cletus

correct, no fouling of anything throughout the whole range of suspension travel is allowed

either would be fine, might be better to do between the block and mount bracket if the mount has a stud poking out where it goes thru the crossmember, as you may run out of thread length by the time you fit a nyloc/washer/spring washer combo

yes you can Permitted equipment1. One or two reversing lamps fitted at the rear of the vehicle. 2. A retrofitted pair of reversing lamps must be symmetrically mounted as far towards each side of the vehicle as is practicable. Condition3. A reversing lamp must be in good condition. Performance4. A reversing lamp must operate in a way that is appropriate for the lamp and the vehicle. 5. A reversing lamp, when operated, must emit a diffuse light or a dipped beam of light that is substantially white (Note 3). 6. A reversing lamp must emit a steady light. 7. A reversing lamp may operate only when the reverse gear is engaged or the headlamps are turned off. 8. Where a reversing lamp comprises an array of light sources (eg LEDs), at least 75% of these must operate. Modifications9. A reversing lamp that is affected by a modification: a) must meet equipment, condition and performance requirements, and does not require LVV specialist certification.

got the heads back and put the rest of the engine back together.

and then theres the 302 boss engine, that was a windsor with clevo heads http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boss_302_Mustang

the requirements for welding of a suspension are in the hobby car manual. the way i read it, rear suspension parts can be mig welded and it doesnt require crack testing. there are 2 different classifications in the book for welding- critical and non critical. critical is tig/crack test, non critical can be tig/mig/arc and no crack test needed page 6-33 in the HCM has the relevant rule

make sure you have a look at the welding on the bar before you buy it, i had a vk the other week the guy had to get it re welded- it had a new aftermarket adjustable bar, but the welding was super average china spec i think it was a whiteline one. otherwise, hooray!

how much $ did they want for a rebuild?

yep NZV8, theres a red monaro on the cover Pistons are now 16 thou below deck height, 1.755 comp height, it had a 30thou cut off the top. as it stands now it works out at 9.35-1 not sure yet if the heads will need a skim. 10 thou off the heads will put it at 9.56-1

got the block back, ended up with a bit more doing to it than originally planned. block tanked, bored, decked, rods resized, crank bead blasted and journals polished, all balanced. state of play at the end of today= also, this happened. photography was done by Richard/Snoozin, jolly good show old chap.

fuel lines= if they are factory, the original clips are fine, even if gaps are greater than 300mm. when the fuel lines are modified = clips every 300 minimum, can be spaced closer than that

interesting that it made that much more power with a carb, what manifold and carb did you use?

I would think this is probably the reason, to avoid some sort of certification type process to get an approval marking, like japanese wheels have JWL on them, or american ones have DOT, etc...

yes they usually make good quality bits. hard to say the name though

15mm adaptors are always a bit of a drama. either the nut is too shallow, so it doesnt comply with the minimum thread engagement rule of 'same as thread diameter', or there isnt enough material left under the nut taper and they warp/are not strong enough. 20mm ones always seems to work out easier. you can trim the stud if it sticks out past the face of the adaptor. you wouldnt be able to machine the rim. i hate adaptors. theres so many china ones around with shitty nuts that the taper doesnt match, or the taper is machined not parallel with the thread.....

sounds fine if you are following the rules for wheel spacers. nzed would know better than me about the material spec so that will be ok

ive never seen that written on them before, and ive had a few sets. i would wager that they are exactly the same as a regular casting, and that wording is some sort of arse covering exercise by the manufacturer. like KK said, your option is to find a greybeard that worked at cheviot or knows why the wording was added and see if you have any joy there. the other possibility is to get them approved by the TAC, maybe if you could prove they are the same as one that doesnt have the writing on it, ie same casting thickness and material, they could be approved for use on the road. if you want to pursue that you need to email justin@lvvta.org.nz hes the guy that organises the TAC meetings. or just get some wheels that dont have the writing on them. slotted wheels can be used, if they comply with 2.3 (2) in here http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Wheels_&_Tyres.pdf good luck, tridens are the ultimate in wheels, im not sure why anyone bothered making any other style of wheel after perfection was achieved, haha

