cletus

also, saw a pic of a pacer on wide black steels that i liked, so i had the wheels powdercoated black, swapped tyres over again, bullet wheel nuts and no hubcaps. Uploaded with ImageShack.com

my boss has one of those little batterys, also has piddly little connectors, i didnt believe it would work either. cranks over a blown 400+cube v8 no problem

cool will keep that in mind, cheers

went to the drags again, boost at 10psi now, did a 12.4@110mph. pulled axles to check splines and the lh one is just starting to show signs of twisting next plan is to do some suspension tuning, it gets a big lean on hard launches, might look at making some caltrac style traction bars

have seen one model of recaro seat bracket that needed bigger bolts to cope with belt buckle loading. most of them are ok though

you have to have a motorsport authority card to run them on a road car legally

have you tried stainless packing? have seen it for sale at supercheap

last one of those i did, when i filled out the paperwork i wrote it was not necessary or possible to fit loops due to the design of the chassis, it went through fine as for compliance for american cars- north shore compliance on porana rd are pretty good, or western compliance on westward ho rd in kelston- talk to Mooks hes a good bloke or C&P motors in grey lynn

Cant see a problem if that area of the strut tower is strong enough, which it should be. Will need TAC approval and a 1D certifier to do it, however.

i asked that same question at a training session, and i think the answer was along the lines of "if its not being certed we dont have to worry about it." as far as i know most vehicles that have the strut constructed that way have a replaceable insert so aftermarket complete struts are not that common. its not mentioned in the wof book so i doubt it would be a wof fail issue

that sir, is correct.

i get what you mean, and there are thousands of struts worldwide that are modified like that and have not failed however, lvvta have made it a blanket rule the same for all situations recently there was some testing done on a commonly available aftermarket strut for hondas with a welded on cast arm. it failed the first test, (something to do with the welding affecting the casting in the area it was welded on) the manufacturer modified the welding process and another one was tested and still failed. at this point the importer gave up cause they dont sell a heap of them anyway if a factory strut fails, its the vehicle manufacturers fault, as soon as a modified strut is fitted and certified, the certifier takes responsibility if there is a problem- not the strut modifier or manufacturer

see above

rego status? if its dereg you probably will need to get a repair cert done, if reg on hold its up to the wof inspector as to whether its good enough, wof man can ask for a report from a panelbeater if they have doubts about the repairs. repair does not have to be done by a panel shop welding the cruiser mounts on should be fine if done properly

when i started my apprenticeship, the mechanic had one that had a burnt valve and half the side was in primer, i can remember thinking " thats fucked for such an expensive late model car" at the time they were on yards for 12-14k looks tidy, rear spoiler appears to be pretty straight- i remember them getting wobbly looking fairly quickly

if you were butt welding a join/notch section, yes it would need fish plates, but the traditional way of doing a step notch like that doesnt need them as it overlaps the rail and acts like a fish plate itself- usual way to do it is weld on the side plates, weld insides to rail as well, cap the top, cut out rail, cap the bottom. pic looks ok, one of the biggest cockups i see with that style of notch is making it too big "cause i might bag it on 24'' rims one day", bumpstop needs to limit travel before anything else hits like diff head, driveshaft, or shocks bottoming out etc

does not have to be a ticketed welder, different certifiers will have differing opinions on doing a notch the right way so best to chat to the cert man you plan on using. are you just doing a small 'c'notch in the rail?

yep 2'' blocks fine without a cert, 2-3'' needs cert and must have additional support. usually too much hassle to do that sucessfully, easier to get springs reset.

probably something broke/fell off inside the box and got jammed between the crownwheel and housing- then escaped? have had that happen before, doing skids on mates farm, broke diff, changed it when half cut later that evening in the dark, some of the broken diff parts had poked holes in the diff housing which i didnt notice till the next day

ive got a supercheap tape measure you can borrow should be right

exhaust wont be listed on the cert plate, unless theres a structural mod to fit it. probably wont have been certed for the exhaust, as lance doesnt like doing it, he gets me to do a few of his noise test ones, plus you would have been charged more for it ($200-$250)

this. single leaf doesnt have enough strength to locate diff proper like no reason why you couldnt do it if you convert to a link style rear suspension however

which part of the rule says that?