cletus

Havent heard anything, That is kind of the current situation anyway, if theres any signs of repairs or if someone has undersealed the whole car / looks like someone has tried to hide something Unfortunately sandblasting can make things worse IMO if the person doing it is a fuckwit, like the ranger i looked at today that had many bits that were missed, got blasted but not painted, or the worst part, all 4 adustable OME shocks had had a tickle up on the chrome shafts with sandblasting....

VTNZ in pukekohe is not bad for older vehicles, they have inspectors who are familiar with older vehicles There is no place now that is 'lenient' any more when it comes to re reg or compliance. Especially since the dramas that happened a few years ago with heavy vehicle certification, a lot of inspectors are scared of getting things even slightly wrong

At my previous job, for low budget customers,i wrapped insulation tape around the insulator to fix them a few times Its not a lower rpm limit in neutral? Doesnt really sound like a dead coil

So a li-ion battery if left to go flat, do they go puffy and explode? Imagine being a barry in the future trying to hoard old ev parts to restore them one day

That will definitely be the supercharger, if you take that off and send it to me I'll get rid of it for you

I doubt it, not without extra strengthening. The factory shock mount is whats taking all the load,the two other holes will do very little. Id bet it would flex the way it is That style upper arm cant be certed either

Ive had these wheels for a while, to sort of match the rear wheels for drag use, 15x3.5 they didnt fit due to the calipers . Found some adapters that i had in stock, bolted them on. Doesnt look right ,tyres are too short and wheels stick out too much

Next project 1975 lilliput caravan. Was my grandparents, they did a lot of touring around the country in it. Its been sitting for a while now. I thought it would be pretty bad but its not, it doesnt appear to have any leaks My plan was to cut off the rusty coupling and chuck a new one on, the drawbar is toast though which i was going to replace anyway Stripped a bit of stuff off so i can measure up what i need to get it mobile,then i can get it onto the hoist at work to give the undersides a bit of a tidy up I think ill just get it useable and worry about paint later

You are correct, You could cut some off and remove the springs and check what happens at full compression That would be well over the skill level of your average person to get correct though. Hence it needing cert. the problem is the rules in the modification threshold are written to suit the most common situations, and simple modifications that have a low probability of being a cockup. and in your case the vehicle probably doesn't suit the wof virm rules for mods that don't need cert

Some self clearancing things

The reason you can't modify bump stops without cert, is there are many situations where if you trim the bumpstop, something bad could happen. Shocks bottoming out, ball joints binding, etc etc The manufacturer sets the bump stop length to prevent these bad things happening It is a big problem with coilovers, people do not understand how important bumpstops are

Funny, there's a rough dereg hornet on my trademe watch list

would something at the other end of the cc scale but equally inappropriate be in the spirit of the event? ie a roadglide/goldwing or some other massive thing

Might be rocking horse poo now but what about using BFMP familia box, axles, brakes etc from memory its all bolt in to the earlier one? better brakes as well probably handle an na rotary if it dealt with a turbo 1600 (just, haha) my old boss loved lasers/323s, we wrecked/tarted up and sold heaps of them in the late 90s early 00s

Ive even mixed synthetic and non synthetic oils and nothing bad happened. The engine mixes it up real good Ironically,the thing i was most anal about using good /correct oil in, was the one that shit itself (drz400)

Yeah that was good fun. Cheers to all that attended,especially @RXFORD for the BBQ. Its a nice spot

Ready and packed See you all at 10.45 tomorrow

Its my work car in that video, lol. I used to drive around with all my work paperwork/manuals/tools in the boot,that gave it extra slam When i got the suspension done they put nolathane bumpstops in the rear,they lasted about 3 days before they split and disintegrated I put the stock foam ones in again, they have survived 80,000 km since

Kind of related Heres a video of a ranger driveshaft wobbling around

Ah right. For some reason i thought we were talking about a falcon wagon If its a hilux you should be able to lower it without any drive shaft issues hitting As nominal said, you may end up with vibration issues though. Some utes need the center bearing raised to reduce angles I would suspect that if you are not notching the chassis, it probably wont be low enough to worry about though.

I dont quite get what you mean? The driveshaft will move up and down less the closer it is to the gearbox,so for arguments sake if the diff goes up 50mm the middle of the driveshaft will go up 25mm. But You do have to keep in mind how much the pinion angle changes which affects driveshaft to tunnel clearance. Diffs move heaps on leaf springs I did this video ages ago , ba wagon had 2" blocks and the bumpstop was chooched so the driveshaft would rub under acceleration https://youtu.be/u0tODUUOE8Q

lvvta say 10mm is generally the limit for newer vehicles or custom independent suspension 20mm for older cars id think 8 mm is likely fine, and probably better than original. where the toe change occurs in the suspension travel is also important

Reminder This is happening this sunday!