cletus

unlikely i queried for a customer who wanted 2 different bonnets- one with a hole for filters/tunnel ram, and one with a reverse scoop, they said no.

Sorted, needed jumper wires to other terminals Now I know it works I'll make some neater little link bars Cheers

Hmm Tried that, it goes very slowly and sometimes goes the other way ie anticlockwise

Can someone tell me what wire goes to which terminal to make this go clockwise? Electric motor on a lathe

Yes that's fine

yes will need two loops you will need to make some legs off the crossmember to attach the loop to the chassis, or bolt it to the tray floor with doubler plates on the top of the tray floor requirements are in the CCM for dimensions, bolt sizes etc

5 LITER VEE EIGHT, THATS A GODDAMM THREE OH FIVE CHEVY ENGINE, THE ENGLISH COPIED IT FROM CHEVY AND MADE ONE THEMSELVES

new mods get checked to the rules of now old mods get a quick check to make sure they are safe and were done correctly the first time

CCM has recently been updated to allow polished checker plate

It's not clear, because the words are different to what the drawing shows- ie the words say it just has to cover the top of the tread , but the diagram suggests full width to level with the center of the hub

Wheels can poke out, tyre tread has to be covered to at least the height of the hub center It's kind of a grey area, and one thing that grinds my gears somewhat If you read the wof virm, everything requires this But a vast percentage of even standard vehicles don't comply with the wof virm to some extent

If it had no cage you would meet the requirements for lap belt only, as there is no suitable structure to mount it to If you're going to have a cage then you will have a suitable structure, so will need lap diagonal belts (definitely a good idea)

According to the rules it should be done by a wheel specialist If you were to be an outlaw and do it yourself then you would want to be very careful about how much you remove - especially if the wheel is a cheaper brand

can you get a map torch or similar on the bearing housing, give it a bit of a warm up see if that helps

Hate to be that guy... But that block looks like it is cracked? Rusty line suggests it's cracked between the core plugs

I've had a Lincoln SP170 for 20ish years (eek) it's been a great little welder, never had a problem with it

Should be a fun car. What mods have you done to the carbs to run blow through? Are they 450s ?

FYI These are the wheels my boss is doing. They have been polished but no plating yet. Centers had to be removed and get welded back in later They had to be a specific old style rim , and he had trouble finding someone to do it, as they are not perfect. otahuhu chromeplaters is going to do the plating, apparently the old guy that started the business is back running the place again It took the polisher 5.5 hours PER RIM to get them to this stage so I'd hate to think what they will owe him when they're finished

All done and back in action Pan is still quite low but at least the little bump & drain plug are not hanging down as something to get caught on things I added a drain at the back of the pan , it's only a 6mm bolt and not at the bottom but it's not like changing the trans oil is going to be a regular event, it's not that hard to drop the pan off to drain it completely Side note it takes 10l of trans fluid

Probably easier to just take it somewhere else. If he's asking for something that's not in the virm, you could make a complaint . But for the sake of $60 or whatever a wof is now , not worth the headache IMO I got marked down on a performance review for failing a car on a bad rear main leak (like a drip every second sort of bad) The guy said he understood my reasoning, I said it would be dangerous for other road users like motorcyclists, but it wasn't a fail reason in the virm so I couldn't knock it back on that