cletus

This is what I meant in the other thread - if you run a car noisy as shit then don't be surprised if you get into trouble. Run whatever system you like so long as its not tooo noisy and exits outside the car behind the rearmost opening windows and you shouldn't have much problems. rule basically says the exhaust system cannot be fiddled about with in any way without the use of hand tools. the exception to this is, i have been told by our tech guy in wellington, those plug in silencers for fart cannon mufflers have to be tack welded or riveted in place because of the fact that they will probably be removed 28 seconds after the cert sticker is on. With supertrapp mufflers or any exhaust with additional restrictors, dump pipes etc, when i do an exhaust noise cert, it all gets noted on the certificate so the exhaust only complies when it remains as tested. A lot of it depends on the driver and car as well........ i dont think ive ever had to do a noise cert on a green stickered V8 commode or falcon...... its always skylines, subarus, hondas, the usual "boy racer" type cars that get stung for noise. and its usually younger people as well its surprising how many parents i get ringing me to sort out thier kids cars.

yeah its funny how some people spend $84785156645 on engine wheels suspension body etc and leave the original anchors on it one of the best things i did to my last project was put skyline 4 pot calipers and 280mm discs on it. not a flash setup by any means but cheap, easy to do and never had to worry about stopping.

yes would need a cert, and to pass cert would require a cat. if the car+ engine had one originally.

It's a talk to the cert guy question - my flatmates cruiser with the LS2 has factory cruiser brakes and it wasn't an issue. Although they probably treat 4x4's a little different. That said, there would have been a factory turbo 910 Im sure - whether it was CA18det or Z18ET or whatever. if your brakes are at least as good as that it should probably be ok. yea they do but they come out with 130hp in turbo form (z18et) , if a remember correctly , so 260 is a bit of a jump haha . might have to ask cert dude down here righto there isnt a requirement to upgrade brakes, but it must pass the brake fade test. in your case with that much increase in power, it would have to do 5 100-0kph stops under 4.4 sec in a total time of 3 minutes. in my experience, if you havnt increased the weight or rim size a lot, use the best pads you can afford, discs in good condition and fresh brake fluid, most japanese cars can pass the test with the standard brakes.

Adaptors are easy- max 27 mm, must be located by either tapered seat wheel nuts, or locate on the hub spigot. properly made out of suitable materials etc etc. Spacers (slip-on type) are trickier, usually have to be custom made. max 20mm Must be single stud pattern. ie not those multi fit 4/5 stud slotted hole ones surfaces must be parallel and flat. no holes other than the holes for the wheel studs and locating bolt wheel must be supported by hub spigot not wheelstuds spacer must be attached to the hub or wheel wheelstuds still have to be long enough made from suitable material etc

yep 27mm max. have seen a few sets of 30mm ones around. sometimes if theres enough meat in them they can be machined down to 27mm saw some monster ones on a car ex japan that were probably 80mm ALL spacers or adapters need cert.

Material would have to be "fit for purpose" i dont think there is a specific requirement for any particular grade. Will check the bible tomorrow.

yes,sort of. wheel adaptors (bolt on to hub type with another set of studs in adaptor to secure wheel) are 27 max, wheel spacers (slip on type, original studs secure wheel) max is 20mm.

the more info you can supply, the better. sometimes its hard to tell if its had an engine swap (needs emission test and cat etc) or if its had a turbo put on the original engine (mod oe engine doesnt need a cat or emission test.) This can sometimes work in your favour. not 100% sure on the recheck issue then needing cats after may 1....... will need to find out about that one.

Me to, thanks heaps man! no worries Back on 5 day weeks this year no no more work there...... still pop in to see Mr Darlington now and then though i did a cert on a crown with a NA 2JZ a while back, was quite a cool car, drove nice.

if this is your rx7 you are talking about and its still a 13b and it uses stock mounts then you wont have to do anything. aftermarket cats are acceptable if you have done an engine swap, you wont have to run an air pump. Also the emissions test, if required, is not a big deal........ its only an air fuel ratio check with a wideband meter its not checking HCs or any of that stuff so if the car is tuned properly its not a problem.

