fishtailfred

lol, yeah, its meant for track work i see, so both ends have drain bungs? putting a top plate on that would still be a goer i think, but only on the half with the pickup obviously. sweet that you have a good solution.

dont forget gate capacitance and its effect on impedance at higher frequencies pretty much right though. its ok. i havent used it that much, but it has powered a few parties. kinda dropped the audio hobby in favour of the turbo ute one i'll get back to that at some point when i have too many fast cars at my fingertips.

fair enough the difference is of course that a bjt has say 10ma in and a beta of 100 you get 1amp out, whereas a mosfet you send in 1mv and get 1volt out similar, but different. mosfets are fast, thats why they are used in switching circuits like that as they spend very little time between on and off dissipating power. not sure why igbts are used for ign. yeah, i built the amp myself. its good for about 250wrms standing by itself, but about 600rms with a pair of fans on the heatsink (or playing music which disipates less heat than a sinewave) and an external power supply plugged in. unfortunately the amp modules are very average indeed, but its modular so i can swap them out at some stage. i designed the boards for the protection circuits myself and layed it all out. its about 70mm high, 280 deep and 450 wide, so not huge physically, but very compact for whats inside. fred.

kinda, the way the work and behave is totally different though, and i well know what they stand for http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/fredio54/amp.jpg

the main thing is to do just what you did and go over the top of the lowest level the oil will be at when its being caned the hardest. also stops the wind whipping it up too. heres mine for inspiration if you want some : outside of it : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... sump-5.jpg inside pre top : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... fter-1.jpg inside with top : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... sump-7.jpg i guestimated that about 20mm of oil would end up floating around in the head and what have you at full noise. i used a windage tray/scraper above it too : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... 0_3715.jpg what is a dual pan setup? is there a pic of it up in there somewhere? fred.

cool starlet escorta, have you run it at the strip? i used to drive one around for a while about 6 years ago, and have wanted another ever since. i was set on slapping a blacktop in one, but they are pricey still, so maybe a silvertop or something random depending on how much work i feel like. do you have a youtube account with some videos? looks good, has right engine, wanna see it in action fred.

beautiful paint job on that just lovely. looked empire state building like in primer in the grass with no weight in it (really high ) fred.

lots of little bjts for small random stuff, fets for injector drivers and the igbt for ign driver, but they arent very robust (vb921) i prefer to use ignitors like these mitsi ones : http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... atsink.jpg as they are virtually bullet proof. the vb921s have dwell and current limitations, the mitsi ones just soldier on unless you fry them with no heatsink. also, proding around at a component thats mounted could be proding at some other connected component thats more sensitive. there are a few ics on there too. fred.

i have to agree with him on that. the rb30e has fairly modest output stock, and ok output boosted, but if you boost it, to get any decent output it will end up peaky as. if you use the twincam head, you can make more hp than the single cam turbo if done right. it will be way more controllable, and with a heavy engine in the front of a light car, you'll need that. even if you boost it, you could stick with a small turbo and low boost and make even more power and still have a more linear controllable power band. the thing with re engineering it later is that the cert will be invalid if you twincam it and it will require another $500 cert. your call though. the sohc engine will definitely make it fly even na, just if you boost it, it might be a bit tricky with so little weight. the ute is insane like that (but it is pretty extreme turbo wise) spinning the wheels at any speed 120+ in 5th in the wet and all other gears too. in the dry its suss in 1st and 2nd even with race tyres. just my thoughts on it. that other dudes one looks mean, if its anything like that it should be wicked. i'm sure you'll be happy anyway escorts are neat little cars! fred.

cheers, yes, first serious project. the vw attempts were good learning phases as was the breaking the thing from flogging it all the time and having to fix it. i just set about reading (way too much on the net) and then built the bastard! fred.

thanks man, a lot of it is pretty nice, but there are a lot of things i'd change that i did in a hurry so i could drive it before i left nz turf. its also far from finished, needs a bunch of stuff and another few months of hard slog to get it certable and usable in a track thrashed fashion. as for planning, only in my head over the last 3 or so years. my old man built our 40ft boat from his head too, its pretty good, though not perfect. i've been thinking about the swap and collecting parts to do this for a long long time. the turbo idea only came about on the 16th of january when i did this burnout in the carport : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKo0aJKhC5I i went inside all hyped up and went straight on trademe and bid on a gtr intercooler, they are good for about 500hp, so i set about finding other parts to make the same sort of figures and just pieced it together as i needed to. i had been working on the sump etc for a month before that. i guess it went from half disassembled cab n chassis with a nice chassis paint job to nearly done turbo rocket in about 5.5months. the intercooler plumbing is dodgy and needs to be changed at some point. one of the silicone couplers is a cheapy chinese one, i want to lighten the front end a bunch, put decent light bucket seats in it, and 4 or 5 points belts, it needs more injectors before i can turn up the boost more. on 17.5 psi it rips though, as evidenced in the acceleration videos : and you can hear the turbo in this one : i want it to hand evos and wrxs etc their arse thoroughly, being nearly as fast or as fast isnt enough. i want them to go WTF?? i reckon its good for a mid 13 right now, but didnt even get a chance to try it out with my gtech pro RR. just based on my software simulator that i ran all the other estimated data through. if you watch the vids carefully though, it seems slower than what the software thinks it should be to get between any two speeds, so i might be in for a not so good surprise on that. maybe its still heavier than i think it is. so, in summary, yeah, i've been thinking about it for 3 years, and working on it for 5 months (cept the rust repairs and chassis stuff) i was working 50-60 hour weeks at the same time too. just not sleeping a hell of a lot as evidenced here : http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/ ... C_2274.jpg megasquirt for the win i tell you btw, one of the two main devs on msextra is a rotor nut, so rotary support is included always if you ever wanna try it... go for it cause carbs suck.

