cletus

I think if the caliper doesn't have any recesses in the bore on the piston side, where that extra bit is on the back side, then you could machine it neatly for the hose to locate into. You would want to make sure the hose is going to be in the right orientation Otherwise if you think you might need to adjust hose position, probably better to get a hose end fitting that's rounded

Looking at your lifter situation If they don't work or cause problems, I wonder if it would be easy to make some adjustable solid ones that just plop in the holes with an adjuster/pivot/jam nut at the top

This is a nice spot

Copy paste from a tech article on V8 lifters, I assume a OHC engine would work on similar principles Hydraulic lifters eliminate the clatter and the need for periodic adjustments by maintaining zero clearance when the engine is running. They do this by using oil pressure against a spring-loaded plunger inside the lifter body. Oil fills the cavity under the plunger when the valve is closed. This pushes the plunger up to take the slack out of the valvetrain and hold it tight. A one-way check valve inside the lifter holds the pressure inside the lifter as the valve opens. Since oil is incompressible, the oil trapped under the plunger prevents the plunger from compressing and the lifter act like a solid lifter to push the valve open. Hydraulic lifters are also kinder on valvetrain components than solid lifters because zero valve lash reduces the hammering effect that occurs when the valves slam shut at higher engine speeds. There’s no air gap to fill so the valve simply follows the cam lobe as it closes for a more gentle landing. This also reduces noise and helps extend the life of the valvetrain components. Under normal driving conditions, there’s no danger of the valves being pushed off their seats or not fully closing when they seat because the valve springs exert more pressure on the valvetrain than oil pressure inside the lifters. But at high engine speeds (say over 6,000 to 6,500 RPM), hydraulic lifters experience some limitations. At high speed, hydraulic lifters may “pump up” and hold the valves open causing the valves to float. This can happen if the valve springs are not strong enough to maintain normal valve control, and the lifters try to take up the slack that really isn’t there. This overextends the plunger and prevents the valve from closing all the way. The same thing can happen if the oil inside the lifter does not bleed down quickly enough between cycles to maintain normal valve lash. Hydraulic lifters can also “pump down” or collapse” at high RPM if they are leaking too much oil pressure internally due to sloppy assembly tolerances. This creates too much lash in the valvetrain, which results in noise and loss of power. Hydraulic lifters are precision fit assemblies. The plunger is closely matched to the housing to provide minimal clearance so the leakdown rate is not too great or too small. That’s why you should never intermix the internal parts when you are cleaning and rebuilding a set of hydraulic lifters. Do each lifter individually so the original assembly tolerances are maintained. One of the key differences between stock production hydraulic lifters and aftermarket performance lifters is that the latter usually have tighter internal tolerances for better oil control. Many performance hydraulic lifters also have better valving that allows them to handle more RPMs than their stock counterparts. A good set of aftermarket performance hydraulic lifters will typically allow an engine to rev 1,000 RPM higher than with stock hydraulic lifters. Some can handle even more RPMs. Even so, most hydraulic lifters can’t match the performance and reliability of solid lifters over 8,000 RPM. That’s why high revving engines in NASCAR, drag cars and circle track cars still use solid lifters. Hydraulic Adjustments Hydraulic lifters still need to be adjusted when they are initially installed so the plunger will operate in its mid-range of travel. If the plunger bottoms out, it may prevent the valve from closing causing a rough running engine and possible valve-to-piston contact. A plunger that is over extended and near its upper range of travel may not be able to maintain zero lash as engine temperature changes. This can increase engine noise, and it may even cause the plunger to hammer against the snap ring causing it to fail. A hydraulic lifter plunger may also become over extended if an engine has sticking valves or excessive wear in the valvetrain. It can only take up so much slack before it runs out of adjustment.

hydraulic lifters- i would think that opening up the feed holes could possibly be a negative thing anyway as they use oil to take up the "slack", if you increase flow, the oil could potentially leak back out of the lifters easier? on old turd pushrod things, at high rpm the lifters can pump up, and hold the valves open. my white car has this problem sometimes. this info may or may not be relevant, but might explain why theres not much oil flow, and not a whole lot of pressure in the oem setup

Yup that's ideal if you can line those holes up

They have to be secured to the hub with a single countersunk bolt, wheels have to locate on the center spigot, wheel bolts screw in 7.5 turns , can be certified

First trip done. VG tows it better on the open road than pootling around town, no mirrors or power steering or power brakes is a little bit challenging for maneuvering though. Got a bit of a list of things that could be improved/finished

Legalities sorted Got it re reg with the original black plate, emailed nzta with some pics and a bit of a blurb that it was my grandads and was in the Lilliput book etc etc, they replied the next day with "yeah sweet as" Went to VTNZ and they had to ring NZTA to sort it but it was very easy and straight forward

Last time I had distributor problems n the VG I just rock autoed a early 90s dodge truck dizzy and combined that with a msd street fire box it's been trouble free. Due to more compression I had to mess around with the advance weights a bit

Egr delete made a big difference in fuel economy on my little Toyota van

Faded/dull clear coat It has not bubbled or lifted yet but it's not far off Is there any magic jizz that restores this back to concours perfection? Or does a half decent job of slowing the inevitable march of time and deterioration? Or should I spend my time on more productive things

If it's a new style tag with photos- possibly If it's an older engraved plate that just says it's a bedford camper - probably not

Is it top or bottom ball joint that has run out of travel? Side note, going from 6 stud to 4 is likely going to be problematic for cert

The one with the red circles is the original one that I failed for poor casting The original pic is of a replacement upright that "is definitely not welded" Everyone I have shown the pic to says its welded I, 100% think it's welded based on what I can see in the pic The guy maintains its fine and just looks like that because he scotchbrited it Unfortunately because it's a cast suspension part, welding = no Bueno

There is a hole in that part, the coilover mounts to it

I'd be interested to hear anyone's opinions on this... It's a suspension upright

I always paint mine. I use BBQ paint from bunnings. Lasts very well

If it's just got a coat of black on it, usually ok and don't need to see it in the nude If it was getting filler or powdercoat then need to see it first You can usually see if a weld is OK thru regular paint

Have been asked twice by wof guys if different colour matters It doesn't, but it would be better if you can do the final cert pics when it's all done so you don't have to deal with that It is a cert requirement to paint any modified areas so your suspension and chassis etc will need to be painted with something for cert

Yep they can be tack welded together, if the weld is not doing anything apart from holding the 2 bits together for assembly, preventing someone from putting it together incorrectly by a spacer going missing If a weld is transmitting any brake load though, different story

No worries. Makes sense to use someone that's not 4 hours drive away haha

I've done one car with those , I would think they are probably very similar quality wise to yellowspeed/xyz/d2 etc Ie, for a road car, ok Making sure the bump stop limits travel before the front upper ball joint hits the body is probably the main thing to look out for

There was probably thousands of utes sold new from dealers with lift kits that didn't comply I went to a large dealer once to cert a vehicle that had big wheels or something, it also had strut spacers and longer shackles . I told them I had to cert those as well, and it had problems which meant it couldn't be certed as it was Apparently the supplier of the parts had told them that they didn't need cert so there was a whole lot of utes new from the dealer which weren't legal because of 3 year wofs, it didn't come up as a problem and I think if the dealer was doing the wof and service it doesn't get picked up for ages Then it gets taken to a different place for a wof, knocked back and they ring me saying "there's been a rule change and now I need a fuckin cert, it's bullshit, it's been that way since new and it's fine"

20 years would probably be sensible then it would align with 20+ yo cars not needing to meet standards for importing etc