Yes. If your car originally had a cat converter (which almost ALL Japanese import cars since the late 70s/early 80s did), and you require a cert then you will technically need to re-fit a suitable cat converter. However, until then, you don't need a cat converter to pass a WOF check. Seems silly I know. NO. all this emission stuff (at the moment anyway) only applies to vehicles with an engine swap. So if you have your original engine that is modified you dont have to worry about cats or emission tests.

was working backwards to your one then it pops up again lol basic rule of thumb is cant be weaker/less safe than original. eg, any strengthening ribs or braces should be duplicated or refitted, should use similar thickness materials etc........its a bit hard to describe how to do it over the internets. With more involved modifications like this its best to get your local certifier involved early on so they can tell you what they want you to do, as a lot of this sort of stuff can vary a bit depending on the certifier. as for the cat, requirements are on page 7 of this http://lvvta.org.nz/stdExhaustGasEmissions.pdf

all over auckland. Cert inspection has to be done at an "approved site" basically anywhere that does wofs. i have 2 shops i do most of my work at, one in takanini and one in kelston. Can come to you if you want to do it at your local garage/workshop if they are happy for us to use thier hoist etc...

Ok so in saying that, my 1982 Toyota Mark 2 with a 2jzgte wont need a CAT because my car never had 1 with the orginal engine? if your car wasnt originally fitted with a cat, no. You sure it wasnt? i thought JDM cars would have had them then...... nz spec wouldnt, nobody cared about the dolphins and polar bears then.....

if you used all parts from a manual car and it all fits as per factory then you shouldnt need a cert for a gearbox swap.

Up to you......... Officially speaking, it should be re certified and really the plate should have "custom ladder bar/4 bar rear suspension" on it if that has changed from what it was originally. quite often the plate doesnt have everything on it due to lack of room but it should have major changes like suspension configuration on it

nope needs re cert the chassis number wont match up because if its a re reg it will have a new 17 digit 7A8123456789 type chassis number instead of the old one

dont really know yet havn`t had to deal with it so far.........but i would think a pic of the original exhaust, and the fact yours is nz new (correct?) should be enough

yes would need cert for changing to DOHC head. what sort of car is it? if you can prove it then you shouldnt need one. as of may 1 any car being certed for an engine swap has to have a cat fitted IF the engine being fitted AND the car originally had one. IE r32 skyline with RB26= needs cat. r32 skyline with 265 chrysler 6 cyl= no cat. valiant charger with RB26= no cat. theres a few grey areas that i will need to find out about- theres a lot of cars of the same model that may or may not have had cats fitted from factory no if it falls within the less than 20% increase then it wont need cert. heres another handy thing to look at it tells you what you can do that doesnt need cert. its dated april 04 but i dont think much would have changed http://lvvta.org.nz/CertThresholdScheduleApril04V3.pdf

would probably be a scratchbuilt. and what a lovely motorcar it would be.

yes that will need a cert, its no worries to fit them yourself, the main thing is to get them in the right place. Probably a good idea to go see your local certifier and get them to show you where to put them. The actual fitting of the belt is easy, you can buy `seatbelt doubler plates` they are basically one plate above and one below the floor, sandwiched together and riveted, then the belt bolts to that. there are a few other things like using the correct rivets, aligning the plates correctly etc, all that is in here http://lvvta.org.nz/stdSeatbeltAnchorages.pdf

sounds like one of those stories you`d hear around a campfire from someone with a torch under thier chin.......... we are lucky to have a system that allows us to modify vehicles in this country.... i know sometimes it seems the rules can make modifying a car tough, but we can do pretty much anything to a vehicle, if its safe and meets the regulations. it came pretty close to not being able to do anything to a car or at least making it very difficult/expensive in the early 90`s

yep as runamuck said those are declarations, that say the vehicle was modified before the cert rules came about at the start of the 90`s. they didnt actually have to meet any regulations as far as i know, so some of them are a bit dodgy. there was another cert that was on laminated paper, for minor mods......it used to be that you had to get a cert for just a set of lowering springs, my boss used to do them at the workshop where i did my apprenticeship, i think they were about $90 for those.

yep thats possible.....the things which will apply to this mod would be external projections http://lvvta.org.nz/stdExternalProjections.pdf things like the bonnet edge not being sharp/having a proper folded edge, oil cooler having radised edges etc..... to prevent the vehicle acting like a cheese grater on a pedestrian who is too busy texting or fiddling with thier ipod. also as you mentioned lighting, easiest way to check on that would be go to your friendly wof man, and ask to have a look in the WOF VIRM, that had diagrams with angles that the lights must be visible from. or look in here http://lvvta.org.nz/stdLightingStandard.pdf the wof manual is probably a bit easier to read.