http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/3286/bafflecn5.jpg good work on the sump, top plates are the way to go, preferably at the exact level that will be under it when oil is flying around up in the head at high revs. could it have gone any higher? or would the crank etc fowl it if you did? all those people that install trap doors in their wings are sadly mistaken unless the roof height of the wings is way excessive. engine looks great fred.

awesome kp61 with 3tc : http://www.eville140.com and vids of it and his old series 1 rx7 http://www.eville140.com/video/ hardcore carbon fibre mustang project with TT v8 : http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=660756

btw, by memory, the only fets on there at the big to220 ones, the rest are bjt. EDIT there is also an IGBT on there.

true, but better safe than sorry right. the man was asking questions that implied he didnt know toooooo much about them, so urring on the side of caution. mosfets you can kill without a meter just by not being carful about which socks you put on that morning most (cheap) meters run on a 9v and thats enough to put a fair bit of current through something like that. just being too careful

if you wanna go flash, i'd use agm type ones. piss all over all the other types for most stuff. you'd be hard pressed to make a lead acid leak even if it was an open type one. many/most of them are sealedish now anyway. the AA ones are quite good. particularly the 2113 i think, but not sure. dont have the info handy. its rated at less than it actually does! have one in my skyline and in my girls ae111. on our boat we have gel batteries, but agm is better than those.

they can handle that current across emitter to collector, but not through the gate.

the first digit is how thick it is when its cold and the second is how thick it is when its hot. that may not make sense if you consider that a straight weight oil is say a 30 when its hot AND cold. but they use additives of curled up hydrocarbons to make it stay thick at high temps and be thin at cold ones at the same time. the coils expand as they heat up and make it thicker, but because the rest is getting thinner it stays similar. the trouble is that those long chain helix hydrocarbons break down way too easily, hence keep it narrow for best performance with mineral oils. synthetics shouldnt suffer from it because they naturally have wide viscosity stability. and you are welcome i'll contribute tech, you guys contribute humour sweet deal by me!!!! fred.

in new zealand your cold grade is sweet from 0 - 20 and your hot grade from 30 - 50. the climate is good like that. if you hammer it hard, it will be hot and will thin the oil out so it pays to go thicker. if you dont hammer it a lighter weight one is probably better. if you dont go synthetic stear clear of wide ranges as they break down more quickly. if you go for a heavy weight check its performance as most are designed for (lol, seems ironic, but) old cars and are fairly poor in performance. old cars can benefit from oils that last longer and work better too. its just that the standards were low back then. eg, my amsoil 20w50 racing oil is a great oil, but the 20w50 whare house brand stuff wont be as good in any way. i run the amsoil 2050 in the skyline because i hammer it hard and it gets hot. if i didnt hammer it a 1540 mineral or 0-30 synthetic would be a good choice careful with synthetics on dirty engines, they clean out bits that you want to stay dirty and cause leaks. castrol gtx is a good ordinary 20w50 that i always used in the ute before the twincam swap. its suitable for OS engines fred

my timing men must have been on different drugs to yours! Cam ran a best of 1:58 that day. did you really do 2:06? hmmmm whats the pcd of the alfa wheels? i'll have to dig up some more snaps and vids of your car and post them here or in the other thread here : //oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=9902 what hp are the boxs known to handle? that suspension package sounds like a goer (sure you cant get custom torsions made for less?) but the itb setup could be done diy for way less. is cam on here at all with his ae85/6es ? fred.

is that als red daihatsu? its pretty good ey is that rear suspension the same design as the late model 206CC ? a mate of mine had one and i gave it a good flogging, and couldnt stand it. if its the same, doesnt it drive you nuts? or has stiffening it tamed the beast? or is it different? if you have any ms questions you are too afraid to ask on msextra.com, feel free to pm/aim/msn me about it. more than happy to help esp if it means i get to hear a vid of it with the 4age throttles on it fred.

ok, just be careful with your dwell settings and keep an eye on temperature when you are revving it hard. because they operated for only one cylinder per engine cycle (once per two crank revolutions) they will be doing twice as much work in wasted spark mode. some are ok with it, some are lighter duty and heat up. just something to be aware of. whats the lucky engine?

redline isnt the only good synthetic option. amsoil have good oils too. harder to get though, but cheaper and as good or better. series 2000 75/90 for the box and 75/140 for the hypoid diff. they may have changed the name to severegear, but its the same stuff.

you shouldnt be prodding at ics/transistors with a resistance meter at all. it pushes voltage and current out and can kill your parts. if you are following the isntructions pretty closely you'll see they say to test in blocks. other components on the board can make it seem a certain way when its not. vb921 drivers are a bit touchy. you may not need them for your ignitor built in coils anyway,just a connection to each input from the processor/led transistors. is this on a 4 cyl motor? if so, do you mean suedo wasted spark with four coils? or are the coils dual post and you just happen to have 8 of them? got a pic? someone further up said that ms2 isnt the way to go. i disagree, its way better for a bunch of reasons and has enough io to do most stuff you want. ms1e has more io, and a few features that ms2e doesnt, but ms2e has some that ms1e doesnt too. heres a good comparison : http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-Ext ... m#features cheers.