cletus

http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Wheels_&_Tyres.pdf 2.3 ( 8 ) may be another option for you- if you can strip all the tyres off the rims

as long as it is strong enough then i cant see an issue. the one in that pic has probably had a bit much cut out. if you are not going to adjust the camber as positive as that big bit cut out towards the guard allows, i wouldnt cut it that far. first page in this thread has one done tidily //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/29805-mikeys-240z-golly-gosh/

some info that might help http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_05-2011_Rear_Suspension_Radius_Rod_Geometry.pdf

are you making something like this?

have you spoken to a certifier about what you plan on doing? a ladder bar rear on a street car is a bit of a disaster waiting to happen. if it is a true ladder bar style you wont need that style of joint as they dont articulate very much anyway

yep have had that done to me- failed cert for light on or not working, guy fixed it, i asked him how he fixed it, he told me hed repaired the loom, so i removed the oil pressure wire and it came on again. PLEASE EXPLAIN

i cant see any problem with using them. ive passed heaps of cars with those lock collars fitted

there isnt a rule about how low an exhaust can be. however it still must be safe to drive etc....this means if it bottoms out all the time under normal driving then that would fail

keeper can go above the spring. all adj platform suspension has something to stop the spring binding on the strut or moving off the spring seat, unless its some huckery home made thing

nah that has been changed, you can run solid engine mounts with a rubber gbox mount now, it has been changed in the hobby car manual but not in that ^ standard a urethane mount would still be defined as a flexible mount

you cant weaken the structure of the door so you wouldnt be able to go too mental with the holesaw around the door frame, like near the hinges or catch etc

heres the engine and drivetrain standard. it doesnt tell you specifically how to make a gbox xmember but it is what we have to go off when checking the car. http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Engine_&_Drive-train_Conversions.pdf

yes needs cert, and its harder than it used to be due to needing to check for any change in steering geometry- bump steer etc

i just re read it and i sound like someones dad haha FORGOT IT WAS A 4AGE, IT NEEDS ALL THE HELP IT CAN GET PUHUHUHU

i think you need to look at how you will be using the car most of the time. people get all hung up on making max power when you might only need max power 5% of the time. a 3'' exhaust on a 1600 might be annoying the other 95% of driving you do. i get it all the time at work- rotaries that get green stickered for too much noise but they dont want to get rid of their twin 2 1/2 into single 3'' dumpy muffler cause it makes more power. no point having another 15 hp if you cant drive it because you get hassled by the law every time you drive it

they dont look too bad, pretty much the same design as all the china arms for those cars the quality of the joint is usually the downfall of cheaper arms, they sometimes dont last very long at all. these are more likely to last well http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/suspension-braces/auction-654634650.htm

cant see what fitting it has at the caliper end. but the main things are you need to make sure the hose cant pull tight /rub/catch on anything thru full susp travel and steering lock, and be supported where it attaches to a hardline. so it doesnt necessarily need a strut bracket if you can achieve that,and if the end that attaches to the caliper is designed to go straight on the caliper, ie a banjo fitting or a straight screw in one. if you have a short hardline off the caliper then a hose then you will need a bracket.

if it works on the right angle, an old spark plug with something welded up the end of it to hit the piston works well- turn engine by hand till it stops against the plug- mark pulley- turn the other way till it stops- mark pulley- halfway between your 2 marks is tdc

have a look back thru this thread theres a lot of writing about welding and struts and forgings and castings. if mazda welded it then you wont need to crack test it

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/approvals.html#about they meet once a month i think

i cant find anything official, that says you cant drive it all the time if it has an authority card

what yowzer said. it may not happen if the disc is fat enough, but it would still be considered 'untradesmanlike' to do such a thing. unlegit.

1. you will need a cert for #3 so your engine mod/swap will be covered at the same time 2. there is no law regarding engine induction noise. 3. brake swap will need cert 4. may as well get that done as well to save yourself hassles 5. ideally you should have it set up correctly before the cert. if you change the springs afterwards and they are still captive etc then nobody would know as the spring rate etc is not listed on the cert plate 6. if its hardwired into the car and not a gps speedo then that is fine 7.i had a quick look in the wof online manual and couldnt find anything that says you have to have a demister

you will need a cert for what you plan on doing, best to chat to a certifier in your area who does bikes so you do it how they want it done.