cletus

Cool, was going to suggest them, they do a lot of older more interesting vehicles. Hamish who owns the place is a good sort

Congrats on the new arrival! Where are you taking it for compliance?

My interpretation would be if it bolts to existing points ie the shock mounts then no cert required, but if you have to drill holes= cert

Is that the type of pump Americans get all fizzed up over for cummins engines ? https://cppdiesel.com/cpp-benched-p7100-hot-street-pump-12mm/

I realise this is pretty high levels of barrying, but these things are so handy for small parts , brackets, suspension parts, etc etc, but they definitely benefit from some tricks to make them work better Share them here 1. Vacuum is a definite must have to suck the dust out and take it outside the environment. My next mod will be a 20l container to help separate the dust before it gets into the vac, as you have to stop and clean the filter regularly 2. I put a water trap on the cabinet, this stops 90% of the water getting blown onto your blasted part . This worked much better at the cabinet end of the air hose 3. The lamp they come with sucks and any lamp you put inside gets munted from the sand quickly so I just got a $20 bunnings led work lamp and put it on the outside of the window 4. Dust sticks to the window pretty quickly so you have to stop and clean it all the time. I started to use meguiars quick detailer spray wax stuff and that stops the shit sticking to the window, I hardly have to clean it any more 5. You need a decent compressor, I got a twin cyl belt drive one that is 190lpm and it keeps up fine

Land transport rule doesn't mention a minimum height for the rear of a mudguard for single wheels, only width

I'd be happy to be incorrect on this one, but I cant find anything in the virm that says there are different requirements for trucks and cars apart from the different requirements for dual wheel vehicles The same mudguard diagram is in the motorcycle section as well @KKtrips possibly some wording that captures 4wd, lifted, or scratchbuilt vehicles that do not replicate a production vehicle might work?

I had a couple of cars in today so put cardboard on them where a flap would be required under the proposed rule

I've mentioned this in another thread but I'll put it here as well Now is your chance to have your say here https://lvvta.org.nz/documents.html#consultation on the wheels and tyres chapter of the CCM which is being updated Theres a couple of issues but the big one in my opinion, is the mudguard requirements, which will be the same as the wof requirements. The problem is nobody enforces the wof rules so theres literally thousands of vehicles that dont comply, even brand new ones. The problem is once it's in the book, a car going through cert will need mudflaps fitted to pass... I dont think it has been considered how many vehicles this will affect

Yesyesyes I used to think motard type bikes were dumb like putting semi slicks on a toyota surf I was very wrong so much fun on twisty back roads, things like big mid corner surprise bumps, which on a sport bike would probably send you into the trees, are soaked up no problem

Not just scratch built, that will be for all modified vehicles At the moment most things are covered by standards and the CCM is for more complicated mods LVVTA is changing their system to simplify things by making the standards a basic document and making the CCM the thing that everyone uses

I think it was previous to that. I was told a while ago (probably a couple of years ago) to make sure lifted 4wds had mudflaps that comply with the virm I looked at the virm and found that diagram that I posted earlier, and for the same reasons as I posted earlier (many unmodified vehicles not meeting the requirement in the virm) spoke to lvvta who was going to look into it further, I also spoke to someone at NZTA who thought the diagram had been changed incorrectly This would have been pre covid at least as the guy who I spoke to only attends meetings via skype since covid, and I spoke to him in person Just had a look and the 2021 update was cof only, cant find when wof one was changed

I dont know when exactly but the virm has been changed at some point in the past few years as that mudguard diagram used to look like this and there was no requirement for a full width mudguard apart from dual wheel vehicles Strangely it's still the same as it used to be , in the motorcycle section

Correct, although a mudflap can be considered part of a mudguard according to the definition in the virm https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/tyres,-wheels-and-hubs/mudguards

That diagram is from the wof virm. So what every car on the road should comply with. It looks like the CCM requirements are being updated to match the wof ones

I looked again and theres a side note on the previous page in a different section so that might cover it I guess if it is acceptable to use tapered wheel nuts to center the wheel instead of the center spigot then that solves half of the issue Not sure where that leaves wheels with shank nuts though, like tridens, hotwires, cragars, etc. I guess they would need centering rings made to suit and attached somehow

I would encourage everyone to have a look at this and have your say. There are two significant changes which IMO will have an impact on a lot of people The first thing is, basically all wheels having to be hub centric The second is mudguard coverage, the CCM appears to have been updated to bring it inline with the wof VIRM requirements as they are now Problem is, this is currently either largely ignored, or nobody knows about it, as a lot of even factory vehicles dont comply and could mean that a car being certified may need mudflaps added, the way I interpret the wording

Road king would be the opposite of small bike but probably a bigger challenge haha

Ironically my vespa is much more comfortable on long trips than DRZ , I can only do about 150km before my bum hurts

/or just drill and lock wire the bolt to one of the threaded holes /a big nordloc washer It must be getting some really good harmonic wiggles to make that come loose

I designed a device for you that bolts on to your pulley to stop it falling off and also supplied a scientific graph as I know how much you love them

If you dont need to do any/minimal work to get it to pass re reg then it wont matter if you get it legal in standard form first If however, you need to do work to the car, then in my opinion it's better to just do everything once how you want it, get cert, then register it For example if you have to do ball joints , then you get it registered, and then pull it apart to lower it, you will be doubling up on labour working on the same area, paying for 2x wheel alignments etc If you are modifying it first; 1. Get vtnz or vinz to put a vin number on it but NOT do the re reg inspection. While it's there, if it's got any rust or accident damage, ask them nicely to have a look and see if it will need a repair cert 2. Do mods, get lvv cert, repair cert if you have to 3. Once you have that sorted, take it for its proper re reg inspection. 4. Get wof sticker, rego, do a skid. The reason for doing it that way, is you only get 28 days to fix things for re reg inspection and it's usually not possible to get everything (lvv cert inspection, repairs, recheck, repair cert if it needs it) done in that time frame, so you end up paying twice, then get a different inspector, and the possibility of a different list, etc

That's pretty consistent with my experience with driving modified cars on a daily basis , in 15 years I've been pulled over 3 times (and probably not at all in the last 8 years) and never had a ticket There has been numerous occasions where I've thought I was getting pulled over for sure but nope. Even driving past cops with pink stickers on the screen

I've found the best method as per @sheepers said once, is taking your time with a hammer and just tapping it up slowly