cletus

Sprint RE for the engine rebuild?

Thanks! The air coming out the back of the rad is quite warm so I think it is working, you can feel when the thermostat opens , the wind in the engine bay gets warm all of a sudden One thing I found interesting when I was mucking around with it on Sunday, is how warm the turbo side of the intercooler gets even at idle, I guess the intake side gets hot because it's attached to the exhaust and that just heat soaks everything. The other side is cold. So the fan must be working sort of well, but that won't be helping the coolant temp issue if there's warm air coming out the back of the intercooler and through the radiator I definitely think a copper/brass rad would be better but I don't know who would be able to make one these days and it would probably cost a million dollars

Looks real good at that height, much better! One thing to look out for on mustangs/falcons with that type of front suspension, aftermarket upper ball joints often dont have as much travel as the original ones and the ball joint pin fouls the body of the ball joint at full/near full compression. In extreme cases this can snap the pin off This is from a 68 I looked at a while back, you can see the dent where the pin has been hitting the body and made a dent

Top work. I especially like the attention to detail underneath, so clean

Eeeeeh...... bit of a grey area. If done neatly and there's a boot over it, i doubt anybody would notice But technically yes it would

Depends what you want, if you get coilovers, will need cert, and they have to be done a specific way If you don't want to muck around with coilovers , someone like Autolign could whip the tops off and convert them to a replaceable insert I would bet

Yeah it had a mystery pulley combo to fit the alternator on the wrong side That was yesterday's job, to change the lower pulley for a bigger one so now it has a slightly overdriven fan/water pump pulley. Stock 318 has same size crank and w/p pulleys

exactly the same engine setup (apart from the turbo being on the other side) as when it was in the vg, except the vg is about 3" longer in the front, so had room for a big decent quality electric fan, and room for hot air to escape It was always a bit borderline though, when I pulled the turbo stuff out of that car and put the current motor in it, I left the radiator and fan the same, it never has cooling issues now. So I'm pretty sure it's the intercooler that is cocking things over I haven't compared bonnet open vs shut times but it still gets hot either way

so I can keep track of what I've done: Things that did not work or made negligible differences 10" elec fansx2 Plastic flexalite fan 245 fan no shroud 245 fan with shroud 318 fan with shroud (probably most successful fan so far) Derale 6 blade stainless flex fan 180deg thermostat 160deg thermostat No thermostat Restrict flow through hoses Seal edges of fan shroud Make fan shroud 360deg Heat reflective stuff on rad tank, bottom of shroud Heat shield exhaust from bottom rad tank Bigger bottom pulley to speed up fan and pump Im getting tired of working on it tbh. Only options left are- auxilary radiator and fan mounted somewhere . Probably under left front guard. I think this will be the most practical /cost effective option to try Or Remove intercooler so it doesn't block rad and allows a fan on the front . I want to have/need some sort of intercooler though, so would need to redo piping and buy intercooler and heat exchanger for water to air ($$) or buy water meth system (also $$)

I don't, I was wondering if an oil cooler with a fan would work

There is room, but it would just end up blocking a different part of the radiator, unfortunately

OK V8 fan and sealing around the edges of the shrouds made it better Good enough that I drove it in total over 100 miles over a couple of days and it was pretty good, doesnt go over 180, at open road speed it's mint Today I made a heat shield thing between the exhaust and radiator Still gets hot and boils at idle though. So I'm pretty sure air flow is the problem So next will be try it minus the intercooler, I'm picking that will make the radiator work better, plus then there's space for a big electric fan on the front That will mean I'll have to redo the piping and swap the rad hose to the other side of the top tank. Dumb. Anyway, have some pics.

Like a 3L powered manual hiace that's done 470,000km? BrrrmmmMMM OONNNGG brrrrmmMMM OONNGGG

It does sound like it's misfiring/not running on all cylinders when it's cranking does it sound like compressions are even? Ie does it go kerururururururu brmmmm Or kerururirurururiruru blub blub blub

Thanks! Yeah timing is in the ballpark of where it should be, 14deg at idle I'll get it dyno tuned at some point but I'm pretty sure it's about right

Oof. That looks sweet.

Yes possibly. I hate touching that stuff though I've put some heat protective stuff on the bottom tank, I'll see if that makes any difference

I've got a rear variable muffler/s off a clubsport or something if you want one to cut up or otherwise muck around with @Roman They have a vacuum operated flap in one of the tailpipes, my interpretation of the rules is as long as it's not controllable from inside the car its OK, I was going to make a muffler that was straight thru under boost but went through a quiet bit under vacuum but I cbf and bought a normal muffler instead

Yeah I'd wondered about that, I checked temps at both sides and they were within a degree , although after a tech tip from sheepers on infrared thermometers I'm going to re check it

Under maximum jandal it squats more than the big bum girls in the fembot thread, and despite having about 80mm of clearance at ride height, the driveshaft would rub on the back of the tunnel which was not ideal so I made a pinion snubber bracket, it needed a reasonable amount of offset to make contact in the middle of the bit of floor that is designed for such activities Now it can have full power applied in the forward direction which results in rapid transitions from one area to the next which is most satisfactory Did more mucking around with the overheating issue as well. Tried restricting water flow, it didn't make any noticeable difference Checked temps of top vs bottom tanks, I'm not sure how accurate the temp gun is or how much of an area it measures but it seemed accurate ish on everything except the radiator, ie it said the top tank was 28deg and I couldn't hold my hand on it It did suggest that the bottom tank was very hot at the same time, over 100deg, which is next to the exhaust , so maybe air temp affects the reading? Coolant temp was less than this at the time. Next plan is the V8 spec fan, improve sealing around the shrouding, and something to keep exhaust heat away from the radiator

In the time I was doing exhaust certs, I only ever had 2 ported rotaries pass with a fully legit exhaust (ie no silencer bung things or restrictor plates) and one of them was all adrenalin r mufflers , 4 resonators and a big one at the back I've got one on my green car and it seems to work really well for a single 3.5"

Thats this weekends plan, I got a infrared thermometer so I can check temps of various things. Rad does get hot enough that you don't want to touch it though

Nah no water cooling on that turbo. I keep meaning to but forgetting to buy a thermometer, would be handy for work as well

Yeah the exhaust is quite close, that's a good point, would be easy to try a heat shield setup

Yes, 14deg initial 32 all in from memory I had it slightly more than that but it had a bit of a rattle at WOT once