cletus

Don't forget, oldschooldotcodotenzed drag day is in December

Oil pickups are pretty cheap on rockauto,, last time I had the pants off my engine I fitted a new one on another occasion I unfolded the edge to remove the screen and clean out the pickup , then made a new mesh out of a kitchen siv and re folded the edge over

Yes, have a look at the fuel system chapter in the CCM, you can download it for free now Main thing is it has to be behind the front axle centerline if it's in the front of the car

I assume you have taken the center nut off and the puller is pulling the axle flange , and the middle part of the puller is pulling against the end of the axle shaft? Looks like it's on a very shallow taper so yeah I imagine that would be a prick to get off Lots of heat on the axle flange and the bit on the taper would be my suggestion

I think it would be less bad than this situation , that lvvta said was OK At least yours can be checked through the vent hole visually

Ha yep that's the one, grandad not uncle though I took this pic today to post in this thread

Nice work!

I read the threshold, and the way I read it, if a tip tray was bolted to all factory mounting points it wouldn't need cert. If you are re certing for your engine swap then it would be best if you can get it all covered at once Grey area. The mod itself as above would be below threshold , but, if it was converted to a tipper then it wouldn't match the cert, so you may have issues at wof time

If you want to make them look neater - I remove the plastic insulation bit, crimp them, then put heat shrink on instead to insulate it

Yes, with conditions Brake lines have to be able to be inspected at wofs so you would need to have no carpet or make a flap in the carpet for inspections. Unless the brake pipe is inside the car factory then that doesn't apply Fuel lines can be in cabin , can't have any joins inside cabin though

50% increase over oe There's usually somewhere they can go, up against the sill etc

See edited quote In the whole time I've been doing certs I've only done a couple of cars where the owner has fitted a rear loop , it's easier and much better in my opinion to move the pipes, if a car has enough extra power to fit into that requirement then it usually has a fuel system upgrade anyway so needs extra clamps and a new pipe made A rear loop is also difficult to get right as it has to allow for full suspension travel and pinion angle change so it has to be a big oval shape. Often on a lowered car driveshaft clearance to the tunnel is borderline especially with a bigger than stock shaft so adding a loop that will stop the shaft hitting the pipes can make clearance challenging And it won't help if the shaft fails in any other way than u joint failure. If it lets go in the middle then it will still take out the lines. At least if the lines are moved away that's one less thing to get damaged

Both total length and spring platform height adjustments are important. The height that the bump stop limits the travel is something that many people overlook or ignore I've always found it a bit odd that MCA is so anal about not adjusting the base height, when the setting required can be so different depending on what wheel and tyre combo, suspension design/type. I'm guessing it's them trying to stop people who have no idea what they are doing from fucking things up I've had a couple of cars set up as per their instructions come in for cert that had basically no travel because the owner had adjusted the spring seat down , it didn't rub sure, but it also had about 10 mm of bump travel. One was hard work because the owner didn't want to change anything "because mca had set it up and they are experts and know everything" A lot of common aftermarket adjustable shocks don't have enough travel to be messing around with spring platform heights much at all

https://flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/blogs/cooling-resources/doesnt-coolant-need-more-time-in-the-radiator-to-cool I've recently been through all the same stuff as you, tried several different thermostats and none at all, and have tried both ends of the spectrum as far as restricted flow and max flow. I thought the above article was interesting For what it's worth, in my situation, the best combo was the maximum flow option, but id be the first to admit it's not ideal and the cooling system is borderline at best

According to the wof manual The tyre TREAD must be covered to at least the middle of the wheel height ie the centerline of the hub However in real life this often does not happen and nobody enforces it There are literally thousands of cars around that don't meet this rule Cert rules are slightly different

If it's registered in nz prior to 2010, no cat required If it's post 2010 it gets complicated

Front shocks out again to swap to a 14kg spring instead of 10. I wasn't happy with how much coil clearance it had

Yes, but thickness usually needs to be greater

Congrats on new shed too, looks like a good size

A big angle on a driveshaft u joint and a grease nipple binding up?

Sweet! Is there much difference between SA spec Fairmonts and the NZ/AU ones? Did they get regular falcons there? I know a guy who imported a GT from SA, he said it was basically the same but was called a Fairmont GT instead of a Falcon

If you put it in neutral and let the clutch out, anything happen?

I wouldn't know Bart, I'm a grown up and would never do anything like that