cletus

they look like they would come loose a lot- a bolt to pivot on at the engine mount and a bolt to pivot on where it attaches on to the crossmember

not really, should be fume proof, that bit by the spare wheel would need sealing up

mod LCA could be ok if its mild steel channel type arm,done well, TIG'd, crack tested. however, you would still have to comply with the camber rule of no more than 1/2 degree over oe spec unless its a motorsport vehicle with authority card. shortened knuckles will be a no go if they are cut and welded cast or forged.

ordinarily, doing that would be fine if done properly. only problem in your case, is the tank is inside the passenger compartment i believe? which is fine if it is factory, but as soon as you modify it, it has to comply with LVV rules- then you would have to seal the tank area off from the passenger compartment

exhaust glowing red is also a sign of retarded timing

Other T3 stuff i have seen seems to be of a good quality.

those struts would fall foul of commandment number 2, "Thou shalt Not make a Weld to thine material made of Cast or Forged metals, when the Part is associated with Steering or Suspending a Motorcar."

wof check is not required. some certifiers ask for a wof checksheet before they will do an inspection- its because part of a cert check is to check all the wof items like lights belts etc etc, as well as the parts that have been modified- if there is a wof sheet less than 14 days old then we dont have to check those things. personally i think its a bit of a cop-out to rely on someone else to check that stuff and ask a customer to spend another $40 or whatever on an inspection they are going to fail and possibly not get everything done before the wof recheck date. plus i always check safety related stuff regardless, you would be surprised what some wof inspectors miss- things like worn tie rod ends and perished brake hoses are quite common- i dont want to be doing a road test and something shit itself cause i relied on someone else to say it was ok as far as getting hold of me to make a booking, give me a ring during the week- 0274 522 049 mention you are from here so you get your complimentary mint slice* *while stocks last

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cant imagine that ever working well with a carb on that manifold

havnt seen a set of those. For what car?

if you loosen the bolts on the retaining plate slightly does it get easy to turn again? id do as mentioned, see if the cam has made any marks on the plug. if thats not whats binding, maybe its the new cam running on an un worn section of the cam bearings? cam bearings can be a bit of a challenge to press in right/get cam turning perfect

Probably not relevant to the general users of this forum, but someone might know someone building a hot rod etc and considering using a new aftermarket column. Theres some dangerous cheap china crap being sold....one of which failed completely leaving the car with no steering. luckily that happened at low speed. http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2013_Unsafe_Aftermarket_Steering_Columns.pdf

znoelli ones are usually ok. such a weird name. i wonder how much business they miss out on cause people cant spell it

yep, theres a couple of other things to look at with adapters- narrower ones like 15mm sometimes dont have enough material under the taper of the nut or under the head of the stud. from that point of view yours look ok as the nut sticks out heaps another thing i find a lot with cheapy chinaspacers is the taper of the nut doesnt match the taper of the adaptor- and the nut thread sometimes isnt machined parallel with the taper so the nut is slightly on the piss, all this leads to the nuts coming loose eventually

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/17433-for-questions-regarding-wofscertsnumber-plates/page-95

yep no worries, as its really only designed as a bumper holder upper rather than a crash slower downer

as far as cerferoes go, the lowest i usually cert them at is 310-320 in the front (depends on rims/tyres) and 300 in the back. other certifiers may have different ideas on that. they start to handle like poo any lower than that, the rear toe change over a bump gets quite noticeable if that falken sheet says that size is fine, all is good. older pre frontal impact requirement cars dont need to worry about cutting up bumper irons

better than some of the "panel shops" up here keep up the good work

sweet car. will be cool with those triples and rocker cover etc may i suggest loading up that cam with break in lube before you put its pants back on

I GOT 99 PAGES, CERT PROBLEMS ON EACH ONE Redrilling 4 to 6 would be fine if theres enough thickness under the stud head

you can, depends on the design as to how it would have to be done. Whatever you do, it would need to be certified. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/37800-welded-strut-how-to/

nice work!

It is still valid, if you have a 2 piece shaft then its usually no good because they are short sections, the loop needs to be at the front of the shaft. that 150mm measurement is only the MAX distance from the u-joint, you can go closer to it, that might make it easier?