fishtailfred

Hmmm, you sure? "low and uneven" seems to be what I have written on a dozen old ute warrants

Fight it hard. These guys are right, except : Indicators don't mean dick legally. (some of our laws are SO fucked up...) I dug up this thead because I'm going to the Nurburgring for the weekend and this car will be there : http://www.mende.belgienet.be/homepage/show/1437927.jpg I'll try to snap a few pics of it for you if you want. Fred.

Mines all 1.6mm : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_4432.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_4360.jpg Mine will never see any fuel, so it's all painted with primer and black in and out. Fred.

Carb or injected? If carb, do nothing is fine, If injected, rattle can some zinc primer on there. The petrol will wash away the paint where it touches it, but the bits the petrol touches won't rust anyway (oily residue from the additives). Nothing wrong with mild steel intakes anyway

Velocity (and therefore turbulence) are a lot lower from a slight breeze blowing through radiators and air con and intercooler and and and etc. Yeah, it helps for sure, but many put heat shields etc on them too. Speed inside the manifold is a lot higher. Laminar flow is not really present inside the manifold in the true sense. It's more about how bad or not bad the turbulence is I agree that the cold on the outside is a big factor, but not as big a factor as you or I might like due to the rate of exposure of gas.

Thanks vega, cept it looks like testament said it I agree, I definitely would have ceramic coated mine if I had time, but I didn't. You can DIY it, or get it done, it's WAY more effective than glass insulation too. I sand blasted mine on the inside just to ensure there was no loose stuff in there.

I'd love to agree 100% with you (just to irritate vvvvv), but that's only part of the story. The other part is the air on the outside is more or less static and therefore has a boundary layer which will grow warmer (much like water between the hairs on your legs if you swim in a cold pool/ocean/lake and keep still). whereas the ex gasses inside are rushing through ever so fast and therefore a lot more effective at conducting heat. EGT figures are typically not high enough to melt steel anyway. The pistons are dumping heat into the head (through quench) and the bores constantly too, hence they stay cool enough. Also, there is a boundary layer on the piston which protects it somewhat. When knock occurs, that boundary layer is disturbed and a lot more heat is transfered into the piston, hence insta melt when detonation occurs. I'll be sure to do some bonnet off videos of 5th gear on the limiter burnouts with glowing parts for you lot when I get home

http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10772 This ute is AMAZING! 34 pages, one magazine feature, 4 times the firewall has been re-sculpted, huge brakes, TT V6, sweet paint, the works, and still not quite finished! But ever so close

+1 (and if you do, you can get away with a less expensive disk)

Mild steel twin scroll manifold with hx35 making 580crank hp without melting or bursting etc. 28psi boost.

Yeah, I guess there could be a middle one missing

I doubt it's a 6 because you can see the gasket outline all the way round and the join in the middle. = 4 or possibly half a set from an 8, but unlikely. Definitely crossflow of some sort unless the ports were very strange indeed for the ex side. The east west thing seems logical for another reason too : firewall space. they are designed to be stumpy, and would sit fairly tall needing a lot of room upwards. So, transverse with the inlets at the back and ex on the front. That rules out some vw engines at least. Not sure what else. Other than that, I have no idea Interested to see/hear though. Fred.

I stand corrected.

2.0 is enough ey, it will give you a solid minute of full noise, 2 minutes of half noise etc, you will never exceed that. 100 x 200 would be ok. bigger is better, but overkill isn't helping really. more = longer for you lift pump running dry too those top fittings can be on the very top if you want too. my surge > tank return is from the top, the others are on the sides. EDIT : removed bad info.

At the rail you should have some hose separating it from the engine by a decent amount anyway to allow the engine to move. http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_0131.jpg bottom right corner, you can see the stockers just poking out. The white plastic clip is floating and the next one is maybe 100 - 150 or so below that and attached to the cab. Those are the original lines, I couldnt find any finished pics, but they terminate in the same place and have hoses up to the engine just like stock.

undo the adjustment on the cable and adjust the shoes correctly with the drums off, then redo the adjustments. I seem to remember there being two places underneath and one nut at the back of the lever. all this is from an 89 though, so maybe quite different on yours. I also hand filed the stalk in the dash smooth and the damn thing never worked so well since it was brand new

3/8 both ways is mint that will ensure you are problem free! Easy bend you say? bending 3/8 is a bitch for sure (by hand under a ute anyway lol) much harder than 5/16 or 1/4. If you get hold of that and its good, post the details here please. I know you have to fix the lines every X under the car, but I can't remember what X is. 200mm rings a bell, but it might have been 400 and I just went nuts as usual? Check with your cert guy about mounting it. If it has any shape to it, the normal mounts will define where the ends end up and how stiff they are. I attached mine together at the ends just like stock and they are solid as.

