cletus

Picked up from autoblast this morning and dropped off for engine bay paint. Looks ok apart from they painted the black parts underneath then primed the engine bay so theres primer overspray on the inner guards and in the tunnel. Which is a bummer as that was the whole reason for taking it to them because I wanted it done nicely. I mentioned it and the guy came out with a rattlecan of black paint and some rubberised underseal to throw on before the towie arrived, which I didnt want on it I didn't want to leave it there for them to fix cause I'd already had to postpone the towie and the booking at the panel shop a week, because it wasn't ready last weekend as per the booking I made 6 weeks ago. So I'll get the painter to fix it, should just need a quick blow over with some more black after hes done the green parts And the hoodlining is ripped for some reason now. Bah. Anyway, I pulled the sump off to change the oil pump and pickup back to a stock one instead of a high volume pump. Its had a couple of times in the past where it lost pressure after a prolonged period of high rpm. I was concerned it was emptying the sump faster than it could drain back, and someone i talked to about it said that on a SB mopar, a stock pickup with a high volume pump can cause cavitation issues. Someone else said a high volume pump is unnecessary anyway as once it gets to x amount of pressure the relief valve bypasses so then the oil just gets whizzed around the pump doing nothing I'll try a stock pump and see how it goes, and also add some baffles, I got a new pan cause the old one has had a few bumps and an oil drain on the wrong side now I got brave and popped a couple of bearing caps off and they looked fine

Is it a spacer? Or an adapter to fit a mazda shaft onto the hunter diff via changing the pcd? It's not something that is covered by the standard, the wording sort of suggests that you wouldn't be able to do it, as technically you are lengthening the shaft via a spacer, but the wording is intended to prevent someone cutting and joining a shaft incorrectly In my opinion if it's made out of a suitable material and is not too thick and has the right bolts with lock washers etc and it spigots into the driveshaft and pinion flange then it would be safe, it's the same as a wheel spacer or adapter You might want to check with @KKtrips

This stuff is the automotive equivalent to alison holst sausage rolls, keep making the packaging forever

Good job there Peter. It must be satisfying knowing you can big block around the place for much less cost than before. Are you going to do some spark related trickery like with the vg?

Vespa. A while ago I got a aliexpress knock off carb for it which was a little bit bigger It had some casting flash and stuff like that that wasn't very good The base wasn't flat The throttle slide was sticky I fixed all that stuff and took a punt on the jet it had in it and it went ok, moved the power up the rev range enough to notice, it went better However it had issues with what I thought was the throttle sticking and pulling lots of lean sounding revs I was trying to find where the problem was, it wasn't the throttle, it was getting airflow from somewhere though, and it managed to select first gear by itself and fuck off into my toolbox, broke the brake lever off and knocked the steering out of alignment All fixed now , spare parts bike to the rescue,and I put the original carb back on. Stupid china.

Matt from tin tricks did some more work for me on the inner guards and firewall so it looks much better . Today it got dropped off at autoblast for underneath and the engine bay to get blasted, primed and underneath painted with 2k epoxy

There are allowances for old cars if you cant get the anchorages in the allowable area, as generally it's still safer to have a seatbelt in the wrong area than not have one at all

Pretty tricky in a EH from memory, I think the pillar is too far forward or too small ? I'd have to have a look you might have to put it below the window

Have had varying reports of owners liking and not liking air bag helper springs. Last guy I dealt with ended up taking them out and getting uprated leafs put in instead When you have a bag taking the load and the spring not doing much the axle can get a bit "floppy" as the leafs are separated they dont control axle rotation as well Also if its COF I dunno what the rules are or what wof cof rules are like over there but usually air helper springs need LVV cert I'd probably fix the springs if it was me

Would really depend on what sort of car/subframe/ area of the body you are talking, but if it's only a single layer panel like a floor or firewall section then the body would be better to modify.

Znoelli.co.nz are the only ones that have been consistently good, they are made in nz

Correct. 30mm max for adaptors Dont buy cheap ones

Do you mean thread the chassis? Or the bit in the picture? If you mean the chassis then yes you could if it was thick enough and you use the right size bolts and lock washers etc

Should be ok , theres only one place in nz that can re web belts legally at the moment, I think there was a link a couple of pages ago

I've got a book which is all photographs from the 50s, mostly of the aftermath of car crashes Really makes you realise how important seat belts, and steering columns that dont come out and stab you, are

100mm is the cutoff point when something must have a cert, you can cert something lower than that but a lot of different factors come into it, generally exhaust is not counted in the 100mm deal , just structural parts like chassis and crossmembers etc

Yes yes yes! Good work.

Nope just has to be fit for purpose, done properly etc

I did a colorado a while ago with a fairly big lift, first it had upper ball joint spacers, I put a gopro on the top arm and jammed the brakes on a few times, you could clearly see the arm flexing due to the increased leverage It then got some aftermarket arms but they had some issue with cast or forged bits being welded so they couldnt be certified Then the arms got the spacers put back on but had substantial bracing added, they still flexed slightly but it was similar to a stock one I tested so they were deemed ok The shocks had to be lowered to the bottom of their adjustment to get enough droop travel as well Lifted IFS things are a pain in the balls, everyone who does these mods wants their ute lifted as much as possible, and have often spent a lot of money to get stupid angles on suspension arms, no droop travel, cv boots that flog out every 5k, and are usually very reluctant to fix them (lower it back to a height where things work)

I'd be careful what you purchase from them, they sell a lot of parts that certifiers have been told not to certify

Nah clutch pedal is a free for all, no requirements apart from do things in a tradesman like manner

Looks ok from what I can see