and getting a flight home should be a small part of the cost of what you are doing. The reason I thought of him is I know he has done something similar for a 70s Chev pickup for the guy who owns Placemakers Tell him KK sent you. He hand built his own Trans-Am racecar too.

I can vouch for Daif/Nu Del.

Thread is 10 years old. She hasn't posted for 8 years or been online for at least 3. So chance of an answer is minimal sorry.

Won't matter unless it is in gear or you try to put it in gear. With the clutch pedal out it us fully engaged anyway.

Shit me they were an ugly car back in the 90s when they became a more common appearance in NZ through Jap imports. Still ugly but kind of a trendy ugly. I must have mellowed in my old age. Approved!

Fucking hell Joshy, what a fucking weapon From this... to this in 2 months... Loooooooooooooooooooong whistle and let's be honest - the first picture is doing it justice...

Yup as above, check if you can turn it over by hand to eliminate a dodgy starter or battery. If it is seized then be a kinda gentle swinging on the strong arm. If this makes sense, put some strength behind it and "prise" it free rather than shocking it. Shock loading it can break a compression ring. Oil, diesel, CRC/WD40 down the bores will help a lot too.

Try Mico Metals in the Hutt. They have all kinds of non ferrous metals and sell offcuts.

Come up on Saturday Gary, stay the night for a few ales/sharns.

Kicker, go see Steve at Bridgestone Miramar. He did the wheel alignment on my Coon and turned it from a bit of a wanderlust dog to a point and go sweetheart. Good price too.

See you there