cletus

Notes 3 and 4 in the box say they have to be assessed to CCM spec if they are custom made or not identifiable Here is the CCM requirements

It gets very very difficult when you cant prove who made them, to the point where I bought a new set of spindles that had a brand name (belltech) cast into them to replace some other ones I already had (probably chassistech but I couldnt prove it 100%) They are a good way of lowering a vehicle if they have been designed correctly and you dont mind doing the supporting modifications that often go with them This is what the standard says

Yep as long as its purpose designed automotive fuel hose Only applies/applied to vehicles with a significant power increase over oe or a modified drive shaft

Cert check sheet for fuel hoses and pipes

Fuel line- as long as its actual fuel line that will be fine, try and find good quality hose as it seems there is varying levels of quality available and some go hard and crack/perish quickly which is an extra pain when the whole fuel line is rubber As for mounting in the tunnel there is a requirement for making sure a failed drive shaft rotating in a driveshaft loop cannot contact a fuel or brake line, this appears to have been relaxed from what it used to be, you had to fit a rear loop as well when running fuel or brake lines in the tunnel This requirement has always puzzled me, as you cant protect the whole fuel or brake line from a broken shaft, as it depends where the shaft breaks I recommend running the fuel or brake lines away from the tunnel if possible for this reason

Znoelli.co.nz can custom make spacers to your measurements They are in Auckland though

I have no recommendations, but my, what a lovely motor vehicle you have

Lockdown is good for small jobs Made the exhaust come out the side Then re made the mount because I fucked it up and it was too low Blast and painted the wipers and fixed the flaky paint on the mirror, couldnt pull them apart because the screws were loose and also siezed so ordered some smaller mirrors off rockauto Also being in lockdown means looking at things that would be nice to change so another rock auto order turned up today, thermostat, tail gate straps, new door handles, and some new headlights . The only thing I actually needed was one tailgate strap, ha.

Not a dumb question at all It's a different situation when its scratch built vs modified production reg on hold vs dead reg modified production and it can be confusing In your case, best to check with your certifier, i think it would be a good idea to show him before you put liner on or at least take heaps of photos, especially if there are mods in that area Its slightly different to a repair certifier who definitely would need to see it before paint or underseal , which is what you have probably read about. Because your vehicle is "new" there is no requirement for a repair cert Being scratch built there should be no problem removing the tag off the firewall as that wont be the vehicles identifier . Leave the chassis number on the chassis though, dont grind it off. Keep the reg/s on hold until the project is done and on the road, and having paperwork etc to prove you own both donors makes it clear that nothing's shady

Nah I put the hole in the side of the cap so you couldnt see it If your cap doesnt have sides it would look shitty though. What about one of those neodymium magnets? I wonder if one of those would remove them

For the hook? I used a coat hanger wire from memory, small hook one end and a finger sized loop on the other

This x 100. It's great to see it progressing, and so quickly

I did see a budget turbo setup in nz on a big block Chrysler, where they modified a vac advance unit on the distributor to work backwards somehow, so it retarded timing under boost , might be something to look into That's a good idea, when the fuel level got low in mine the fuel would start getting hot, especially driving slow in summer, from doing heaps of laps from the tank to the engine bay and back

I had the same problem with widened steel wheels and hubcaps, I ended up drilling a small hole in the side of the cap and made a wire hook that went in the hole to pull the cap off

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.motortrend.com/how-to/build-blow-carb-less-50/amp Another article on carb mods

I dont mean to dump shit on your ideas, and I may be wrong But I think you may run into issues using a big carb with your intake manifold design and boost ie having a large 4 barrel carb with a small opening underneath it, when boost/high air flow starts happening, if theres a restriction underneath the carb then that may upset the venturi effect? If you are after the look, and not so much performance, and no intercooler, have you considered a suck through system? Would be a lot simpler as you dont have to do as much to the carb, the big headache is the turbo needs a special seal to deal with vacuum

A turbo off a xr6 might be a good option then you dont have to dick around with an external gate

When I originally built the blow thru setup on my valiant I converted a 650dp holley to blow through using this guide https://www.hangar18fabrication.com/blowthru.html Currently I have a modified demon 650 which has some external hoses to make the power valve work better I'd be very surprised if you can use the parts from a 750dp to convert a 600vs , they are quite different carbs I used a china m+h wastegate from sta parts which worked fine, I pulled it off once to change springs and the nut had come off the top of the valve but it still worked fine, I loctited it and never had another problem Fuel pump was a Bosch 044 You need a pump that can do carb pressure plus however much boost you run so that means you cant use a low pressure pump I use a aeromotive rising rate fuel press reg If you are starting with an engine that has efi factory, I think it would be cheaper, easier and work way better to mod the efi system to work with a turbo. I dont think a blow through system is cheaper to build really

Might be a bit on the small side diameter wise for an engine mount

Could run a hose from the fitting on the oil filler tube to the air filter? Rotaries are a bit different as they dont have much blow by compared to a piston engine

I think I used isopropyl alcohol for the black plastic and autosol on the shiny part

I think if its enclosed, that's good enough. I've passed quite a few cars with that setup

Had a bit of a cockup When I pulled the motor out of the white car and stored it, I put a rag in the dizzy hole to stop shit getting in there Being so long ago, I forgot how big it was I also forgot to remove it when I set the rockers It appears the oil pump drive went om nom nom on the rag . It was quite hard to get out and it was a bit chewed When I got it out there was one bit missing out of the rag that I could not find . I mucked around for ages with the vacuum down the dizzy hole and got a bit of fluff out I deemed getting the rag out to be an essential service so went to work and got my snake camera and grabby thing, found the offending bit of rag hiding in the sump next to the oil pump and did a doctor spec cottonectomy Phew

Yes diff drop would need cert