cletus

i use copper nickel stuff , im sure it didnt cost that much. i buy it from autostop. its much nicer to work with- easy to bend, you can do it with your thumbs, or round a socket works well

2'' probably a bit small for a turbo engine, id go 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 stock exhaust will 'work' but it will restrict how much power it can make

i like skids. so when i get the chance to do skids without fear of license removal, i grasp that opportunity.

yep thats him

we used to use these guys at my old work, and he was very helpful when i built my last engine, he priced up fixing the heads i had and it was cheaper to buy some new alloy ones. he then went over the new heads i bought and specced a cam and valvesprings to suit the combination. cant remember the cost but i thought it was very reasonable for what he did and supplied, especially after not fixing the heads i originally had. he still has the same guy working for him as when i started my apprenticeship in 1996

That is te reason te certifier has to check and make sure it has been returned to original correctly, sometimes the vehicle does need to be re certed for other remaining modifications

as far as removing stuff that has been certed, it depends on what it is. if the car is returned to OE a certifier can check the car is oe, remove the plate, send it back to LVVTA who remove the modification off the NZTA database. i met Petra Bagust once cause i had to take a cert plate off one of her cars. BETTER WORK STORIES

if you go by the absolute letter of the law, any mods to suspension parts like that should be tig welded and crack tested. However, i have certed quite a few struts modified as per the link ie just a sleeve welded on to the original strut, and ive never had one knocked back by LVVTA. IMO the weld in that situation does not have a lot of load on it for the size of the weld, so its not super critical, as opposed to a strut welded at the base which has steering/braking forces and weight bearing on the welded join

yes you can remove seats, you dont need to cert it either.

if it was built before 31/10/1979 then it doesnt need any belts in the back. if the center rear belt has factory anchorages (ie belts were a factory option) then you should be right, if not then it would need cert. or take it out

emailed lvvta about this, reply was this: Hi Clint The only company that is actively trying to meet the requirements in the Infosheet is BC (Redline Performance); however they’ve come up against a few hurdles, and at this stage nobody has the approval status. I’d say if they’ve got through, the certifier probably just hasn’t picked it up. If you’re able to find out who the certifier is, let me know so I can give them a friendly reminder. Regards

front panels all primered also put a msd coil and ignition in it, now it runs a lot better. took it for a drive the other day, got the stink eye from a middle age lady in a fancy car, good job

what are you going to do for a diff and brakes, good sir?

i thought about doing something similar, but figured the wheels on the dolly would have to "steer" with the car on, otherwise the only way to get round a corner is for the tyres to drag/skid

how does it turn with a car on it?

so after checking axle lengths, and deciding narrowing the diff was too hard, i attacked the guards with a hammer & dolly. Rh side was easy. Lh side was like i thought it was going to be, it already had old repairs and bog in it, so it needs a bit of work. good part is the tyres fit with enough room.

yep 245/50/14

not sure how high with those tyres yet, the guard is sitting on the tyre and stopping it going down to the proper height

tried wheel on now its lowered, front is good...... back not so much. rub city. oops

got stupid rusty door done

all the wire wheels ive seen have had no brand name or markings on them, all wheels should be from a reputable manufacturer or have a safety standard marking, like JWL, DOT etc for cert purposes. wire wheels need cert because of the adaptor required to fit them

a 'c' notch can be certed, maximum size depends on the car and application.

Those front struts would be no good unfortunately. At the moment, no aftermarket strut that has a welded join between the cast spindle and the strut tube can be certed. LVVTA is working on this, not sure where they are at, but welded BC struts may be legal in the near future, i think they were waiting on some details to do with the welding process. as far as the rear goes, there is some strengthening needs to be done on a starlet if going to a coilover in the rear where the shock was mounted, the shock mount isnt strong enough to take the weight of the car as well.

ha. someone gave me a vk once, it had a rebuilt starfire with a lumpy cam and a weber on it. can remember wondering why someone would bother. it actually went ok ish