cletus

Yeah that would be ok, probably a good idea to reduce the number of plug welds in the plate on the chassis

I got one of these for free off a mate who thought the engine was chooched, just had loose rocker cover bolts Had the same roof decals and was twin sunroof as well I think. Auto too. I drove it for a year or so, was a good little car

This is probably the same starting point that it was built from, this has a gvm of 4500kg so would be classed heavy vehicle Also this one has a big block petrol engine so can you imagine how many petrols this would use. Aaaalll of them

I would say it would be a separate chassis, the dodgy ones were usually vans with mods to the van body, that looks like it was probably a cab chassis deal to start with. @Nominal sounds correct, I'd bet it would be over 3500kg so would need the handlebars swapped over, heavy vehicle cert, RUC, all that stuff Probably why it has never been complied already

I have a luggage rack for mine but it only gets fitted when I need it, also I don't usually bother carrying the spare unless I'm going somewhere far from home

Yeah depends on the car. Most things that have a vented disc on the front at least, can be prepped to pass the 5 stop test ok If it's got drums or solid discs or the brakes are tiny or the car is heavy- probably not

Just a FYI

Ute conversions can be certified but you would want to allow for at least adding some strength into it First thing would be to get it, clean it out and see what it's like Youre a brave man haha

You can fit a surprising amount of stuff in a vespa glovebox. I was going to remove mine when I first got it but it's too handy And now welcome to the rabbit hole of chasing more power

Front= theres a couple of things that would need to be done differently for cert, needs shocks, bottom arm welding would need tig& ndt Rear looks mostly ok but I wouldn't recommend a 2 link. With a 2 link, to have any side to side articulation something has to flex. Americans love doing 2 links in various things because they are easy, but virtually no OE manufacturers do them, the only one that i have come across that is common is 60s chev trucks but they have soft rubber bushes and the bars come in quite close together at the chassis end and the links can flex a bit cause they are a I beam shape. Some 4wd vehicles have a similar system (nissan patrol or safari, landcruisers etc ) but they all have big rubber bushes at the diff end for articulation Have a look at info sheet 05-2011 on the lvvta website, that has a lot of info about it

The guy there said $1950 +gst to blast, prime, and paint. Quite pricey but everyone I've asked says they do a good job, I could get it done for less than half the cost but I dont think it would be as good as I want it to be

Dropped off all the piping at HPC, ordered some stiffer shorter springs for the front, booked in at autoblast to get the undersides blasted and painted , and booked in at gt refinishers for engine bay paint. I pulled the engine out again so when the car is gone I can get things done on the sump

Where did you buy it from?

The wire is in case it falls out, the sensors do not enjoy bouncing along the road and are expensive to replace, this is something I learned the hard way

This is the setup that we use for cert emission tests

China tyres are probably better than BFG's anyway haha

Does it run the way it is? You could try it and see Most likely it will need to pass a 3 stop brake test, which is 3 stops from 100- 0kph, under 4.4 seconds each stop, in a total of 2 minutes max. I have not done a 620 with drums so I dunno how good they are. But commercials in general have brakes a bit bigger than passenger cars of the same era so it might be ok with good quality shoes and everything in good shape

Wheels look good!

These arm bushes always seem to be flogged on them too. I drove a turbo one a few weeks ago, was pretty fun.

It may also be an issue with the bottom balljoint assembly taper being a bit big, have seen some pretty average aftermarket ball joints for valiants It's not uncommon for aftermarket arms to come with washers or tapered spacers to correct taper issues. As long as the taper is the same and the nut doesnt bottom out on the end of the thread it should be ok

Welcome! I did a similar swap 14 years ago but I cant remember any specifics on wiring, other than it worked with the shifter position switch on the side of the trans not hooked up, but it did weird things when shifting manually. I wired the switch in and it was good after that. I used a generic aftermarket lever type shifter, a b&m unimatic I found www.lextreme.com handy when I did mine, i just had a look and it appears it still works

I dont think it would matter if its sized and jetted correctly, the carb doesnt care how many cylinders it is feeding, it just puts 'x' amount of fuel into the air that passes through it and the manifold delivers that mix to the cylinder

Try searching 'seat belt barrel bolt' This was common in 50s and 60s cars when lap and diagonal belts became a requirement