cletus

i dont know wether stainless is better from a noise reduction view but it would last longer. the bigger the better though- the larger the muffler,( body size not pipe diameter) the more packing it has and the better it can absorb the noise. i tested mine when i replaced the muffler, it had a flowmaster 50 series on it which turned out to be too restrictive, the stainless one is oval, 3''perf tube inside, with just a kink in it, you can see right thru it. it was exactly the same with both mufflers.

how quiet do you want it? ive built several exhausts, having the most effective muffler at the end of the exhaust gives it the 'smoothest' sound, having a long unmuffled tailpipe makes it 'cackly' stainless dumpy mufflers or your typical cannon mufflers are shit, unless its a flash high end japanese brand. having a turbo helps shut it up a lot, and 2.5" instead of 3" will also be good for not being stupidly noisy. if you want it reasonably quiet, a coby in the middle and a super-turbo style triple pass muffler at the back would be my suggestion my car has a 3" system with a big ish stainless packed straight thru muffler under the rear seat, then a long coby just before the bumper, and thats reasonably quiet for what it is

protip- when using a torque wrench, stop leaning on it when it goes 'click' every tyre shop i go to, the tyre shop monkeys are all OMG MUST USE TORQUE WRENCH OR WHEELS WILL FALL OFF, when it goes click they keep leaning on it/give it another 1/8th of a turn. if they arent going to pay any attention to the correct torque setting, just use a rattlegun or a powerbar to snap the studs off with.

from the commercials pic thread; when i did my one, the donor navara chassis was a long wheel base so i was going to have to cut it anyway. putting terrano body on a swb chassis= have to make body mounts and fuel tank mounts putting navara front clip on the front = have to cut and join chassis, cut terrano suspension out of the back and make some other rear suspension work if i did it all again id probably use a swb 2wd chassis and chop the body mounts off the terrano chassis, and make or swap the terrano gas tank mounts onto it. you could even make some of your money back by putting a navara cab on the terrano chassis- 4x4 ute for cheaps

as long as it doesnt ever hit anything, (allowing for movement in mounts as well) and it should be mounted in a way that if the engine mount were to fail, the engine cant move far enough to jam the steering. this can be quite tricky- many 1uz conversions have issues with this due to the head/exhaust manifold usually being quite close to steering shafts in hiluxes etc

a bit on the small side for going thru a panel steel floor stolen from lvv forum: Where it is not practicable to attach a drive-shaft safety loop to a chassis or sub-frame rail, or rigid cross-member, it should be attached to the vehicle floor using doubler plates which have a minimum mating area of 3000 square mm, and are as close to square as can be practically achieved. i usually suggest using 50x50 square washers for each bolt just cause its easy to explain/write down

cheers Dane! Andy- if it needs to be there because of a modification then it can be covered by the lvv cert, ie if its been cut out to make room for the engine or trans. as long as its safe, etc otherwise it would have to be fixed to the repair cert standards.

spring washers or nylocs are fine, the rules dont actually mention a lockwasher or anything on the driveshaft loop bolts

No, cant weld to a casting or a forging. Is it for a brake caliper bracket? Could you bolt it to the spindle?

Made some progress- worst of the rust all done, just got a couple of little patches in the floor to do now. also strengthened the welding around the front upper arm mounts, these things are prone to cracking there. then threw some paint on, that turned out to be an abortion, got some "chassis black" that turned out to be quite glossy= looked like shit. so i thought id improve it by spraying some satin black over the top, wrong move, mustve breathed too many paint fumes today. it dried faster than the first layer and went all wierd now it looks ultra shit. dunno what to do there/might leave it cause its not showcar anyway rust, begone from this place! homemade sandblasting mask

50x5mm is minimum size. lol at diy data plate. have seen a few skylines/cefiros etc with a "T" scratched into the tag after the engine number "nah bro its a factory det bro doesnt need certz"

the ones ive seen ( not that many, probably 2 or 3) have had rb25 on the data plate. same with the autech pulsars ive done, they get picked up at compliance because the data plate doesnt match the engines in them. i havnt seen any with the correct engine number on the data plate, thats not to say they dont exist, because then it wouldnt need a cert/i wouldnt get to see it. have you seen one with rb26 on the data plate?

4x M10 or 3/8. if you are bolting thru a panel steel floor then you will need big washers on the topside of the floor.

trd stuffs= would need cert even if fitted at the dealer. ive done heaps of estimas/boring cars with electric swing out seats, these are fitted by a toyota company (TECS) and are sold new from toyota dealers like that, but because they werent actually made by toyota they need certing. same with some nissans, those rb26 powered stageas, some pulsar 4x4s fitted with sr20s, all done by a company called Autech porsche rollcages= if you fitted a factory cage to one, it would need auth card. a new one factory optioned i believe would be ok without because its oe equipment. would have to find out to be 100% on that though.....

some extra strength would be a good idea. You need a motorsport authority card to run a full cage in a unibody road car. if it was me id decide what sort of motorsport you are going to do and get hold of the regs for that and build the cage to suit. TBH im not that clued up on cage specs, as far as a cert goes we are more concerned with the interior impact side of things rather than the cage construction, the authority card covers that. unfortunately rear passengers are a no go with a cage, ive looked into that for someone else who wanted to take kids for skids in a race car and it couldnt be done......

theres nothing saying you cant in the rule book. Not a good idea though, best to put it under the car at the back to keep away from heat etc

got some time to work on this masterpiece of commercial vehicles pulled front sheetmetal off, borrowed a waterblaster and cleaned 40 years of crap off the underside of it, and started patching some rust this bit was slightly rotten

is the navara chassis a short wheelbase?

Frost Green metallic- close to what you want? http://paintref.com/paintref/index.shtml

make a grille that comes off easy? " i always remove it when my lights are on, officer"

nah not legal, cant have anything covering the headlights....

Who is it?

anyone know what its like over other old paint?- enamels, acrylic, problems with fry ups etc

if its a fuel pump weak/flow issue, it will accelerate normally for a bit then start cutting out, as it takes some time to drain the carb bowl

Anyone used this stuff? was talking to an old bloke that swears by it, reckons its waterproof and doesnt even need a topcoat, can spray on bare steel. Also, whats a miracle product i can spray on the inside of a rusty panel that i cant get into to clean up, that will stop rust and make my vehicle last forever? PA10?