one point of this whole project, which is quite contradictory to boat ownership (and we are probably dreaming) is to spend very little on this thing. my brother doesnt have much spare cash (3 kids) and wants to spend most of the spare fun coupons on his car anyway. selling not an option yet, grandpa gave it to us and he would get the shits if we turned around and flicked it off to make $$. hes one of those old buggers who thinks everyone is out to get his valuables te bro is an engineer so we can fix the trailer no problem have already suggested a turbo TD27 with a straight pipe over the back as a volvo replacement. kind of want a rugged boat version of my old valiant. no cabin, flat black, too loud, shitbox looking thing, the opposite of what boaters usually want ha, should put a crappy rb20 with china turbo, RBNAVY REPREZENT

i run an aeromotive boost referenced reg and a single 044 bosch pump. it works just fine and dandy. it is pretty loud, especially when the fuel level is getting low it heats up a bit. if i did it again i would go efi from the start i think. theres a lot more parts and knowledge around. http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/aei-13202/overview/

ha. i dont even get that excited about boatery. every time i go on one, something bad happens. like the time i went on the ferry to waiheke and one engine shit itself and they couldnt steer it into the wharf or the other time when i was on the ferry and it hit the wharf so hard the guy with the motorbike fell over and broke his clutch lever or the other time when a mates dad bought a little boat and wanted to go for a test run, and i didnt want to go, but they convinced me, and it turns out the steering was backwards so it nailed the rock wall by the boat ramp. i was relieved because i expected him to stop. but he did not. and we ended up in the middle of mangere harbour doing half donuts while mates dad got used to wrong way steering. eventually it got water in the motor from doing half spins and wouldnt go any more. so we had to drift back to the wrong boat ramp cause the tide was going out and walk back to the car. then go back to my mates place and get a long rope to pull the boat over the 100 meters of soft mud with razor sharp feet slicing rocks under it exposed by the low tide. (mangere bridge for you local daves) or the time i went for a ride in a wakeboarding boat and the owner decided to do some barefoot skiing, and fell off the pole and dislocated his shoulder.

heres another thing to spend time on. Me and my brother got given this I dont know squat about boats. Dont even know what year it would be. I do know its 20 ish foot long, it has a 140hp volvo stern drive thing which doesnt run. Its been sitting around for years- my grandpa swapped a porsche 356 for it probably 25-30 years ago. i remember going on it once when i was a kid, pop said he had a lot of trouble with the engine, he pulled the head off for some reason and its been sitting since then. First job will be a set of tyres and probably some wheel bearings, and a new drawbar on the trailer so we can get it to my brothers place in whitianga. the bottom bit is fiberglass, the top is wood which appears to be quite rotten in places, so due to budget restraints, it may end up a very simplified version with a new top bit but no cabin or it may just rot at his house instead of grandpas, lol anybody with boat knowledge, feel free to enlighten me with your wisdom

there are bazillions of words about this, it would take me a week to write it all down. But basically it can be done if it complies with the rules in the hobby car manual. here are the rules about when a car is classed as scratchbuilt or not http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_02-2013_New_SB_&_Mod_Prod_LVV_definitions.pdf rx7 body on a hilux chassis= would be a new scratchbuilt vehicle, not a modified hilux

no problem to do that on a ute as long as you are only cutting through non structural bits of body

its not on the list of things you can do without a cert so it would need to be certified. you can fit air shocks without cert but it doesnt mention anything about airbag helper kits. aside from that its not a good idea to remove leaves and use the helper bag to hold up the weight, it will probably end up with axle tramp issues

brake pedal has to be 1 piece. its a bit of a problem with escorts as a lot of cheap aftermarket pedal boxes dont comply due to the design of the pedal. book doesnt mention specifically how the pedal box has to be constructed, the main thing would be making sure its fit for purpose. the book says it must be made in a way that does not result in total loss of brake control if any individual component fails or be made by a reputable company like tilton, wilwood, etc