I used 3/8 for mine, but I wanted to ensure it was ok should I decide to go really big with an HX52 or something. 5/16 is fine for that power. 3/8 supports a lot of power. Do ensure your return lines are adequately sized though, preferably equal to the feed lines, but can be a little smaller. I had 5/16 feed to the engine, and 1/4 return. that would not have worked, so i ripped out the 1/4, moved the 5/16 over, and put 3/8 in it's place. 5/16 return half of the way back, stepping up (through overbored fittings) to 3/8 behind the cab. If your return is too small, at idle you will have too high a fuel pressure and at full noise, it will drop. this will make tuning a pain and or screw up an oem ecu. Fred.

That entirely depends on the linearity of the coefficient of friction of the compounds used. 210 is less than 240 fyi .... 240 is turbo silvia, turbo skyline, turbo rx7, and now, turbo ute na skyline is 225mm, same as na ute. nordlock is brilliant, locktight is good too, hence, both are used

My weight distribution is not like you think it is... I had traction issues in all gears in the wet with bad tyres. My semi slicks held it down in the wet in 3rd sometimes, 1st/2nd never. dry was fine except 1st. it has ute ratios though. 3rd = 2nd in a more modern car... 5th = 4th... 1st is 40kph or so and useless. I NEED an rx7 box badly. I have plenty of weight behind the rear axle, and significantly reduced (and to be reduced more) weight up front. My clutch is 240mm. I imported a flywheel from ozzy to go with that over the 225 that would have been a lot easier. I did this to give myself some more heat headroom as I am hard on things. I machined the flywheel down and fitted a smaller ring gear to match my bellhousing etc and lightened it ever so slightly. I also machined the pressure plate down too, and clearanced the bell. I used Cap screws with nordlock washers to hold it down. I don't know what the ca18detr comes with stock, but i'd be surprised if it was less than 225, amazed if less than 200. pressure matters infinitely more than diameter/area anyway. if you have X cm ^ 2 and apply 1 tonne to it, you get Y friction. you can half and double X without affecting Y much at all. That is why pucked clutches work so well. Only heat is changed with area... My goal is 50/50 weight dist for whipping evo/sti arse on the track. I'm not there yet, but I'm well on my way. It felt pretty good in the twisties despite being brand new with no allignment etc. I've softened the rear etc to ensure better grip too. My clutch and fly : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_3672.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_3697.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_3674.jpg Enjoy.

the organic clutch keeps working till it is too thin If you don't slip it, it doesnt get thin fast. If you slip it for longer than an instant, it burns and gets thin FAST If you drive well, you won't kill it If you suck, it will die fast

I'd say you are unlikely to do better than 400nm with your setup and the boost you intend to run. Opinions may differ. torque is roughly like this : 100nm * litres * ((15 + boost)/15) = torque you can do worse, but not likely to do much better if any. if you wanna go foam, cool I'd do it with two pumps though, but its a personal thing really.

i think my clutch cost around 450, mostly for the pressure plate, the disk with 8 decent chunky springs cost 80. it holds all of my 400nm or so, and 7500rpm and clutch drops into 3rd just fine. spending massive amounts on a clutch in a street car that is for driving and fun and not drag racing is just stupid. if you wanna build a drag car, A expect it to cost, B expect it to fuck out often. A Does the clutch hold the torque you will make (400nm is what 19psi will get you on a ca18det roughly) B Does the clutch hold that torque?? C ditto D ditto E can it absorb a bit of heat and keep holding it maybe F can it absorb a lot? no G do you want your clutch or box to fail? clutch H do you want to stall and have a pig in traffic etc? dont get pucked etc best REAL WORLD compromise for street use (and i am a very agressive driver, just ask anyone that knows me) is close to stock with more clamping and stiffer springs...

Gaz, thanks for pointing out that danger! I added a post to my thread on diyefi.org explaining the situation with running out and gave you credit for it. Cheers.

Those two posts snuck in awfully quickly! Peak torque on the mazda motor that WAS in my ute : 2500, power 5000 Peak torque on the holset dohca will be between 5k and 6k and peak power will be between 6500 and 7500. In a random theoretical extreme case pp and pt could be at the same place, but not on real engine. I think it's pretty insulting to tell people that you shouldnt get too techy or the readers won't understand. Insulting to the readers... Give them some credit. If they wanna fuck with fast cars, they need to know some tech, or have a fat wallet. I choose the former.