cletus

If the seats are for a sedan or coupe (I assume you have a rx of some type based on those belts) and there's no roll bar then you won't need head rests

Seat belts look like they are probably fine, they usually have a tag on them stating what standard they are built to, they say they have Australian standards on them I don't think I've seen aftermarket belts that don't have standards on

Hi David I found you a fan. This is quite rare it was on a bathurst special edition valiant station wagon. They had a special transmission with second gear removed for light weight and a single barrel carb so they could do 3 whole laps without stopping for fuel. Peter Brock thought this fan was so great he signed it. Should be a good upgrade for your little toyota engine, this fan was designed for a big block 245 hemi 6 so it should cool your small engine twice as much and this plus thermostat removal should end any head gasket issues ever by running the engine at room temperature. I measured it and it will fit your engine, as a bonus getting rid of the viscous unit will give you the powerful fan noise of a much larger engine which will be impressive! Regards Clinton.

Cool. In my experience those mopar ps boxes feel yuck when the engine isnt running- theres a bit of play in the center but once the engine is running they get much nicer Also I went and saw autoblast a while ago (might be the same place Dylan is talking about) and they said $1300 ish to do mine with all the mechanicals out of it

I have a good ps pump and steering box from mine I could sell if you want I got a manual box for clearance reasons

Auto will most likely be a 904. Fine choice in automobile sir. If its a factory disc brake one I might have a bottom ball joint I ordered wrong for my plymouth

Next will be finding somewhere to put the wastegate

I had to replace my helmet last year due to a flat battery that couldn't be replaced. the one I have now, I looked for one that has replaceable batteries

I had a d21 with I *think* is the same diff and I had a lsd center put in it. Its the diff with the hat on the back. I had a caravan with the same looking diff but silly 5.2 or something ratio. Same guts as an r200 if I recall correctly

https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_02-2013_New_SB_&_Mod_Prod_LVV_definitions.pdf would need certification, and as for whether it would be modified production or scratch built, you would have to come up with a plan of what you want to build, and have a chat to a local certifier about this part; "In the case where any doubt exists as to the authenticity of a vehicle, a Category 1D LVV Certifier will inspect and confirm the exact status of the vehicle, and record this through the LVV FS010 Statement of Authenticity (see note [d] of ‘Modified Production’ definition), which will be reviewed and verified by the LVVTA office prior to commencement of the LVV certification process. "

the parts themselves might be ok, but- 50mm is a lot to lift that type of suspension though. I would recommend you undo your top shock mounts and jack the car up- make sure the strut top can come away from the body more than 50mm and figure out where things bind/run out of travel/cv joints fall out etc

At my very first nzta review ( we do a cert inspection with a reviewer present) I knocked back a 180sx for a pretty big rear main seal oil leak ( I figured it was dangerous for other road users/ motorcyclists etc ) but I was told there was no rule saying it should fail, so I shouldnt have failed it.

My experience with repair certifiers is fairly limited but Bob Kistemaker is out west and is probably the best one to deal with an older vehicle. 0212288126

^so tiny! Its like a small sleeping bag with wheels and an engine

Made some pipes. Need to get a flex joint this week then I can finish the pipe across, then make the 2 pipes fit the turbo flange, then figure out where the wastegate goes.

Got a machinery house catalog in the mail today with one of the welders you linked to, cheaper

and had a set of eagers on the tridens for a while, I ended up putting those on my ute.

then had some standard rims widened, 195/60 front and 205/60 rear, painted them grey to start with and had hubcaps, later powdercoated black and ran no hubcaps with bullet nuts

I had some 15'' wheels made for drag use, I think they were 15x7 with ET Street tyres, ran standard rims on the front

14x7 tridens, 195/60 front and 205/70 rear

then some slightly narrower tyres on the front, wheels painted black, hubcaps

its had a few wheel and tyre combos which I will barry on about originally, when I got it

Bought an alternative set of wheels. I bid on the original auction and lost, they were old crusty wheels that needed a tart up. then they ended up back on TM after being polished and painted the correct gunmetal colour, they got cheaper over a few weeks then I got them for $400 plus freight up from nelson. they are not perfect- but I got them on the car today with a couple of new rear tyres and I'm quite pleased. 205/60 front, 205/70 rear

I have both mig and tig I use my mig more, if I have fiddly stuff that I want to look pretty I use the tig, I still have a lot to learn about it though. mig is good if you just want to blaze stuff together or do rust patches on slightly questionable panels/things that are not perfect/gaps not 100% also mig seems a lot more economical on gas